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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 

1980 


Technical  Notes  /  Notes  techniques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Physical 
featurr/S  of  this  copy  which  may  alter  any  of  the 
images  in  the  reproduction  are  checked  below. 


D 
D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couvertures  de  couleur 


Coloured  maps/ 

Carter  gdographiques  en  couleur 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Certains 
ddfauts  susceptibles  de  nuire  d  la  quality  de  la 
reproduction  sont  notds  ci-dessous. 


n 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 


Coloured  plates/ 
Planches  en  couleur 


Tl 

P« 
of 
fil 


Ji 
cc 
or 
ap 

Th 
fil 
ini 


D 
D 


Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  ddcolordes,  tachetdes  ou  piqu^es 


Tight  binding  (may  cause  shadows  or 
distortion  along  interior  margin)/ 
Reliuk  >  3err6  (peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou 
de  la  dit.*ortion  le  long  de  la  marge 
intdrieuro^ 


D 


D 


Show  through/ 
Transparence 


Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 


M 
in 
up 
be 
fol 


D 


Additional  comments/ 
Commentaires  suppl6mentaires 


Bibliographic  Notes  /  Notes  bibliographiques 


n 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 


n 


Pagination  incorrect/ 
Erreurs  de  pagination 


PagHS  missing/ 
Des  pages  manquent 


D 
D 


Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


Plates  missing/ 

Des  planches  manquent 


D 


Maps  missing/ 

Des  cartes  gdographiques  manquent 


0 


Additional  comments/  Autograph  presentations  precede  title  page. 

Commentaires  suppldmentaires 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  rexemplaire  filmd,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche  shall 
contain  the  symbol  —^(meaning  CONTINUED"), 
or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"),  whichever 
appiies. 

The  original  copy  was  borrowed  from,  and 
filmed  with,  the  kind  consent  of  the  following 
institution: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaltra  sur  la  der- 
nidre  image  de  chaque  microfiche,  selon  le  cas: 
le  symbole  — •►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE".  le  symbole 
y  signifie  "FIN". 

L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grfice  it  la 
gdndrositd  de  I'dtablissement  prdteur 
suivant  : 

Bibliothdque  nationalc  du  Canada 


Maps  or  plates  too  large  to  be  eitirely  included 
in  one  exposure  are  filmed  beginning  in  the 
upper  l«ft  hand  corner,  left  to  right  and  top  to 
bottom,  as  many  frames  as  required.  The 
following  diagrams  illustrate  the  method: 


Les  cartes  ou  les  planches  trop  grandes  pour  dtre 
reproduites  en  un  seul  clich6  sont  film^es  d 
partir  de  Tangle  supdrieure  gauche,  de  gauche  d 
droite  et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Le  diagramme  suivnnt 
illustre  la  mdthode  : 


1  2  3 


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IN 


NEWFOUNDLANI  ): 


With   a    Ilisroijv  of  EiNijland's  Oi.dkst  ( V)r>oxY 

Fjt(  M    1001    TO   1S05. 


15  Y 


s.  "r.  i)Avi«,  ivi.  j>. 

(  SJIONCJO.  ) 


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LANCASTER,    PA. 

'HIK  NKW  ERA  l'KJXTIN(;  UOVSll 

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S.  T.  DAVIS. 


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TO 

My  Vknkkahlk  Father , 
HENRY   DAVIS, 

WHO   I\    MIS    KKillTV-SECONl)    YKAIt 
IS   STII.fi 
TIIK    ARDKXT  SI'Oin'SMAN 
I'UOM    \V1H..»I    i    KARLV    LKAUNM:!)   TO    LOVR 
TIIIO    KOI)    .\XI»   (il'\, 
THIS    NAKUATIVK    IS    DKDICATKI) 
AS   A 
SLUJHT    KXI'RKSSION   OF   THK    FILIAL    \FFKCTION 
OF   TIFF    Al  Tlior. 


'y^m^ir^'^ 


PREFACE. 


INDFUL  of  tlic  time  and  i^aticnco  requirt'd  in  (iiHl- 
in<;'  out  a  very  littU'  al)Oiit  tins  j)i('tiiros(|ii('  islaiid 
l)(>foi'<'  scttino'  out  for  its  distant  slioros,  and  of 
.the  nnccrlainly  wliicli  surrounded  every  niove- 
nicnt  after  tlie  start  was  made,  as  w(dl  as  the  unneeessar3^  ex- 
j)ensc  inenrred  for  want  of  a  rrliahle  itinerary,  we  coneeived 
tlu'  idea  of  furnisliinnj  in  compact  form  just  tlu^  information 
our  party  was  most  anxious  to  secure,  and  only  obtained  at 
an  exorl>itant  price,  and  after  repeated  disjipjtointments. 

Our  liistorical  notes  were  largely  gathered  from  an  excellent 
little  work  entitled  ^'Newfoundland  as  it  is  in  1894,"  hy  the 
acknowledged  historian  of  the  Island,  Kev.  M.  Harvey,  of  St. 
John's,  whose  aj)pended  letter  explains  itself: 

St.  John's,  X.  F.,  December  lOtli,  18<U. 
I)i;.\i;  DocTOK   Davis  :~-T  am  veiy  miieh  ])leiis((l  to  learn  tliat  yon  intend 
j»ul»lisliin<i  an  aeeonnt  otyonr  experiences  in  Newronndland.     That  is  wliat 
we  want — to  make  the  country  known.     You  are  lieartily  A\ek'onu'   to  use 
my  book  in  any  way  you  ])lease,  and  to  any  extent. 

Sincerely  vours, 

M.  HARVEV. 

Most  of  the  illustrations  of  the  trip  were  made  from  i)hoto- 
graphs  taken  in  the  held  hy  the  author:  those  showing  the  speci- 
mens are  by  Mr.  B.  Frank  Saylor,  of  Lancaster.  The  heads 
were  monnted  by  Messrs.  A.  C.  Wood,  of  Tainted  Post,  New 
York,  and  George  Flick,  of  Lancaster.  A  glance  at  the  illus- 
trations themselves  is  sutticient  to  testify  to  the  faithful  work 
of  all  parties  engaged  upon  subjects  and  pictures. 

Careful  daily  notes  were  taken,  and  are  the  basis  of  the 
story  of  the  hunt,  which  is  rather  understated  than  overdrawn. 
If  anj^  brother  hunter  has  a  doubt  of  this  he  has  only  to  i)ro(it 
by  our  experience  and  try  it  for  himself.  If  this  little  work 
shall  encourage  otlun-  brain  workers  to  hud  rest  and  healthful 
recreation  in  this  iuteresting  region,  our  effort  will  not  have 
been  in  vain,  and  tluiir  pleasure  will  be  the  best  rtnvard  of 

The  Author. 


I 


-rfflBL-rr 


CONTENI^S. 

lV\(iK. 

C^HAPTKR    r.-lNTwonrcTiox 1) 

()u(in<;sa  NtctssitA  to  Iiiain  Workers — "('an't  AITonl  It  " — How 
to  Iv'aisc  the  Wind — 'riansimitc  Siiiokf  iiitoCIold   -Consolidate  tlie 
"Days   ( )1T  "    and  liave  Sonietliiiiji    to   Show     for    'I'lieiP — Lon;;er 
Life  and  More  in  It. 

CHAPTER  JI. — I'liYsicAL  Fkaturks  ok  Nfavkoundland     17 

Its  tieojira])liieal  Position — C'onii)anitive  Si/e — iMtnr— Coast  As- 
jM'et — The  Interior — .Monntain  Ciiains — Kivers  —  J^iiues  —  Ponds. 
I '.ays. 

CIIAITKR  III. — Fau^a  and  Flora  of  thk  Island 2(1 

Fauna:  Carihon  (tr  Iicindeer — Its  .Mijirations— P.ear,  Wolves  and 
Smaller  Animals — The  Newfonndland  J)o<i — His  I)ei;cm  laey. 
I'.ii'ds — Ptarmigan  —  I'lora:  l''(»rests  of  the  (iander,  Ilxjihtils  and 
Hnnd)er  Piver  J)istriets — Tind)er  and  Lnmher  ()|ierations — Herry- 
hearinj;  Plants. 

CHArTKR   IV.— TiiH  Fisiikuiks  ;{:{ 

Abundance  of  Trout  and  Salmon — "  No  I'ish  "  Except  the  Cod  in 

Native    Parlance Codlish   tlu^  Staple    Kxi»ort  —  Volume   of     the 

Ihisiness — A  Permanent  Industry — Ar(!tic  (Current  Slime  Feeds 
Small  Fishes,  They  Feed  the  Cod.  the  Cod  Feeds  Man-^Seal 
I'isheries — Slau<>hter  of  the  ''Harps" — The  Sealing  (iun — Dis- 
Distanee  Measured  by  ''Gunshot  " — Salmon — Herrinji; — Lobster. 

CHAPTER  W — A(;hici'lturk  in  Newfoundland 44 

The  Soil  Nc<i;leeted — False  Keprcsentiitions  as  to  its  Value — Diday 
in  Development  of  Interior — The  (ieolojiical  Survey  Sets  Thin<;s 
KMjj;ht— Fertile  Kiver  Valleys — Farm  Proilucts  in  lsj)l  —  Donu'stic 
Aiiimals. 

CHAPTER  YI.— Mineral  Resocrces 47 

The  First  Mines — Geolojiicjxl  Distribution  of  the  Copjier  Ores. 
Lead  Ore — CJyjisum  and  Marbles — Iron  I'yrites  Mine  on  Pilley's 
Island — Asbestos — Coal  Areas — i'etroleum. 

C 1 1 ARTER  YII . — Govern  MENT  and  Finances T);") 

Mode  of  (iovernment — Constitution — Powers  of  the  Govenmr. 
The  Le^islatuie  —  The  Supreme  C'ourt  —  Central  District  Court. 
(Quarter  Sessions — Ma<;istratcs — Failui(^  in  Administration — Com- 
mercial and  Financial  Slavery — A  (iloomy  View — From  IJoom 
to  Crash — The  Outlook — Tlunr  Hope  and  Prayer. 


Hi 


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6 


CONTKNTS. 


OIIAITKK   VIII.— INDICATION 04 

Acjidcmiis  Colleges  IMipil  'rtaclicis-  London  rnivcrsily 
Cciitic     .lubilfc  Sclntlarsliii> — Council  ol  lli^'lici'  IMucatioii. 

('HAITKU   JX.— Tkanspohtatiov (IS 

U'oiids  unknown  to  Ilarlv  Settlers— Scllisli  Tolicy  of  the  Motlicr 
Country- I'enees  and  Cliiiiineys  rrifliihited  -Kel'oi.ni  l»e^in.s  in 
1H1:J  i'irst  l»'oad  in  Is-.'.T—K'oad  (IraiiMn  1^:5-3— K'oad  I'.uild- 
iny  leads  to  Diseovciy  of  Minerals  ~\'isions  of  U'ailways  Loom- 
in;;  up — Sir  William  Wliileway's  Sehemc- I''iist  K'ailway  Con- 
tract in  1*^x1  —  l-'iist  Sod  Cut  —  In  tlie  Hands  of  a  Iveeeixcr. 
Clian;;i;  of  (Joveiinnent  and  K'ailway  .  tersion  —  Sir  William 
A^rain  at  tlio  Helm — A  New  Survey— .sortlier"  and  Western 
ii'ailway  —  K'ailway  IOxlcnsi(»n  means  moic  ( 'ommon  Roads  —  Mail 
liy  K'ailway  K'oiite  of  K'ailwa.s  — Newfoundland  no  L(tii;;('r 
an  Island. 


CIIAITi:i{    X.— Tin;  Ahokkjinks S4 

The  IJeothiks,  or  "  Ked  Indians" — Their  Condition  when  Dis- 
covered— A  Powerful  and  Warlike  Teople — A  Change  comes  over 
Their  Hreams  'i'heir  Decadence— The  K'acc  Ilxtinct — ^A  ^lelan- 
choly  I'ind  The  I'irst  White  Man  to  Si^iht  Newfoundland. 
White  Men  liand  on  the  Island — From  Eij^liteen  to  Two  JIundred 
Thousand. 

(MIArTKK  XI.— Prkparatioxs  for  thh  Tkii' Dl 

Too  Many  Caribou  in  Mr.  llollxrtson's  Article — Our  Friend  (Joes 
to  New  ^'ork  and  K'eturns  with  l'ui)ils  Dilated  — "  Kichard  Le 
I'.ulTe,  Hall's  IJay,  Notre  Dame  Bay,  N.  F."— The  Cree  Stove 
as  Anu'iided — Cooking;  I'tensils,  vU-.,  i)acke(l  in  Stove — 15aji- 
lia^i'c  Kestrietions — What  We  Carried — The  Medicine  Chest — (iuns 
and  Ammunilion — The  Protean  Tent. 

CHAPTER  XII.— From  Xkw  A^ohk  to  St.  John's 105 

}Iow  to  ffet  to  Newfoundland — Red  Cross  Line — The  Silvia 
and  Portia— Tinu'  'uvhle  and  Kates  of  Fare — No  Duty  and  Twenty 
Feet  for  Ba^i^^a^ie — Marchin;;  Orders — Mistake  No.  1 — On  I'.oard 
the  Portia — Oil"  to  the  North — Halifax — Fog  oil'  Cape  UMin — Away 
to  St.  John's. 


ClIAPTER  XIIL— The  Capital  and  Its  Skjiits 114 

At  St.  .Tohn's — The  Stars  and  Strii)s  l\aised  on  Our  Hotel — A 
Hos])ital»le  City — Mistake  No.  2 — (iame  Laws  of  Newfoundland. 
The  Stipendiary  Ma;;istrate — The  License — Purchasing  Supplies. 
i:ight  .Men  for  Twenty  Days— Two  Dollars  a  Day— "J)ry," 
Packing  for  Cache— Mistake  '  No.  ;{— K'uKher  "  the  only  Wear." 
Seeing  the  City — The  Narrows — A  Jiand-locked  Harbor — The  City. 
Kelative  J)istj'nce.s — TLe  Museum — The  Cathedral — Parliament 
House — (^uidi  V^idi. 


.ijiijat'ftiTf.^' 


IJ.ST  OF    Il.l.rSTIiA'I'lONS. 


CJIAI'TKH   XIV.— Oik  i ok  tiii;   Hint i:;? 

Noitliwiiid  '.'10  Miles  Mor»' — Airiviil  at  I'illc.v's  Islaiitl     Itown 
Hall's    I'.a.v     ill    llic   Nipkin  —  Mistake   N«».     I    'llolel    l,e    I'.iilTe. 


'The  ( iiiide  and  His  I'aiiiily — l'\»r\\ai<l   to  West  Pond 
"  ( Inih, ''  <»r  Tea  and  TultiiciMt — Our  ( 'aliin. 


I'.i"   Marsh. 


CHAITKU  XV.— KiaoKi)  of  tiik  IIint 1  17 

Tlie  Tallin — rurnitun' — Tliiitv-seven  CarilMmSeen  Tliouyli  K'ain- 
inj;  the  First  Day— The  "  i.ookoiits  "— Tlie  Doeto's  iniiid— Fresh 
Meat  I'l  tifnl' -"  Hidian  .lini  "— We  lU'^in  to  Seleet  lv'e|)re- 
sentative  Heads  The  Kid's  h'ed  I.ette.'  hay— "Kep"  Kills 
the  Wroii^  Deer — William  I'aul,  the  Mien.  ,  and  Family — Ciir- 
iiiji  the  Specimens —Killinji  at  Twenty  Fei  — Keji's  K'ed  Letter 
Day  -r.altle  of  the  Sta-s— The  "Kin'^'"-The  Doctor  Makes  a 
Ldiij;  Shot,  r.iit  (iets  Uroken  Antlers — The  "  Kniju'ror  " — Onr 
(^Miota  Nearly  i'illed — -Preparing-  Trophies  for  Transportation. 
"  I'.xhihition '*  Staji— 1 5ear  Tracks  Hack  to  Sail  Water  — N(»  Mail 
from  Home  -How  to  I'ack  Specimens — At  I'illey's  Islanil  Ajiain. 
We  want  to  (io  Homi — "  Ahle  Seamen  " — Mr.  Ke]iler  Collars  the 
Trajis  at  St.  .John's  While  we(io(»n  to  Uoston  and  Houie — JIaliits 
of  the  Curil)ou — The  Micniac  Indians— C'onclusoin. 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PAfiK. 

1.  at.  .Tolin'sthe  Capifcil IH 

2.  F^ntrance  to  Sal va^^e  ]  farl lor 'iO 

•{.  (irand  Fall  of  Hie  Exploits 22 

4.  Scene  on  (Jrand  Lake 2:5 

5.  S.  S.  Avalon  Taking  TVritiosOre  at  Pilley's  Island 2."» 

(i.  "White  j^round  Carihou  moss  ui»on  which  they  feed  in  the  absence  of 

snow 27 

7.  r>lack  Caril)on  moss  as  it  occurs  on  tree  trunks  and  branches  winter 

food  when  snow  is  deep 28 

8.  rtarmi«;an  or  Willow  (Irouse  in  mottled  coat  fall  of  year :{() 

9.  Harvest  time  on  the  banks :>,■) 

10.  Curinj;  Cod  at  Harbor  Briton 37 

11.  Harp  Seal  less  than  fourteen  days  old  with  sealinji;  jiun 40 

12.  Leading  tickels,  a  stiniple  coast  town 45 

115.  Section  of  settlement  at  Pilley's  Island  Pyrities  mine 50 

14.  The  Cree  Stove,  Avhicli  as  improved,  makes  the  best  camp  stove  known  95 

15.  Cany-all  with  carrying  strap  attached 98 

16.  Author's  convenient  tool  case 100 


HKI     I     I      ■     P^^P"^"^""li^J 


I 


LIST  Ol'^    II.LrSTKATIONS 


17. 

IH. 
15). 
2{). 
21. 
22. 

2:?. 

21. 

25. 

2(5. 

27. 

28. 

29. 

30. 

31. 

32. 

33. 

34. 

35. 

36. 

37. 

38. 

39. 

40. 

41. 

42. 

43. 

44. 

45 

46. 

47. 

48. 

49. 

50. 

51. 

52. 


—■        ri-y- 


Tlie  Ifall  combination  rifle  and  sliot<;un 102 

The  Conistock  one-pok'  Trotcan  tent lOl 

S.  S,  Portia,  at  her  dock,  Halifax,  Nova  Seotia Ill 

License  SlOO.OO  and  100  cents 121 

An  oh'  view  of  St.  Jc   n's 126 

Fort  Andierst 128 

St.  .Tohivs  Imrnt  district  after  tire  of  1892 129 

The  Catholic  Cathedial 132 

Church  of  Knj-land  Cathedral 132 

Parliament  1  lonse.  1 34 

( Jovernnient  House ]  34 

Quidi  Vidi 135 

Two  old  native  sjilts 138 

Hotel  Le  BulTe,  Hall's  Bay 141 

Our  native  cjirriers  and  jiiude 144 

Our  Cal)in  on  th"  Bijj;  Marsh 146 

"The  Doctor's  Pdind  " 150 

"Indian  Jim" 153 

The  "Kid's"  Trophies  of  the  Hunt 158 

Wm.  I'aul — Micmac  Indian 1(52 

Wm.  Paul's  Sister 163 

Battered  Bullets 169 

Kepler  and  the  King 175 

The  King 177 

Le  Biiffe  and  the  Emi^eror 186 

The  Feet  of  the  Emperor 187 

Tlie  Author  and  His  First  Prize 18H 

Leaving  Grandfather's  Lookout 190 

riie  Exliibi tion  Stag 193 

Keplor's  Specimens 195 

Arriving  at  the  Foot  of  AVest  I'ond 196 

Hugging  the  South  Shore  of  West  Pond  in  a  Storm 198 

Stuck  on  the  Rocks  at  "  Devil's  Elbow  " 198 

Curing  Hides  and  lieads  at  Le  BulTe's  Storehouse 201 

The  Silvia  Waiting  in  Pilley's  Island  Harbor 204 

Coast  of  Labrador  as  seen  from  Ship  in  Straits  of  Belle  Isle 206 


mmt 


"••■-'  -^  "■- 


CARIBOU  SHOOTING  L\  i\EWFOUXl)LANI). 


CHAPTER    I. 

INTRODUCTIOX. 

Outings  a  Necessity  to  Brain  AVorkers— '^  Can't  Afford  It  ''— 
How  to  Kaise  the  Wind— Transmute  Smoke  into  Gold- 
Consolidate  your  ''  Days  off,"  and  Have  Something  to 
Show  for  Them— Longer  Life  and  More  in  It. 


HILE  the  forests  and  fauna  of  tlie  Nortli 
American  continent  steadily  decrease  from 
f^i^^^^l  y<-"ii'  to  year,  the  army  of  ''outers"  and  so- 
called  sportsmen  increases  still  more  rapidly— from 
Presidents  occnpying  the  highest  office  in  the  gift  of 
tlie  people,  to  farmers'  sons— through  all  the  learned 
professions  and  tradespeople — rounding  up  with  the 
^'pot"  or  market  hunter  who  kills  hoth  in  and  out  of 
season,  Avhenever  and  wherever  an  opportunity  otters. 
For  the  past  twenty  years  it  has  heen  the  author's 
custom  to  take  an  outing  of  from  lour  to  six  weeks 
every  year;  and  for  A'arious  reasons  he  has  pitched 
his  tent  or  built  his  cabin  or  lean-to  in  many  sections 
of  our  great  country.     In  all  of  these  delightful  trips 

2  (9) 


g_ 


10 


CAKIBOU  SHOOTING   IX   NEWFOUNDLAND. 


ho  has  been  accompanied  \)y  from  one  to  three  boon 
companions,  and  tlie  locahties  visited  have  ranged 
from  the  interior  of  Newfoundland  in  the  north  to  the 
sand-dunes  and  pahnetto  swamps  waslied  by  the  warm 
waters  of  the  (hilf  in  the  soutli,  and  westAvard  to  the 
shores  of  the  placid  Pacific. 

As  these  pilgrimages  have  extended  into  seventeen 
States  and  Territories  and  the  Dominion  of  Canada, 
he  lias  learned  much  from  practical  experience  witli 
regard  to  the  haunts  and  habits  of  our  native  game 
and  hslies — from  tlie  ungainly  moose,  noble  elk  and 
caribou,  to  the  diminutive  chipmunk,  and  from  the 
Silver  King  to  the  sprightly  suntisli.  The  note-book 
and  camera  have  always  been  close  companions,  and 
as  Time's  wheels  roll  on  they  afford  much  pleasure, 
in  recalling  to  mind  many  incidents  of  our  sports 
afield. 

Born  and  reared  as  he  was  among  the  mountains  of 
central  Pennsylvania,  where  half  a  century  ago  game 
was  plentiful,  and  where,  under  the  tutelage  of  his 
now  venerable  father — who  is  yet  an  ardent  s})orts- 
man,  though  in  his  eighty-second  year  —  he  learned 
the  use  of  the  rod  and  gun  at  a  very  tender  age.  Is 
it  any  Avonder,  then,  that  when  the  sap  begins  to  fall 
and  the  leaves  to  cliange  color  in  the  autumn,  he  be- 
comes restless  under  the  yoke  of  arduous  professional 


^ 


'if'l 


HINTS   TO   BKAIX-WOlMvKIJS. 


11 


(lutic'S,  uikI  anxious  to  seek  ''the  luilntat  of  fin,  fur 
and  feather" — tliere  to  break  tliat  fatal  strain  on  tlic 
nervous  system  from  the  daily  routine  of  work  and 
worry  wliieh  lias  hurried  so  many  good  men  to  ].)re- 
mature  graves. 

HINTS    TO    r.RAIN-WORKEKS. 

If  hrain-workers  as  a  elass  would  take  less  '^  ner- 
vines," elubs  and  l)an([uets,  and  stick  to  three  square 
meals  a  day  of  well-eooked,  healthful  food,  witli  an 
outing  of  from  four  h^  six  weeks  out  of  the  fifty-tAVo, 
the  country  at  large  would  be  benefited,  and  wo 
would  ha\x'  better  lawyers,  doctors  and  divines, 
brighter  students  and  more  successful  merchants. 

It  would  l)e  improper  in  the  introduction  to  this 
narrative  to  dwell  at  length  upon  the  importance  of 
out-door  sports  to  brain- workers,  and  indeed  to  all 
whose  pursuits  recj^uire  them  to  draw  upon  nerve  force, 
especially  in-doors,  day  in  and  out,  like  automata. 
The  unanimous  verdict  is  stereotyped  and  familiar  to 
all  that  "all  Avork  and  no  play  makes  Jack  a  dull 
boy." 

''Yes,"  said  a  friend  since  my  return,  ''I  would  en- 
joy an  outing  to  Newfoundland  to  the  fullest  extent, 
and  would  be  benefited  in  many  ways.  I,  too,  love 
the   rippling   brook,    the   majestic   river,    real    land- 


i  .] 


;ii 


XI 


'M 


12 


CAKIliOr   SHOOTING    IX    XKWForNDLAND. 


scapes,  towcrin.i;'  mountains,  the  pure  In-acing  atnios- 
pliere,  and  to  lioat  on  the  ocean  waves;  ijut  alas!  I 
cannot  atlord  such  an  outing.  Jt  is  not  'too  rich  for 
my  blood,'  but  for  my  purse — there's  the  rub.  I  get 
just  that  far,  mid  the  l)arrier  is  so  great  tliat,  crest- 
fallen, I  give  up  in  despair,  and  take  a  day  oif  here 
and  there.  Three  or  four  times  diu'ing  the  summer  I 
go  to  the  river  for  a  day's  tisliing  for  bass,  and  as  often 
I  run  down  to  the  beach,  spending  one  or  two  days  at 
a  time  there.  This,  with  an  occasional  slioot  with  the 
clulj  at  inanimate  targets,  makes  up  about  all  the  re- 
creation I  can  afibrd,  unless  you  can  put  me  on  a  plan 
by  which  I  can  take  a  better  outing — conscious  as  I 
am  of  the  fact  that  the  'day  at  a  time'  outing  is  of 
very  little  benefit,  inasmuch  as  1  must  work  all  the 
harder  to  make  u})  lor  the  day  or  two  of  temporary 
absence."  Knowing  nw  friend's  income,  habits,  home 
life  and  inclinations,  as  well  as  his  oft-exj)ressed  desire 
to  accompany  me  on  one  of  my  annual  outings,  I  was 
not  long  in  obtaining  his  permission  to  be  inter- 
viewed, and  assured  of  correct  replies  to  such  ques- 
tions as  1  might  ask,  with  a  view  of  his  ''raising  the 
wind,"  and  enabling  him  to  take  an  outing  from 
which  he  could  derive  some  permanent  benefit. 

''Read}^?     Here  goes!     How  many  extra  or  unne- 
cessary meals  do  you  take  and  pa}'  for  at  the  club  or 


i 


. . .  ...:«••■«« 


TKANSMUTE  S:\r()KE  INTO  GOLD. 


13 


^ 


restaurant  during  the  course  of  a  year,  and  wliat  do 
they  cost?" 

''At  a  low  estimate  fifty,  and  at  a  cost  of  not  less 
than  seventy-five  cents  each." 

''Fifty   meals    at    seventy-five    cents    eacli    equal 
$37.50.     Do  you  smoke,  and  if  so  wliat?" 

"Yes,  I  smoke  four  ten-cent  cigars  a  da3\" 

"Well,  as  a  rule,  the  difference  between  a  ten-cent 
cigar  and  one  for  five  cents,  as  they  are  found  in  tlie 
market,  is  simply  the  difference  in  the  price.     If  you 
nuist  smoke  four  cigars  a  day,  cast  about  and  save 
twenty  cents  a  day,  or  seventy-tiu'ee  dollars  a  year, 
by  smoking  a  good  five-cent  cigar.     Or,  better'still, 
()ne  dozen  Creme  ( lambier  French  clay  pipes  will  cost 
fifty  cents;  six  cents  will  purchase  sufficient  rubber 
tubing  to  tip  tlie  stcMus;  one  pound  of  Vindex  or  Seal 
of  Nortli  Carolina  sjiioking  tobacco  will  fill  your  pipe 
four  times  a  day  for  forty  days,  and  ten  pounds  will 
last  you  a  year,  at  an  expense  of  about  five  dollars 
and  fifty-five  cents,  saving  on  tlie  cigar-smoking  at 
forty  cents  a  day  »140.45,   or   if  you   buy  them  at 
wholesale,  say  .flOO.OO  on  tliis  one  ^ extra.'     And  by 
using  eitlier  of  these  brands  of  smoking  tobacco  you 
will  liave  a  milder,  sweeter  smoke  than  you  can  pos- 
sibly obtain  from  tlie  general  run  of  cigars,  and  with 
vastly  less  enervating  effect  on  the  general   healtli ; 


^jggf^jjgmmijsijiam 


14 


CAKlBOl-  SIKJOTIXG   JX   XEWFOIXDLAND. 


besides,  you  escape  tlie  dangers  lurking  in  the  small 
end  of  the  eigai-  (unless  you  use  a  S'noker). 

"Now,  you  say  you  take  a  day  oil' about  four  times 
a  summer  to  go  bass-lishing.  On  an  average,  what 
does  it  cost  you  on  one  of  those  trips?  " 

"\\\^\],  raih-oad  fare  or  horse  hire,  boatman,  bait, 
etc.,  about  $5.00  •  day,  or  $20.00  a  year." 

''And  four  times  in  the  season  you  run  down  to  the 
seashore,  which  takes  two  days  each  trip,  or  eight 
days  in  all.     \\1iat  do  those  trips  cost?" 

''Well,  al)()ut  115.00  each,  or  JOO.OO  for  the  year." 
"Now,    juy   friend,   I    kno^v   you    take  a  glass  of 
whiskey  occasionally,  and  that  you  take  your  beer  in 
the  evening.     Give  me  some  idrn  of  what  you  expend 
for  drinks  for  self  and  friends." 

"Well,  1  will  frankly  say  that  I  kept  a  memoran- 
dum once  for  several  months,  and  was  astonished  to 
lind  that  I  was  paying  out  on  an  average  hfty  cents  a 
day,  or  about  $180.00  a  year,  for  my  drink  habit." 

"  Unless  you  are  very  sure  that  you  are  much  bene- 
fited by  this  outlay,  you  would  do  Avell  to  consider  the 
propriety  of  investing  tlie  same  amount  in  some  other 
enterprise,  and  I  would  suggest  that  it  be  added  to 
the  outing  fund. 

"This  is  not  all;  you  inform  me  that  you  are  a 
member  of  a  gun  club.     Plow  often   do   you  shoot 


'iii 


CONSOLIDATE   YOUK'    "DAYS   OFF." 


15 


will  I  it,  aii'l  on  an  iivcragc  lio\v  much  does  caeli  shoot 
cost  you?" 

'M  .-hoot,  I  prosuuio,  (3n  an  average,  ahout  ten  times 
a  year,  and  after  I  pay  for  shells  and  incidentals,  in- 
cluding losses  in  races  in  which  the  other  fellow  hits 
oftener  than  I  do,  say  tive  dollars,  or  $50.00  a  year." 

''Let's  see  what  this  all  amounts  to:  $37. 50  for 
extra  meals  during  the  year;  #100.00  for  smoking; 
f 20.00  for  fishing;  $00.00  for  trips  to  the  shore; 
|1 80.00  fur  drinks,  and  $50.00  for  the  shooting  cluh 
—  making  a  total  of  $447.50,  or  nearly  $1.25  for  each 
day  in  the  year.  This  is  the  way  money  goes  for  that 
for  wliich  we  have  nothing  to  show.  I  have  heen 
there,  and  as  you  see,  know  just  how  it  is.  I  also 
know  that  from  $250.00  to  $300.00,  if  properly  ex- 
pended, will  defray  all  the  expenses  of  a  grand  outing 
of  from  six  weeks  to  two  months  to  any  point  in  the 
United  States,  Canada  or  Newfoundland,  and  with  all 
the  advantages  and  comforts  of  fii'st-class  t^'avel,  leav- 
ing a  halance  for  extras  and  some  trophies  of  the 
chase  which  money  could  not  purchase,  and  wliich 
are  ever  a  source  of  pleasure  and  instruction  as  speci- 
mens of  Natural  Plistory,  and  positive  evidence  of 
one's  })rowess  and  skill  with  the  gun. 

''  Now,  my  friend,  you  see  where  the  money  comes 
from  which  pays  the  expenses  of  my  outings.     You 


m^ 


mgss 


10 


CAKIBOi:   81IOOTINCi   IN   NEWFOUNDLAND. 


drop  oil  nr.  average  -11^1.25  a  day  in  liaving  what  is 
generally  considenul  to  bo  a  good  time,  and  in  wliat 
the  boys  call  'sowing  their  wild  oats.'  Try  (h'o|)[>ing 
81)  cents  into  vonr  outing  fund,  and  at  the  end  of  tlie 
year  you  will  liave  tlie  3onifortal)le  sum  of  ¥202.00, 
out  of  wliieli  you  can  get  more  sohd  fun  and  grand 
sport  in  the  Island  of  Newlbundhmd  than  ever  you 
dreamed  of,  and  von  will  still  have  fortv-five  cents  a 
day  for  creature  comforts — which  is  found  to  be  ami)le 
for  a  goodly  number  of  the  outing  fraternity,  and  is 
as  much  and  even  more  than  thousands  of  g(^od,  in- 
dustrious citizens  earn." 

It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  reader  will  not  be  led  to 
think  that  the  auth(jr  is  i)Osing  as  a  reformer,  from 
this  prelude  to  the  description  of  an  outing  which  for 
variety  and  satisfactory  results  eclipsed  any  among 
the  many  in  years  gone  by.  At  the  same  time,  it  does 
none  of  us  any  harm  to  have  our  little  shortcomings 
alluded  to,  and  especially  where  experience  has  proven 
the  correctness  of  the  criticism ;  for  there  is  scarcely 
any  doul)t  that  many  of  those  who  peruse  these  pages 
Avill  recognize  the  picture  in  this  introduction,  and  if 
but  few  do  as  the  author  has  long  since  dono' — change 
front — the  battle  may  last  longer,  but  the  outcome 
will  be  more  satisfactory,  and  certainly  the  outings 
will  be  more  numerous  and  beneficial. 


(MI  APTKR   II. 


IMIVSU'AL    Fi:ATri{KS    <)K    \  K\VF(  )r  N  ni.AM). 


Its  Geoftrapliical  l*()sitiou — Comparative  Size — Form — Coast 
Aspect — Tlie  Interior — Mountain  Chains — Kivers — Lakes 
and  I'onds — Baj^s. 

AVING  endonvoivd  to  ('(^nvince  the  rcadur 
of  the  Viilue,  (jxi^n  ncccssitv,  of  an  occiisional 
outing  to  the  prolongation  and  enjoyment  of 
life,  he  is  now  to  be  made  acquainted  witli  the  scene 
of  our  last,  and  in  many  resi)ects  most  succtessful  ex- 
periment in  that  line  —  the  Island  of  Newfoundland. 

The  world  in  general  outside  of  this,  the  tenth  in 
size  of  the  islands  of  the  world,  knows  but  little  of  it ; 
and  if  graduates  of  high  schools  and  academies  were 
to  be  re(|uired  to  tell  all  they  know  about  it  the  an- 
swer would  ])e  Hmited  to  its  geographical  })ositi()n, 
number  of  square  miles,  something  about  the  banks, 
codfish,  seals,  snow,  ice  and  fog ;  and  perhaps  inform 
you  that  the  ca})ital  is,  or  was,  St.  John's. 

Newfoundland  is  England's  oldest  colony,  and  lies 
off  the  east  coast  of  Nortli  America,  and  directly 
across  the  Gulf  of  St.   liaAvrence.     Its  southwestern 

(  17  ) 


18 


CAWinof   SIIOOTINc;    in    XKWForNNLWI). 


extminity  apin'oacbos  within  50  miles  of  Caju'  I^rc- 
ton,  while  its  most  castoi'ly  projoctioii  is  but  M'Ai) 
miles  from  N'alentia,  on  the  coast  (>\'  Ireland.  It  is 
situated  between  4(;°  'MY  50"  and  51°  IV,)'  north  lati- 
tude, and  between  52°  37'  and  51)°  24'  50"  west  lon.<;i- 
tude.       its  greatest  length,   from  Cape  Kay   io  Cape 


v', 


PT.    JOHN'S,    THE    CAPITAL. 


Norman,  is  317  miles  ;  its  greatest  breadth,  from  Cape 
Spear  to  Cape  Anguille,  31G  miles;  and  its  total 
area  about  42,000  square  miles.  The  best  idea  of  its 
extent  is  obtainable  by  comparison  with  other  coun- 
tries Avith  Avhich  Ave  are  familiar.  For  example,  it  is 
almost  as  large  as  the  State  of  NeAV  York,  twice  the 
size  of  NoA^a  Scotia,  one-third  lar2;er  than  NeAv  Bruns- 


m 


•m 


I 


Tin:  COAST. 


I 'J 


i 


wick,  <)ii('-si\tli  larger  tliau  Iivland,  lliivc  linios  as 
lariio  as  Holland,  and  twice  as  larii:c  as  Donmavk.  Its 
liii'iirc  roiiii'ldy  ai)[)roa('hcs  an  ccjnilatci'al  lrian,Lilc. 
(^^cc  nia[).)  Two  large  peninsulas  project  from  the 
main  hody  of  the  island  :  one  *)f  these  (Petit  Xord) 
[)oints  noilhwards,  and  is  long  and  narrow;  the  other 
is  the  peninsula  of  Avalon,  i)ointing  southeast,  an«l 
almost  severed  from  the  mainland  —  the  c<Mniection 
heing  a  narrow  istliuuis,  in  one  place  hut  three  miles 
wide.  ( )n  the  eastern  side  oi'  the  2)eninsula  of  Avalon 
is  situated  St.  John's,  the  capital. 


1 


TUV:    COAST. 

As  seen  from  the  ocean,  the  shores  of  Newfound- 
land furu'sh  a  picture  of  rock-bound  cliffs  rising  from 
200  to  500  feet  u  height,  broken  by  numerous  mag- 
nificent bays,  running  in  some  instances  80  to  90 
miles  inland  and  throwing  out  smaller  arms  in  all 
directions,  so  that  though  the  circumference  of  the 
island  from  headland  to  headland  is  al)out  1000  miles, 
the  actual  length  of  coast  line  is  more  than  twice  as 
much.  Tliese  bays  fre(|uently  present  varied  scenes 
of  beauty,  being  studded  with  small  islands,  having 
their  shores  clad  in  many  instances  with  dark  green 
forests  to  the  Abater's  edge,  Avliile  in  others  the  rocks 
are  barren  or  moss-covered. 


20 


CAIMIKM     SlIooTlNc;    IN    NKW  Tc  UNDLAND. 


THK    IXTKKIOR. 

The  pnrl  of  tlic  islnixl  nearest  tlie  sen  consists  of  si 
liill\'  countrw  witli  eminences  of  no  verv  urcat  eleva- 
tion.     The   interior  projx'i    consists  as  a  whole  of  an 


ENTRANCE   TO    SALVAGE   HARBOR. 

elevated  undulating  plateau,  traversed  here  and  there 
by  ranges  of  low  hills;  the  surface  being  diversified 
Avitli  valleys,  woods,  fresh-water  lakes  and  ponds,  and 
thousands  of  acres  of  marshes.  All  the  great  hill 
ranges  take  a  northeasterly  and  southwesterly  direc- 
tion, the  highest  land  occurring  along  the  western  and 


i 


h^. 


^ 


II I r:  lavKK's. 


21 


i 

I 


i 


snullici'ii  sliori's.  Tlic  principal  inoimtniii  clmin  is 
tlic  Lonii'  Kaii.u'c,  wliidi  extends  nlonu'  the  western 
side  of  the  island  for  nearlv  its  entire  leiiiitli,  and  has 
peaks  more  tiian  2,(HHI  I'cct  hi'di-  I'ai'allel  to  this.  l)nt 
ne:;rer  th«'  coast,  is  llie  ('ape  An^nilie  I'an.Li'e.  Tlie 
peninsnla  of  Asaloii  is  verv  liillv,  lait  the  liiiihest 
summits  do  not  extend  l,o()()  teut. 


d 
d 

[1 

ll 


IMVKUS. 

Tlie  l{ii'm"est  river  is  tlu^  lv\[)loits,  wliich  is  200  miles 
in  length,  with  a  drainage  area  oj"  jjetween  '^,000  and 
4,000  square  nn'les.  it  lias  its  source  in  tli(M'xtreme 
southwestern  angle  of  the  island,  and  Hows  in  u  north- 
easterly direction  through  \ivd  Indian  Lake,  discharg- 
ing its  waters  into  the  ]^)ay  of  ivxploits  Notre  J)anu\ 
The  Cirand  Fall  of  the  lv\'i)loits  is  nineteen  miles  up 
the  river.  Tlie  first  plunge  is  fifty  feet,  the  stream 
being  se[)arated  on  the  verge  of  the  j)reci[)ice  by  a 
small  island,  and  at  the  bottmn  pent  up  in  a  narrow 
tortuous  gorge,  hennned  in  bv  craiiuv  cliffs.  The 
valley  through  which  the  liver  flows  contains  large 
areas  of  fertile  land,  nuich  of  which  is  covered  with 
pine  foi'ests  containing  timber  of  large  size. 

The  next  river  in  size  is  the  llumber,  wliich  has  its 
source  twenty  miles  inland  from  Bonne  Bay  and  afcer 
a  verv  circuitous  route  discharges  its  waters  into  Deer 


^ 


|L8BUi.-JI.'4M,ia 


00 


CAiaiior  siiooTixd  i\  newfoindland. 


•  .akc,   tlu'ivc   flowing   inti)  tliu   ]3ay  of   Islands.     It 
drains  an  area  of  2,000  s(juaR^  miles. 

Tlio  Ciandcr  river  is  the  next  in  size,  and  ri.;es  near 
the  southern  coast,  Mowing  tln-ough  (lander  Lake,  dis- 
charginii:  into  (Jande)*  liav  on  the  east  coast,  and  has 
a  drainage  area  of  2,500  s(|uaro  miles. 


GRAND    FALL    OF    THE    EXPLOITS. 


FRESir    WATER    LAKES    AND    I'OXDS. 

These  form  one  of  the  most  remarkahle  })hysical 
features  of  this  unique  region,  and  occupy  nearly  one- 
third  of  the  whole  sui'face.  The  largest  is  Grand 
Lake,  56  miles  in  length  and  covering  an  area  of  190 
S([r.are  miles.     It  contains  an  island  22  miles  in  length 


.1 

s 


4 

4 


THE  BAYS. 


23 


and  5  miles  in  width.  Red  Indian  \A\kv  is  .'>"  miles 
long  and  ()4  siiuaiv  miles  in  area.  Gander  Lake  and 
l)eei'  liake  occupy  33  and  24  S(|uare  miles  res[)eetively. 
Sandv  Lake,  N'ictoria,  I  Finds,  Terra  Nova  and  Georue 
I^^  Lakes  raidc  next  in  size.  The  shores  of  many  of 
these   iakes,   as    well   as   the   fertile  vallexs  throngji 


I 


SCENE    ON    GRAND    LAKE. 


which  the  rivers  flow,  are  as  yet  ahsohite  solitudes, 
the  very  existence  of  which  was  until  recently  almost 
unknown. 


THE    BAYS. 


Of  the  many  hays  ah'eady  alluded  to,  the  following 
deserve  special  mention : 


24 


CAianOU  SHOOTING    IN   NEWFOUNDLAND. 


St.  Mary's  ])ay  is  '2~)  iniks  wi(k'  at  its  nioutli  and  .j5 
miles  long,  Avith  two  .uTcat  arms,  Salmonici"  and  Col- 
inot,  l)otli  of  which  strctcli  still  farther  into  the  inte- 
rior. J^lacentia  Jjav  is  55  miles  wide  and  1)0  miles 
lonji'.  Fortune  ]3av  is  25  miles  wide  and  70  in  length, 
with  numerous  arms,  the  most  important  of  which  are 
])av  D'J'^snoir,  Hermitajie  liav  and  C'onnaiiii'e  liav. 

At  the  entrance  of  Fortune  J>ay  are  the  two  islands 
of  St.  Pierre  and  Mi(|uelon,  cedcMJ  hv  treaty  to  France 
for  the  shelter  of  her  tishermen,  and  now  all  that  re- 
mains to  France  of  tlie  vast  possessions  she  once  held 
in  North  America,  and  this  she  holds  to  the  creat 
detriment  of  the  Newfoundkniders. 

Around  Way  St.  George,  which  is  4(.)  miles  wide  at 
its  mouth,  with  a  good  harhor  at  its  head,  are  some  of 
the  most  fertile  valleys  on  the  island,  with  fine  forests 
of  timl)er  and  coal-helds  of  large  anni.  Ba}^  of  Islands 
has  three  hne  arms  running  20  miles  inland,  and  here 
is  located  an  extensive  herring  fishery. 

Notre  Dame  Bav  is  50  miles  Avide  at  its  mouth,  and 
]"uns  iidand  80  miles.  ( )n  its  shores  are  famous  cop- 
per mines  which  have  heen  worked  with  marked  suc- 
cess, as  well  as  the  Pilley's  Island  Pyrites  mine,  which 
is  now  Ijeing  worked  at  a  great  profit  to  the  syndicate 
owning  the  j>lant.  Pilley's  Island  is  in  the  mouth  of 
Notre   Dame  Bay  and  the  point  from  which  an  arm 


tm 


THE   BAYS. 


25 


I 


known  as  Hall  Bay  extends  25  miles  into  the  interior 
in  a  southwesterly  direction.  Our  expedition  left  the 
ship  at  this  [)oint,  and  reached  the  White  Hills  from 
the  head  of  Hall's  J^av. 


S.  S.  AVALOX   TAKING    PYRITES   ORE    AT    PILLEY's    ISLAND. 

3 


nMMMaili 


m 


ITE  FAUNA  of  XewfoundlaiKl  will  be  next 
^^^^  '^^'i^'%  toucliod  upon.     Aiiioiig  tliu  indigen- 
tf^^'^^^^^  <>^^^  aninuds,  the  Woodland  (Ji'niHpfrr   Cari- 
hoii)  (Caribou  or  lioindoor  liolds  a  conspicuous  place, 
as    the  island  contains  more  of  these  noblo  animals 
than  any  other  country  in  the  world.     Tliey  migrate 
regularly  to  the  soutlieastern  and  nortli  western ''por- 
tions of  the  island,  passing  the  winter  montlis  in  the 
soutli,  wliere  "browse"  is  plentiful  ajid  the  snow  not 
too  deep  to  prevent  them  from  o])taim'nj'-  tlie  moss 
and  lichens  on  the  lower  grounds  and  upon  which 
they  principally  feed  the  year  round.     Jn  March  they 
begin  their  spring  migration  to  tlie  mountains  and 
barrens  of  the  northwest  Nvhere,  in  May  and  June, 
they  bring  forth  tlieir  young.     As  soon  as  the  forests 
of  October  begin  to  nip  the  vegetation,  they  begin  to 

'  (  26  ) 


.■>* 


CHAPTKrv  irr. 

Fauna  of  tlie  Islands-Caribou  or  Reinaeer-Its  Migrations- 
Bear,  Wolves  and  Smaller  Aninials-Tlie  Xewfoundland 
Dog— His  Degeneracy— Birds— The  Ptarmigan— Flora- 
Forests  of  the  Gander-Exploits  and  Ilumber  River  Dis- 
tricts— Timber    and    Lumber    Operations— Berry-bearin 


Plants. 


g 


i 


%. 


ITS    MKMIATIOX. 


27 


TC 


graze  toward  tlii^  soiitli  ;  lionce  from  tlu^  middle  of 
Sei)tomlK'r  until  the  same  time  in  Xovemlu'r  is  tlio 
best  time  tor  stalking,  when  at  times  they  ean  be  seen 


AVIIITE   GROUND    CARHJOU    MOSS  UPON  AVHICH    THEY    FEED    IN   THE 

ABSENCE    OF   SNOW. 


;s 
) 


on  the  marshes  in  great  herds,  containing  frequently 
more  than  a  hundred.  The  time  of  migration  de- 
pends somewhat  on  the  frosts  and  snows  in  the  north, 
as  an  early  snow  will  cause  the  deer  to  start;  but  if 


^ 


^ 


28 


CAKIBOr  8ir()0TIN0    IX   XEWFOINDLAND. 


tlu'  weather  beeonies  warm  tliey  call  a  lialt  and  re- 
main in  the  neighborhoud  wliere  tlie  warm  weather 
sets  in,  and  at  times  tliey  graze  nortliward,  resuming 


1 


BLACK    CARIBOU    MOSS    AS    IT   OCCORS   ON   TREE   TRUNKS    AND 
BRANCHES.      WINTER   FOOD   WHEN   SNOW   IS   DEEP. 


•■1 


■1^ 
IHMilll 


t^lWVtf 


TlIK    r.IRDS. 


29 


'<% 


I 


■p. 

I 


i 


their  soutliward  Journey  wlieii  tlie  weather  beeomes 
colder. 

There  are  bears,  wolves  and  other  animals,  in  addi- 
tion to  the  caribou,  which  is  the  only  member  of  the 
deer  family  on  the  island.  The  black  bear  and  wolf 
are  abundant  in  the  interior,  especially  the  former, 
and  in  addition  the  black,  grey,  silver  and  red  fox ; 
also  beaver,  otter,  Arctic  hare.  North  American  hare, 
weasel,  bat,  rat,  mouse  and  muskrat.  The  famous 
Newfoundland  dog  is  still  to  be  met  with,  though 
good  specimens  are  few  and  far  between,  and  those 
expecting  to  make  a  purchase  had  better  consult  one 
of  the  many  kennels  in  the  United  States,  wdiere 
there  is  an  opportunity  of  making  a  selection.  The 
Newfoundland  dog  of  to-day  is  a  degenerate  mongrel, 
good  for  nothing  except  to  drag  a  heavy  clog  during 
the  summer,  and  the  sledge  during  the  winter  months. 
There  are  no  frogs,  toads,  snakes,  lizards  or  any  other 
reptiles  on  the  island. 


BIRDS. 


It  is  estimated  that  there  are  300  species  of  birds  in 
the  island,  most  of  which  are  migratory.  Among 
them  are  the  eagle,  hawk,  owl,  woodpecker,  swallow, 
kingfisher,  six  species  of  flycatchers  and  a  like  num- 
ber of  thrushes,  warblers,  finches,  ravens  and  jays. 


ISf^SS^WIB^. 


wsm 


^fa 


30 


CAIMIJor   ,SII(M)TL\(;    IN    NEW1'(UM)L.\M). 


'^J'lic  ptaniiiiiJin,  or  willow  uroiisc,  is  vcrv  abundant 
and  is  the  lincst  i;anu'  hird  on  the  island.  Thcv  aro 
al)out  tlie  sizL'  of  the  ])hL'asant  or  rulllcd  grouse  ol'  the 


FEMALE.  MALE. 

PTARMIGAN  OR  WILLOW  GROUSE  IN  MOTTLED  COAT  FALL  OF  YEAR. 


1-      'i 


States,  though  not  sucli  rapid  flyers,  and  furnish  line 
sport,  and  tlieir  flesli  is  all  tliat  could  be  wished  for — 
juicy,  sweet  and  tender.  In  summer  tliev  are  of  a 
reddish   brown,   but   in    winter   almost    Avhite,   Avith 


I 


Tin:    TLOIJA. 


31 


fcatlicrs  to  tlicir  toe  nails.  Tlic  rock  [)tanmi;an  is 
t'oimd  in  tlic  hi^ulicsl  and  most  iKiiTcn  |)orti(>ns  of  tiic 
island,  tlion,uli  not  in  such  ^'ivat  numbers  as  the  wil- 
low grouse  or  ptarmi,uan,  which  is  found  in  all  parts. 

KLOKA. 

The  i)ine,  spruce,  hirch,  juni[)er  and  larch  of  the 
forests  in  the  interior  furnish  amj)le  material  for  a 
large  lumber  trade,  as  well  as  for  shipbuilding  [)ur- 
poses.  The  white  pine  grows  from  a  height  of  from 
seventy  to  eighty  feet  in  some  sections,  and  attains  a 
diameter  of  from  three  to  four  feet.  Tiie  mountain 
ash,  l)alsam  j)oi)lar  and  aspen  thi'ive  well,  and  ever- 
ureens  are  in  endless  variety. 

Tlie  Geological  Report  of  the  (Jander  lliver  district 
estimates  the  available  pine  limits  here  at  850  square 
miles,  including  the  valley  of  the  ( lambo  and  Triton 
River  and  the  country  alonir  the  south  side  of  the 
lake  and  across  to  Freshwater  Bay.  Most,  if  not  all, 
the  pine  here  lofei'red  to  is  of  the  white  variety  — 
PInu.'i  strohici  —  probably  the  most  valuable  species  for 
the  manufacture  of  lundjer.  The  same  authority  says 
that  between  the  Grand  Falls  and  Badger  Brook  on 
both  sides  of  the  Exploits  River  pine  flourishes  lux- 

uriantl}^ ;  these  reaches  also  display  a  fine  growth  of 
other  varieties  of  timber,  and  at  some  points,  and  es- 


wmssM 


W| 


CAIUHOU   SHO(yri\(J    IX   NKWrolNDLAM). 


peciiiUy  iibovo  tlic  forks  of  Sandy  lU'ook,  white  birch 
atttiins  II  vory  hirgu  size. 

The  souriicrii  sitU^  of  the  Exploits  presents  an  un- 
broken dense  forest  in  a  series  of  gentle  undulations 
for  nianv  miles,  and  from  the  Victoria  River  to  the 
head  of  Red  Indian  Lake  the  country  is  well  timbered 
throughout. 

The  valley  of  the  1  ruml)er  is  richly  woodinl,  and  here 
lumbering  operations  have  been  carried  on  for  many 
years  on  an  extensive  scale.  Here  Tamarack  or  juni- 
per, yellow  birch,  wiiite  pine  and  spruce  grow  in  pro- 
fusion, and  to  a  size  very  little  inferior  if  not  equal  to 
the  best  that  is  now  brought  to  market  at  Gaspe  and 
otlier  parts  of  the  Lower  Province  of  Canada. 

Berry-bearing  plants  are  found  distributed  over  the 
whole  of  the  island  and  in  great  variety,  among  which 
may  be  mentioned  straw^berries,  raspberries,  capillaire, 
partridge  berries,  bakeapple  and  ''hurtz"  or  blueber- 
ries, which  can  be  gathered  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  every  settlement. 


■k     .Ik. 


HHftiSHai 


CHArTEU  IV. 


THK  KISIIKKIKS. 

Al)inulance  of  Trout  and  Salmon — "  No  Fish"  except  the  Cod, 
in  Native  Parhince — Codfisli  the  Stapki  Export — Yohinie 
of  the  Business — A  Permanent  Industry — Arctic  Current 
slime  feeds  the  small  fishes,  they  feed  the  Cod,  the  Cod  feeds 
Man — Seal  Fisheries — Slaughter  of  the  "  Harps  " — The 
Sealing  Gun — Distance  measured  by  "  Gunshots  '' — Salmon 
— Herring — Lol  )ster. 

ilvlUrAI*S  tluTO  is  no  ])lace  on  this  earth 
where  iishes  are  as  plentiful  as  in  and  around 
^1  Newfoundland.  In  every  rivulet,  river,  lake» 
pond  or  puddle  of  Avater,  no  matter  where  found,  trout 
and  salmon  abound,  and  in  season  the  angler  cannot 
fail  to  get  a  strike  and  is  ofttimes  rewarded  with  six 
to  seven  pound  '^speckled  beauties,"  and  salmon 
weighing  as  nuich  as  fifteen  pounds.  These  fish, 
coming  out  of  the  })ure  cold  spring  water  with  rock 
bottom,  are  of  superior  flavor ;  but  fine  as  they  are, 
the  natives  do  not  regard  them  as  fish,  as  the  Mlo^ving 
incident  will  illustrate.  On  our  way  into  the  interior, 
part  of  our  route  was  over  a  lovely  pond  five  miles 
long  by  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  wide.     We  had 

(33)  . 


•I* 


mmufia 


:;i 


f'AK'inor   SiroOTTNG    TN    NKWForNDr.AXI). 


made  an  early  start  and  left  the  (not  of  tlie  |)()nd  just 
as  d;iy  was  lu'eakin^'.  We  liad  not  jji'oceeded  far  when 
the  writer  th(Hi,i;ht  he  could  oeeasionally  see  tlie  watei' 
break  witli  a  splasli  in  close  proximity  to  the  canoe. 
Seate<l  as  lie  was  in  Mie  how,  he  tuiMied  to  the  native 
who  was  handhui;"  the  paddle  in  tlie  stern,  and  in- 
(piii'ed  whethei"  tliere  were  any  fisli  in  the  ])ond. 
''  Fisli?  No  sir. —  no  lish,  sir."  Presently,  when  ahout 
liah' way  up  the  })ond,  and  just  as  the  sun  was  peej)ing 
over  tlu*  east(M*n  hori/on,  he  saw  not  six  feet  from  tlie 
bow  of  the  canoe  a  ma.L;nilicent  salmon  rise  to  tlu3 
surface,  an<l  with  a  swish  of  his  tail,  disappear  to  the 
depths.  A,^'ain  he  turned  to  his  friend  with  the  re- 
mark, "Daddy,  did  I  undei-stand  you  to  say  that  therc^ 
were  uo  lish  hi  this  pond?"  ''No  Fish,  sir;  no  tish." 
''Yes,  but — 1  beg  your  j)ardon — 1  a  moment  ago 
saw  what  1  took  to  be  a  twelve  or  tifteen  pound  sal- 
mon break  the  water  not  six  feet  from  the  bow  of  the 
canoe."  "  Oh,  that  was  a  salmon.  There  are  plent}" 
of  trout  and  salmon  in  all  these  waters,  but  no  tish, 
sir.  You  know  we  don't  count  anything  as  tish  in 
these  parts  but  codfish,  sir." 


CODFISIT. 


The  fisheries  of  Newfoundland  are  the  grand  staple 
industry  of  the  countr}^,  and  about  four-fifths  of  the 


voLi'MK  (H'  tin:  jh-sini:s!s. 


Ol) 


entile  ('\|)()i't,> 


Tl 


IC    CM 


1  lisli 


icncs  MMtnc  liTcat l\'  cxc 


tl 


tliost'  ot'anv  other  coiuitrv  in  the  world.  The  annual 
avera,i;(^  export  of  this  valuahle  lish  is  about  l,,sr)(),()0() 
(piintals  ot"  Jl'J  |)oiui(ls  \vei,i;ht.  'I'he  Dominion  i)i' 
Canada  exj)orts  an  avera.ii'e  of  4oll,(lO<)  (juintals  and 


HAKVJKr    TIME  OX  THE  iJANKS. 


Norway  751, OOO  (|uintals.  Tlie  whole  Norwegian 
catch  avera<i;es  50,0()0,()0()  codHsh,  while  the  aggregate 
annual  catch  of  cod  in  North  American  waters,  includ- 
ing the  fisheries  on  the  hanks  by  French,  American, 
( 'anadian  and  Newtbundland  fishermen  is  estimated  at 
3,700,000  quintals.     The  number  of  codfish  captured 


•ibiMHMIliiiaMalkAti 


•"-'"• ' 


■*aiMi 


M 


36 


CAK'IBOU  SIJOOTING   IN   NEWFOUNDLAND. 


to  make  up  tliis  weiglit  of  dried  fish,  allowing  fifty  to 
a  quintal,  would  ]>e  185,000,000;  and  yet  this  enor- 
mou.^  annual  draft  on  these  extensive  fishing  grounds 
has  been  going  on  for  centuries  without  exhausting 
the  supply. 

A    PERMANENT   INDUSTRY. 

The  Arctic  Current,  wliich  washes  the  shores  of 
Labrador  and  Newfoundland,  is  laden  with  food  on 
which  the  cod  lives  and  thrives,  and  brings  with  it  a 
iiever-fliiling  supply  for  its  sustenance.     So  flir  from 
being  unfavorable  to  the  production  of  life,  the  Arctic 
seas  and  the  great  rivers  wliich  they  send  forth  are 
swarming  with  minute  forms  of  life,  constituting  in  ' 
many  places  '^a  living  mass,  a  vast  ocean  of  hving 
shme."     Swarms  of  minute  crustaceans,  annelids,  and 
mollusca  feed  on  this  slime  and  in  their  turn  become 
food  for  tlie  larger  marine  animals  even  up  to  the 
giant  whale;  and  curiously  enough,  this  ocean  sHme 
is  most  abundant  in  the  coldest  waters,  and  especially 
in  the  neighl)orhood  of  ice-fields  and  icebergs.     Thus 
the  great  current  in  the  ocean,  which  rushes  out  of 
Baffin  Bay,  carrying  on  its  bosom  myriads  of  icebergs 
and  washing  the  shores  of  Labrador  and  Newfound- 
land, is  swarming  with  these  minute  forms  of  marine 
life  from  the  minute  crustacean  and  the  crab  and 
prawn  together,  with  the  molluscous  animals  and  star- 


KM 


^■ki 


A   PERMANENT  INDUSTKY. 


37 


fisli  ill  [)rufusi()n,  wliicli  (•()iitril)Utu  to  the  support  of 
the  grent  schools  of  cod  wliicli  find  their  home  there. 
.Vstomuhng  are  these  great  processes  of  nature  I  The 
vast  battahons  of  icebergs,  the  terror  of  mariners, 
sailing  i)ast  these  sliores  and  often  anchoring  on  La))- 
rador  and  in  the  bays  of  Newfoundland,  bring  with 


CURING    COD    AT    HARBOR    BRITON. 

them  the  slime  food  on  which  the  almost  microscopic 
crustaceans  live.  These  in  turn  furnish  food  for  the 
caplin,  the  squid  and  the  herring,  which  Avith  nuilti- 
tudes  of  other  species  are  food  for  the  voracious  cod. 
When  the  cod  is  assimilated  b}^  man  this  great  circle  is 
complete:  the  big  fishes  devour  the  little  fishes,  and  we 
have  another  evidence  of  the  '^ survival  of  the  fittest." 


ESBfi^Bii 


38 


CAlilROU  SHOOTINO   IN'    XKWFOl-XDI.AND. 


^"  loiig  US  die  Arctic  Current  CMtim.cs  t..  fl„w  tl,o 
bank,  and  tl,o  wato.>.  about  tl,e  island  „f  Newtbuu.l- 
land  ^vlll  teen,  with  cod.     F.,r  nearly  400  vears,  cod 
hslnng  luis  been  prosecuted  regularly,  and'  has  su„- 
l.l.ed  tl,e  chief  export  of  the  country.     The  fish  be^nu 
t"  appear  „n  the  coast  about  tlie  first  of  J„ne^,t 
^vlnch  time  they  lea^■e  the  deep  water  for  the  warmer 
aud    sliallower   waters   near  shore   to   deposit    their 
^IKUvn      Then-  approach  is  heralded  by  the  beautiful 
trun  httle  caplin,  a  fish  about  seven  inches  long  aud 
wh.ch   comes  in  schools  sufficient  to  give  the  water 
the  a(,pearance  of  a  squirming   „,ass,   filling   every 
nook  and  corner  in  the  bays,  fiords,  anus  and  inte,-- 
stices  of  the  rock-bouud  coast.     The  cod   follow  iu 
then-  „-ake  aud  gorge  themselves  with  the  little  fish, 
<•     "-Inch   they  arc  very  fond,  so  they  furnish   the 
elio.cest  bait.     In  about  six  weeks  the  caplin  .lisap- 
pear  and  their  place  is  taken  by  the  squid  about  the 
hi-st  of  August.     They  are  followed  bv  the  herring 
w  uch  remain  until  about  the  un.hlle  or  end  of  Oc- 
tober, when  the  cod  fishing  season  ends. 

THU    SEAL    FISHING. 

Next  to  the  cod  fishing  in  value  comes  that  of  the 
seal,  which  has  bee,,  prosecuted  for  about  ninety 
years  only-the  natives  being  so  industriously  en- 


THE  SEAL  FISHINCI. 


39 


gaged  ill  cod  fisliing  that  tlioy  neglected  tlie  oleagi- 
nous treasures  to  be  obtained  froni  the  seal,  which  the 
ice-fields  yearly  Ijrouglit  witliin  tlieir  reacli;  so  the 
great  lierds  were  left  to  bring  fortli  their  young  amid 
tlie  ic^y  solitudes,  undisturbed  by  the  murderous  gun, 
club  and  knife  of  the  seal  liunters.  To-day,  liowever, 
tilings  are  dillereiit,  and  tlie  nurseries  of  countless 
mother  seals  are  transformed  into  slaughter-fields,  red 
with  the  blood  of  their  murdered  darlings,  slain  in 
their  icy  cradles.  The  young  seals  are  born  on  the 
ice  which  the  Arctic  Current  carries  past  the  shores 
from  the  fifteenth  to  the  twentieth  of  February,  and 
until  they  are  two  weeks  old  they  are  as  white  as 
snow  and  called  ''liar|)s."     Wdieii  ten  chiys  old  thev 

-I-  ty  •/ 

begin  to  change  color  and  become  in  a  short  time  of  a 
dark  In^own  ;  and  as  they  grow  very  rai)idly  and  yield 
a  much  iiiu.'r  quality  of  oil  than  the  old  ones,  the  ob- 
ject of  the  hunter  is  to  reach  them  in  their  babyhood, 
while  yet  fed  l)y  their  mother's  milk,  and  when  they 
are  powerless  to  escape.  So  rapid  is  their  growth 
that  by  the  sixteenth  of  March  they  are  in  the  best 
condition  to  be  taken.  By  the  first  of  April  they  be- 
gin to  leave  the  ice  and  take  to  the  wate.,  and  can  be 
no  longer  so  easily  captured.  When  a  vessel  reaches 
an  ice-field,  where  the  seals  are  visible,  the  men 
eagerly  bound  upon  the  ice,  and  the  work  of  destruc- 


•^s^mmssm^ 


'■■  ■'■'  ■  ■"-'■-■ 


?S^S^#«^'. '"-»■' 


40 


CARIBOU  SHOOTING    IX   XEWP^OUNDLAXD. 


tioii  l)Ogins.  These  innocent  animals  are  nsually 
fonnd  around  a  water-liole  or  along  tlie  shore  of  an 
ice-field  —  hundreds  of  them,  like  soldiers  in  a  row, 
Avith  their  pretty  heads  extending  over  the  ice  anx- 
iously looking  for  tlieir  motliers.  The  hunter  man- 
ages to  get  into  a  position  at  a  point  about  sixty  yards 


HARP  SEAL  LESS  THAN  FOURTEEN  DAYS  OLD  WITH  SEALING  GUN. 

from  one  end  of  the  line  of  heads  and  opens  fire  with 
his  great  sealing  gun ;  and  as  these  guns  are  used  in 
killing  reindeer  for  his  winter's  meat,  a  description  of 
them  Avill  be  given  in  another  chapter. 

As  the  distance  at  which  this  remarkable  gun  will 
do  effective  work  in  seal  hunting  has  been  forever  set- 


THE  SEAL  FLSIIING. 


41 


tied,  it  is  used  us  a  standard  among  the  natives,  and 
slionld  vou  meet  one  on  land  or  ice  and  malce  in- 
<|uirv  concerning  tlie  distance  to  a  certain  |)oint  tlie 
answer  would  hi)  one,  two,  tliree  or  four  "gunshots, 
sir" — meaning  00,  120,  1(S()  or  240  3-ards,  as  the  case 
miglit  be.  Tliese  guns,  loaded  with  from  four  to  six 
inches  of  powder  and  a  handful  of  about  No.  .'^  buck- 
shot, make  a  formidable  weapon,  and  as  a  rule  kick 
backward  almost  as  much  as  Ibrward;  and  as  tliey 
frequently  jum[)  overboard  into  the  water  when  fired 
from  the  small  Ijoats,  it  is  necessary  to  have  them  se- 
curely ftistened  to  one  end  of  a  stout  rope,  tlie  other 
end  being  attached  to  the  boat,  so  that  tlie  gun  can  be 
retrieved  after  the  shot  is  tired,  if  it  has  attempted  an 
escape  to  the  briny  deep.  Of  later  years  the  killing  is 
mostly  done  with  a  club,  one  end  of  which  is  armed 
with  a  gatf  or  hook —  a  light  blow  on  the  nose  being 
sufhcient  to  stun  tne  animal.  Instantly  the  scalping 
knife,  which  is  ever  ready  in  the  l)elt,  is  brought  into 
use,  and  in  a  few  moments  the  carcass  is  quivering  on 
the  ice,  stripped  of  its  skin,  to  which  the  fat  adheres. 
The  pelts  are  then  dragged  to  the  ship  over  the  ice 
and  taken  to  port,  where  the  skins  and  fat  are  sepa- 
rated, the  former  being  salted  for  exportation,  and  the 
latter  manufactured  into  oil  at  either  8t.  John's  or 
Harbour  Grace,  where  all  the  seal  oil  is  manufactured. 


V 


;    ■-  ., 


42 


CARIBOU  8H00TING   IN   NEWFOUNDLAND. 


SALMON    INDUSTUV. 

Nowhere  are  there  any  finer  sahnon  streams  than 
those  of  Newfoundland;  hut  as  no  proper  measures 
have  been  taken  for  their  i)reservation,  the  average 
export  for  tlie  past  ten  years  has  scarcely  exceeded 
$1UO,()()().00.  Barring  tlie  rivers  and  brooks  with  nets 
at  the  times  when  the  fish  are  ascending  to  spawn, 
constructing  weirs,  traps  and  dams,  sweeping  the  pools 
in  the  rivers  with  seine-nets,  and  night-spearing,  have 
been  carried  on  for  generations  by  ignorant  and  reck- 
less persons,  goaded  on  >y  the  greed  of  immediate 
gain;  so  that  in  the  streams  the  salmon  are  almost 
exterminated,  though  in  the  lakes  they  are  abundant, 
take  the  hook  well,  and  in  flavor  compare  favorably 
with  those  of  any  country.  There  is,  however,  a 
prospect  that  through  the  eftbrts  of  a  Fish  Commis- 
sion, which  has  lately  been  established,  the  streams 
Avill  be  opened  up  and  the  salmon  will  return  to  their 
old  haunts. 

HERRING. 

Herring  are  plentiful  and  of  the  finest  quality ;  but 
as  the  cod  is  or  has  been  the  staple  stock  in  trade,  they 
too  have  been  sadly  neglected.  Had  the  herring 
fishery  been  prosecuted  with  as  much  vigor  as  the  cod, 
proper  care  bestowed  on  the  curing  and  packing,  and 


^S 


jHH, 


LOBSTEIi. 


43 


the  whole  placed  under  proper  regulations,  it  migiit 
to-day  approach  the  cod  fishery  in  value.  The  chief 
seats  of  herring  fishing  are  F(jrtune,  Placentia,  St. 
George's,  and  Bay  of  Islands,  and  the  average  annual 
value  is  about  as  follows :  Export,  $358,359.00 ;  sold 
to  French  and  Americans  for  bait,  $150,000.00;  and 
allowing  73,000  barrels  for  home  consumption  at  $3.00 
per  barrel,  gives  us  a  grand  total  of  $727,359.00. 

LOBSTER. 

According  to  the  last  census  (1891)  there  were  then 
340  lobster  flictories,  employing  4,807  persons.  The 
report  of  the  Department  of  Fisheries  for  1893  states 
that  the  total  number  of  lobster  traps  amounted  to 
87,720,  and  that  there  were  caught  5,054,462  lobsters, 
from  which  number  26,214  cases  of  lobsters  (each 
case  containing  forty-eight  one-pound  cans)  were 
packed.  These  returns  apply  only  to  licensed  facto- 
ries ;  besides  there  were  a  large  number  of  unlicensed 
fiictories  on  the  French  shore.  The  total  value  from 
1888  to  1892,  inclusive,  was  $2,067,408.00. 


afiiriiaMiawiiii 


jM 


I  CIIAl^TKU    V. 

I 

1  AfiRICULTUKI-:    JN    i\E^VF()lJNI)LA^'^). 

f 

Tlu;  Soil  Neglected — I'alse  Representations  as  to  its  Value — 
Delay  in  Development  of  Interior — The  Geological  Survey 
sets  Things  Kight— Fertile  River  Valleys — Farm  Products 
in  181)1 — Domestic  Animals. 


\'EN  lip  to  u  compiirativoly  ivcont  ])oriod, 
the  iiiluibitants  wcro  so  busily  ongagod  in 
tlio  fishing  in(histiy  that  no  attention  wliat- 
ever  was  paid  to  the  cuUivation  of  tlie  soil,  and  those 
who  most  profited  by  the  arduous  labors  of  the  fisher- 
men, in  order  to  keep  them  huddled  along  tlie  rugged 
poast,  assiduously  taught  them  to  regard  the  interior 
of  the  island  as  a  hopelessly  barren  waste,  unfit  for 
the  occupancy  of  man.  That  this  is  not  the  case  has 
been  clearly  demonstrated  by  the  geological  survey. 
According  to  its  reports,  there  are  in  the  valleys  on  the 
weastern  coast  1,320  square  miles  ^'perfectly  capable 
of  being  reclaimed  and  converted  into  fairly  produc- 
tive grazing  and  arable  land,"  and  these  valleys  are  as  a 

(44) 


,\(;K'icrLTUKM':  in  nkwfoundland. 


45 


■%.: 


LEADINO    TICKELS,    A    SAMPLE    COAST    TOWN. 

rule  well  wooded.  In  the  great  valleys  of  the  ( riinder, 
Gambo,  Terra  Nova  and  p]xploits  there  are  3,320 
squai-e  miles  of  land  suitable  for  farming,  the  soil  be- 
ing of  a  rich  loam,  composed  of  alluvial  deposit  and  de- 
cayed vegetable  matter.  There  are  also  many  smaller 
fertile  tracts  around  the  heads  of  bays  and  lakes,  and 
along  the  smaller  streams,  making  in  all  not  less  than 
5,000  square  miles  of  land  suitable  for  cultivation. 
The  census  of  1891  showed  that  only  179,215  acres 
were  actually  occupied,  as  follows :  64,494:  acres  of  im- 
proved land,  20,524  acres  in  pasture,  21,813  acres  in 
gardens,  and  6,244  acres  of  improved  land  unoccupie(l. 


mmm 


wttu- 


4(> 


CAIilBOl'   SHOOTING    IN    NEWFOUNDLAND. 


FAH.Nf    PFJODUCTS    FOU    ISOI. 

Tlio  farm  ^)roduct.s  for  1(S!)1  arc  shown  by  tlio  statis- 
tical reports  to  anionnt  to : 

4i)l  bushels  wheat,  ("  $1.00 $491 

12,900  bushels  oats,  @  .50 6,450 

'U;,082  tons  liay,  @  $20.00 720,640 

481,024  barrels  potatoes,  (^  $1.00 481,024 

60,235  barrels  turnips,  @  $1 .00  60,235 

86^411  barrels  other  roots,  (^  $1.00 8(),411 

401, 71()  pounds  butter,  <^ij  .20  83,343 

154,021  pounds  wool,  ^   .20 30,804 

Milk  and  vegetables <.)(),000 

Total $1,562,3<)8 

DOMKSTK"    ANIMALS. 

If  to  this  aggregate  be  added  the  value  of  the 
calves,  sheep,  swine,  horses,  goats  and  fowls  raised 
during  the  same  year,  in  round  numbers  $732,000.00, 
we  have  a  grand  total  of  $2,205,308.00  for  the  agricul- 
tural products  of  the  island  for  the  year  1801.  The 
fact  must  be  taken  into  consideration  that  this  pro- 
duction has  not  been  from  the  interior,  but  from  a 
comparatively  narrow  belt  in  close  proximity  to  the 
coast.  It  is  thus  conclusively  shown  Avhat  the  agri- 
cultural possibilities  of  this  land  of  ''cod-fish  and  fog" 
Avould  be,  if  the  fertile  valleys  of  the  interior  were 
placed  under  proper  cultivation. 


Mm 


ClIAPTi:i{    VI. 


y\ I XKItAL    IlESorHCKS. 


The  ]'irst  Mines — Geological  Distribution  of  the  Copper  Ores 
— Lead  Ore — GypHuni  and  Marbles — Iron  Pyrites  Mine  on 
Pilley's  Island — Asbestos — Coal  Areas — Petroleum. 

IIIJiE  the  lislicrics,  luinlK'i' and  a.i;ricultuml 
products   ai'o    large   and    I'cniunorativo,   the? 
mining  resources  of  the  island  are  destined 
to  eel  ipse  all  others  in  the  near  future. 

TUK    FIRST    MIXES. 

It  s  not  until  1857,  when  Mr.  Smith  i\[eKav  first 
discovered  cop})er  near  a  small  fishing  hamlet  called 
Tilt  Cove,  in  Notre  Dame  Bay,  that  any  attention  was 
l)aid  to  prosi)ecting  for  minerals.  Here  a  mine  was 
opened  in  1864  under  tlie  management  of  Messrs. 
C.  F.  Bennett  and  McKay.  During  tlie  next  fifteen 
years  Tilt  Cove  mine  yielded  over  5(),(J0()  tons  of  cop- 
per ore,  having  a  market  value  of  $1,572,154,  and 
nickel  ore  worth  $32,740.  This  mine  to-day  employs 
an  average  of  about  500  miners.  In  1875  another 
copper  mine  was  opened  at  Belt's  Cove,  a  distance  of 
ten  or  twelve  miles  south  of  Tilt  Cove.     In  four  vears 

(47) 


iHiiiiam 


■iiaiilB 


-■■-'■'    ->-^.- 


48 


CAinilor   SIlooTINC    IN    NKWrorNDLAM). 


tlic  ([iiantity  of  ore  exported  froiu  it  jinioimted  to 
l'2'2,rh){\  tons,  with  ;i  vuliic  of  .f2,l).S2,<S:{C).()().  In  ISTS 
II  still  ricliur  (i('[)osit  was  opuncd  up  at  Littlo  Bay,  near 
Bett's  (V)VO.  V\)  to  1871)  tlic  total  (piantity  of  ores 
exported  from  all  tlicsc  mines  reached  ji  value  of 
#4,02t),<SS<).()(),  or  nearly  ii  million  pounds  sterling. 
This  [daeed  N(  vfoundland,  though  still  in  its  kilts  as 
a  mining  (country,  sixth  among  the  copper  producing 
countries  of  the  world. 


(JKOLOOK'AL    niSTinr.UTION    OF    TnK    COlM'KIi    ()H1<:S. 

The  existence  of  the  serpentine  rocks  in  the  island 
is  a  matter  of  the  utmost  importance,  as  they  belong 
to  what  in  Canadian  geology  is  known  as  the  (^uehec 
(h'onp  of  the  JiOwer  Silurian  series,  and  th<3  middU;  or 
Lau/on  division  of  that  series.  That  division,  accord- 
ing to  Sir  William  Logan,  "  is  the  metalliferous  zone 
of  the  liower  Siluri*^  North  America,  and  rich  in 

copper  ores,  chic"^  a iterstra titled  cupriferous  slates, 

and  is  accompux^ied  l^y  silver,  gold,  nickel  aild 
chromium  ores."  This  Lauzon  division  is  the  one 
Avhich  is  developed  in  Newfoundland,  and  in  which 
all  the  copper  mines  are  located.  The  Government 
Geological  Survey's  report  gives  the  following  truthful 
estimate  of  these  serpentine  mineral-bearing  rocks  of 
the  island,  which  is  sufficient  proof  of  the  existence  of 


K 


(JKOrJKAT'iriCAT.   DISTIJir.ITlON  OF  OK'KS.  41) 

incxlianstihlc  luxllcs  of  valiial)l('  iiiiiicrals,  oxtcndiiijj;    .  - ' 

ovci-  an  area  ()f'r),()l)7  s<|uar('  niik's: 

IJetwivn  Jlan'Jiihl  Pistolct  Hayn 'J.'JO  «<{.  mi. 

North  IVoin  Honnc  lUiy 350  " 

South  IVoin  Hare  IJuy 17.')  '* 

South  IVoin  IJonnc  JJay  I'M)  " 

South  from  liay  of  IhIjukIh 1S2  " 

Surrounding;  Notr(n)ame  Bay 1,400  '* 

Gander  I.aki'and  KiU'r  Country 2,:U0  '' 

Bay  d'Ertt  River 800  '' 

Total  r),0«)7  s(|.  mi. 

While  thuso  remarks  arc  with  special  reference  to 
the  copper  ores  it  must  n(>t  l>e  f'oi-gotten  that  in  the  ' 
metalliferous  zone  Just  referred  to  others,  such  as  as- 
hestos,  nickel,  iron  pyrites,  lead,  and  Iron  ore  are 
found,  and  give  ])romise  of  profitable  ck^vxdopment,  to 
which  special  reference  will  be  made  further  on. 

LEAD  ORE. 

Lead  ore  was  first  discovered  at  La  ^Ei'iiche,  at  the 
northeastern  extremity  of  Placentia  Bay,  where  for 
several  years  workings  have  been  carried  on.  This 
ore  is  rich,  assaying  82  per  cent,  of  metallic  lead,  as 
well  as  a  small  percentage  of  silver. 

GYPSUM    AND    MARliLES. 

The  Geological  Survey's  report  states  that  "gypsum 
is  distributed  more  profusely  and  in  greater  volume 


'M 


BMafttfilMMU 


no 


CAKIBOU  SHOOTING   IN   NEWFOUNDLAND. 


ill  the  ciirboniferous  districts  than  in  any  part  of  the 
continent  of  North  America  of  the  same  extent."  In 
St.  George's  Bay  and  Codroy  the  bodies  of  gypsum 
are  immense.  ^larbies  also  of  every  shade  of  color 
are  found  in  large  (piantiti'^s  on  both  the  eastern  and 
Avestern  shores ;  granite  ol  the  first  (|ualit\%  building 
stones,  wh<"tstones,  stones  suitable  for  grindstones, 
limestone,  and  the  finest  roofing  slate  it  has  been  the 
writer's  pleasure  to  look  upon. 

IRON  PYRlTi:s  MINE  ON   PlLLEv's  ISLAND. 

Our  notes  of  the  mineral  resources  of  Newfoundland 
would   be  ver}'  deficient  were  not  special   reference 


SECTION  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT  AT  PILLEY's  ISLAND  PYRITES  MINE 


I! 


«^ 


ASBESTOS. 


51 


made  to  this  great  mine,  in  whose  beautiful  httle  har- 
bor our  expedition  landed  on  Sunday,  October  14, 
1894.  on  our  journey  to  the  White  Hills.  This  mine 
has  been  worked  for  the  last  ten  years,  and  has  been 
and  3S  at  present  one  of  the  most  valuable  in  the 
island.  The  quality  of  the  pyrites  is  said  to  be  the 
finest  in  the  world,  containing  52  per  cent,  oi  sulphur 
and  42  per  cent,  of  iron,  from  which  is  manufactured 
the  finest  steel.  The  ore  is  mostly  shipped  to  the 
United  States,  where  it  is  used  in  the  manufacture  of 
suli)huric  acid,  copperas  and  fertilizers,  and  the  de- 
mand is  steadily  increasing ;  and  as  there  is  another 
deposit  adjoining  the  present  mine,  should  the  latter 
pinch  out,  the  additional  lode  would  furnish  an 
abundance  for  years  to  come.  The  value  of  iron 
pyrites  exported  to  the  United  States  from  188G  to 
the  end  of  189:>,  according  to  the  Customs  Report, 
reaches  a  total  value  of  .1759,451.00.  The  same  report 
shows  an  aggregate  value  of  f  10,799,080.00  of  all 
minerals  exported  from  the  island,  from  1864  to  the 
en  1  of  1893. 

ASBESTOS. 

This  valuable  mineral  has  been  found  amongst  the 
serpentine  de})osits  in  many  places.  It  occurs  in 
strings  or  threads  of  a  fine,  silky  texture,  traversing 


41 


iii 


52 


CARIBOU  SHOOTING   IN  NEWFOUNDLAND. 


the  masses  of  serpentine  in  all  directions.  On  tlie 
eastern  coast  of  Port-au-rort,  rising  out  of  the  sea  to  a 
nearly  vertical  height  of  1,800  feet,  is  a  mountain 
known  as  Bluff  Plead.  This  mountain  determines  the 
southern  boundary  of  the  serpentine.  It  was  here 
that  asbestos  first  attracted  attention.  Bluff  Head 
Avas  long  known  to  the  fishermen  of  tlie  neighborhood 
as  ^'Cotton  Rock,"  and  the  Hon.  Phihp  Cleary,  of 
St.  John's,  was  the  first  to  equip  a  small  expedition, 
four  years  ago,  to  engage  in  the  work  of  prospecting, 
which  resulted  in  the  finding  of  this  valuable  sub- 
stance. 

COAL   AREAS. 

The  principal  carboniferous  region  of  the  country  is 
St.  George's  Bay,  A\diere  coal  was  discovered  about 
fifty  years  ago  by  Mr.  J.  B.  Jukes,  who  was  for  many 
years  Director  of  the  Irish  Geological  Survey,  and 
who  spent  twelve  months  on  the  island  and  found  a 
coal  seam  three  feet  in  thickness,  containing  cannel 
coal  of  excellent  (juality,  cropping  out  of  the  right 
bank  of  the  Middle  Barachois  Brook,  on  the  south 
side  of  St.  George's  Bay.  His  estimate  of  this  small 
portion  of  tlie  coal  basin  of  Newfoundland  was 
twenty-five  miles  wide  by  ten  miles  in  lengtlh  In 
1873  another  seam  was  discovered  by  Mr.  J.  P.  How- 


t 

'L. 


COAL   aKEAS. 


53 


ley,  F.  G.  S.,  at  present  Director  of  the  (leologicai 
Survey,  on  Robinson's  Brook,  four  feet  in  tliickness, 
very  bituminous  coking  coal,  emitting  mucli  gas  under 
combustion,  and  burning  freely.  He  also  found  an- 
otlier  seam  in  the  same  section,  seventeen  inches 
tliick.  In  18(S9  a  still  more  thorough  examination 
of  this  coal  district  was  made  under  the  direction  of 
Mr.  Howley.  Referring  to  the  report  of  that  year,  it 
8hows  that  altogetlier  fourteen  seams  of  coal,  of  a 
varying  thickness,  from  a  few  inclies  up  to  six  feet, 
were  uncovered  on  one  small  brook;  tlu'ee  on  another 
two  miles  distant,  and  four  on  a  tliird  brook,  still 
fartlier  eastward  some  two  and  one-half  miles.  These 
Avitli  some  smaller  ones  aggregate  a  tliickness  of 
twenty-seven  feet  of  coal  in  the  section,  which  is  re- 
peated by  being  brought  to  the  surface  again  on  the 
other  side  of  the  synclinal  trough.  From  the  above 
condensed  statement  from  official  facts  it  will  be 
readily  seen  that  there  is  not  the  possibility  of  a 
doubt  that  coal  is  abundant  on  the  island ;  and  fur- 
ther, tlie  reader  will  be  surprised  to  learn  that  not- 
withstanding the  presence  of  these  rich  and  extensive 
coal  fields,  none  of  them  have  yet  been  worked,  and 
they  import  from  Cape  Breton  and  Prince  Edward's 
Island  all  the  coal  they  use  at  a:i  annual  expense 
of  about  $250,000.00. 


nn 


.j^aiatmiMi 


■M^ 


iij 


""imt 


54 


CARIBOU  SHOOTING   IN   NEWFOUNDLAND. 


I'ETROLEUM. 

As  Avas  to  be  expected  in  presence  of  all  this  coal, 
indications  of  petroleum  in  paying  quantity  have  been 
observed,  and  will  be  investigated  and  utilized  as  soon 
as  the  people  recover  from  the  present  financial 
troubles.  The  writer,  being  somewhat  familiar  with 
surface  indications  of  petroleum  in  the  great  oil  fields 
of  Pennsylvania,  noticed  in  the  White  Hills  region 
strong  surface  signs,  including  the  presence  of  the  well 
known  pebble  rocks,  and  has  not  the  least  doubt  but 
it  is  only  a  question  of  time  when  Newfoundland  will 
be  a  coal  oil  producing  county. 


Jltti 


-  •>W(eT«'"W!WT*:'^MBiW:'' 


I 


^t^tesja&TjLjjisrjai^ 


CHAPTER   VII. 

(}OVER\>ri:NT    AND    FINANCES. 

Mode  of  Government — Constitution — Powers  of  the  Governor 
—The  Legislature — The  >  reme  Court — Central  District 
Court — Quarter  Sessions—  Failure  in  Administration — 
Commercial  and  Financial  Slavery— A  Gloomy  View — 
From  Boom  to  Crash — The  Outlook — Their  Hope  and 
Prayer. 

EPRESENTATIVE  Government  was 
granted  to  Newfoundland  in  1832.  In 
1855,  after  oft-repeated  applications  by  the 
people,  what  is  known  as  "Responsible  Government" 
was  ceded  to  the  colony,  which  is  simply  the  applica- 
tion of  the  principles  of  the  British  constitution  to  the 
island,  and  provides  that  the  country  should  be  gov- 
erned according  to  the  well  understood  wishes  of  the 
people."  The  party  in  power,  /.  e.,  having  the  major- 
ity in  the  Legislature,  disposes  of  the  principal  offices 
under  the  government,  and  also  elects  the  Executive 
Council.  The  House  of  Assembly  is  elected  by  the 
people,  and  the  Legislative  Council  is  nominated  by 
''the  Governor  in  Council." 

(55) 


■m 


I 


MiMH 


ijMimtmimiiMtiaaaM 


M 


MB 


50 


CAJilBOU   SHOOTING    IN    NIOWFOINDLAND. 


« 


CONSTlTrTION. 

The  form  of  p:()vorninent  consists  of  a  CJovornor 
wlio  is  appointed  l)y  the  Crown  of  England,  and  is 
paid  [I  salary  of  $12,000  a  year  by  the  Colony;  an 
J^]xecntive  Conncil  consisting  of  seven  members  chosen 
by  the  majority  in  the  liCgislature,  at  a  saUuy  of 
$120.00  per  session;  a  Legislative  Council  of  fifteen 
members,  nominated  by  the  (governor  in  Council  and 
holding  office  for  life  at  a  salaiy  of  $120.00  i)er  ses- 
sion ;  and  a  House  of  Assembly  at  [)resent  consisting 
of  thirty-six  members,  elected  by  the  votes  of  the  peo- 
ple every  four  years.  If  they  reside  in  8t.  John's  they 
receive  a  salary  of  $104.00  per  session;  if  resident 
elsewhere,  $201.00.  The  President  receives  $240.00 
and  the  Speaker  of  the  Mouse  of  Assembly  receives 

000.00  per  session. 


rOAVERS    OF    THE    (JOVERNOK. 


The  ( Governor  is  Commander-in-Chief  over  the  col- 
ony, and  has  the  power  in  the  Queen's  name  to  com- 
mute sentences  of  courts  of  justice  ;  to  summon,  open, 
prorogue,  and  on  occasions  dissolve  the  local  Parlia- 
ment ;  to  give  or  withhold  assent  to,  or  reserve  for  the 
Royal  consideration,  all  bills  which  have  passed  both 
Chambers. 


iw^nrpt^nV-T 


p-M'-V- ■)«/.*•* 


CENTRAL   DISTRICT  COURT. 


57 


TJIK    LK(STSLATURE. 


The  Jiegiskituro  must  meet  once  a  year,  and  is 
nsually  summoned  "for  tlie  dispatch  of  business"  in 
tlie  month  of  February. 


SUPREME    COURT. 

A  Supreme  Court  was  instituted  in  1S2G  by  tlie 
promulgation  of  a  Royal  Charter.  To  it  and  to  the 
magistrates  belong  the  correct  interpretation  and 
proper  enforcement  of  the  laws.  It  is  composed  of  a 
Chief  Justice  and  two  Assistant  Judges;  it  holds  two 
terms  or  sessions  each  year,  on  May  20th  and  Novem- 
ber 20th.  There  are  also  circuits  of  the  Supreme 
Court  held  in  the  northern,  southern  and  western  dis- 
tricts of  the  island  at  such  times  and  places  as  may  be 
fixed  by  proclamation  of  the  Governor.  These  are 
presided  over  by  the  Chief  Justice  or  one  of  the  As- 
sistant Judges,  in  rotation.  The  yearly  salary  of  the 
Chief  Justice  is  $5,000.00,  and  of  each  Assistant  Judge 
$4,000.00;  they  hold  their  appointments  for  life. 

CENTRAL    DISTRICT    COURT. 

The  Central  District  Court  is  a  Court  of  Records, 
held  in  the  capital,  St.  John's,  for  the  adjudication  of 
civil  causes,  and  sits  whenever  business  requires. 
There  are  two  Judges  appointed  by  the  Governor  in 


rm^mmmmmmtimifmmmmmi^ 


1 

MHiMiiiliutiM 


58 


CARIBOU   SJIOOTINO    IN    NEWFOUNDLAND. 


Council,  and  a  Slicrilt*  for  cacli  Judicial  district,  who 
is  also  a|)j)()intcd  by  the  Govoruor. 

(ilAUTIlK  SKSSIONS. 

( V)urts  of  general  and  ([uarter  sessions  are  held  in 
such  [)laces  as  may  be  determined  by  the  proclama- 
tion of  the  rjovernor,  and  are  presided  over  by  stipen- 
diary magistrates  or  Justices  of  the  i)eace. 

This  completes  and  rounds  out  the  system,  which  is 
well  enough  in  form,  but  as  everything  depends  upon 
administration,  the  best  foi'ms  fail  when  worked  in 
the  interest  of  others  than  the  governed. 


COMMKROIAL  AND   FINANCIAL  SLAVERY. 

From  the  foregoing  sketch  of  the  governmental 
forms,  it  is  easy  to  see  that  the  enjoyment  of  even  the 
measure  of  liberty  ostensibly  allowed  to  the  people  is 
at  tlie  mercy  of  the  administration,  and  at  last  of  the 
Crown.  The  real  power  is  wielded  from  the  other 
side  of  the  water.  How  it  was  used  in  the  past  avo 
have  already  shown  ;  the  Newfoundlanders  were  sheep 
in  the  hands  of  the  _H>ritish  shearers.  The  native  or 
resident  population  (wlien  at  length  permitted  to 
reside)  caught  fish,  and  their  masters  took  and  sold 
the  catch,  allowing  the  fishermen  enough  to  keep 
them  alive.     Of  course  in  the  world  of  to-day  that 


m 


TT',  *'  »*'r**!|  ;*■ 


A   GLOOMY    VIEW 


ry,) 


could  not  last  among  }k'()J)1(,' of  Saxon  hlood;  hence 
reform,  relaxation  of  re[)ressive  law,  ''r(S[)on.sil)le  gov- 
ernment." But  the  situation  is  changed  more  in 
appearance  th,  n  in  reality.  Modern  methods  have 
changed  what  was  robbery  into  various  foi-ms  of 
swindling.  Wliere  a  |)eoi)loare  thus  held  in  commer- 
cial slavery,  morality  in  business  and  i)olitics  will  not 
touch  high-water  mark;  where  goverimient  is  admin- 
istered with  the  ulterior  object  of  enriching  the  few  at 
the  expense  of  tlu;  many,  it  sur[)rises  no  thoughtful 
mind  that  the  lesson  of  example  is  learned,  and  those 
Avho  are  })reyed  upon  too  often  turn  to  prey  upon  one 
another.  The  recent  financial  history  of  Newfound- 
land  is  a  case  in  jjoint.  Since  we  came  home,  in 
December,  181)4,  the  island  experienced  a  Hnancial 
cyclone  whose  wreckage  will  leave  marks  for  years. 

A  OLOOMV   VIEW. 

One  of  their  Avritcrs  puts  it  strongly  under  date  of 
January  oOtli,  1895:  "Newfoundland  to-day  is  a 
country  without  banks,  without  currency,  with(  ut 
credit.  Its  commerce  and  trade  are  shattered,  its 
population  reduced  to  hopeless  misery."  Making  due 
allowance  for  over-statement  natural  to  too  close  a 
view-point,  there  remains  only  too  much  underlying 
fact.     The  difficulty  about  the  French  fishery  rights 


w^ 


j.  it: 


m 


Hg^^H^ 


00 


CAKIBOU  SirOOTIXG   IN   NEWForNDLAXD. 


we  have  moiitioiicd.  Friincc  jn'otuctcMl  Ijcr  fishcrnion 
by  a  hountv,  wliicli  drove  tlie  NewfoundlaiKk'i'.s  out 
of  European  ports;  eflbrts  to  secure  protection  from 
the  lioin(;  governnuMit  failed,  because  it  seemed  to  the 
]^ritish  ca})itaHst  tliat  his  interest  hiy  in  putting  and 
keeping  the  fisliermen  at  tlie  mercy  of  a  few  nua-cliants 
— and  tliere  they  are,  under  tlie  ''truck  system,"  a 
rehc  of  ancient  bju-barism,  just  a  hundred  per  cent, 
worse  than  the  "grub  stake"  of  the  miners  in  the 
United  States.  The  merchants,  having  skinned  the 
fishermen,  are  subjected  to  the  same  process  at  the 
hands  oi their  masters;  it  seems  they  have  been  losing 
money  for  ten  years  past,  in  the  vain  struggle  with 
French  bounty-fed  competition.  Meanwhile  the  pro- 
fessional pohtician  comes  to  the  front,  fomenting  strife 
between  factions  while  he  gnaws  all  the  marrow  from 
the  bone  of  contention.  Scarcity  of  currency  added 
to  the  difficulty. 


FROM  BOOM  TO  CRASH. 

The  fire  that  almost  destroyed  St.  John's  in  181)2 
put  some  five  million  dollars  of  insurance  and  relief 
funds  in  circulation,  and  thus  started  a  "boom"  of 
fictitious  prosperity;  but  this  was  only  superficial, 
and  the  crisis,  inevitable  in  such  conditions,  came  in 
the   winter  of  '94-95.     When    the   two   prominent 


-^S^ML*;-^;.. 


THE  Ol'TLOOK. 


61 


hanks,  the  Union  and  Conmu'rcial,  went  to  tlu;  wall, 
tlio  exposure  was  sinii)ly  iunazin;^.  Tlie  former  had 
overdrafts  aggrej^ating  more  than  two  millions,  half  of 
it  stan(hng  against  accounts  of  direcrtors;  tlu^  latter 
liad  overdrawn  accounts  of  the  same  amount,  half  to 
directors,  one  of  whom  had  $657,000.  The  comhined 
capital  of  the  two  hanks  was  hut  !|800,00().  What 
wonder  that  the  ensuing  crash  left  conchtions  such  as 
descrihed  in  oin*  quotation  ahove?  Verily,  the  honest 
native  Newfoundlander,  who  creates  the  wealth  of  the 
country,  has  ''fallen  among  thieves!" 

Till-:  OUTLOOK. 

What  will  he  the  outcome?  No  man  knows.  The 
animals  of  those  who  have  the  ear  of  the  English 
capitalists,  and  through  them  of  the  home  govern- 
ment, is  well  shown  in  the  following  from  the  St. 
John's  correspondence  of  tne  New  York  World: 

''The  widespread  ruin  and  mystery  that  resulted 
need  not  be  dwelt  upon.  Suffice  it  to  say  that  it 
crippled  the  country  and  beggared  its  people.  The 
people  are  now  getting  themselves  together  again,  the 
merchants  are,  to  all  intents  and  purposes,  swept 
away,  and  knowing  that  they  nuist  depend  upon 
themselves  in  future,  the  fishermen  are  preparing 
to  prosecute    their   industry  with  the  best  resources* 


mma^m 


(\2 


("AKIHor   SIIOOTINCJ    IN   NEWFOUNDLAND. 


tlioy  Imvc  j;ot,  aiKr  wo  luivo   fnitli    in   the   uliinmto 
result. 

'Mt  bociiino  a  uvdiiw  of  <q-oat  diflicultv  to  obtain 
money  to  meet  the  interest  on  tlie  i)ul)li('  dchl,  due 
lJeeend)er  ,^1,  witliout  nieetin<'-  which  we  should 
have  become  insolvent,  it  was  finally  secun.'d,  at  a 
great  sacrifice,  and  then,  having  breathing  space,  tlie 
Government  sought  the  aid  of  Kngland  to  guai'antee 
interest  on  a  loan  to  complete  our  railway,  which  had 
to  be  stopped  when  tlu*  .'rash  came. 

''She  refused  to  hel[)  us,  unless  we  accepted  an  un- 
conditional Royal  ('onnnission.  This  our  Govern- 
ment would  not  do,  fearing  we  should  be  made  a 
Crown  colony. 

''Then  we  turned  to  Canada,  whi(;h  has  for  twenty- 
five  years  been  tempting  us  to  join  the  Confederation, 
and  sought  terms  of  admission  from  her.  Unaided 
she  could  not  assume  the  whole  burden  of  our  public 
debt,  115,000,000.  She  would  take  two-thirds  of  it, 
and  requested  England  to  assume  the  remainder. 
But  again  England  refused  and  blocked  a  second 
avenue  of  escape  for  us. 

''This  compelled  us  to  adopt  the  last  resort  and 
appeal  to  the  liberty-loving  and  large-hearted  people 
of  the  United  States.  Colonial  Secretary  Bond  is  now 
endeavoring  to  secure  a  loan  there  to  enable  us  to  tide 


m 


THKIU   HOPE  AM)    rK'AVKK. 


i 


over  our  (liiriciillics.  I'lii^^hmd's  cnniity  is  iiuniif'cst. 
SIh'  is  tlirowini;'  cvcrv  ()])sliicU'  in  tlic  wav  to  in-cvcnt 
our  siiccLHMlinji".  llcr  olijcct  is  to  prevent  us  from 
securing  lielp  al)i'o;i(l  jukI  .soconijx'l  us  to  l);nikrupt  on 
.luneoO,  wlieu  ()\u*  next  lialt'-vearlv  interest  Ueeonies 
due.  Then  slio  will  revoke  oin*  charter  of.selt-govern- 
nient  and  reduce  us  to  a  Crown  colony." 

THEIIJ    IIOTE    AM)    IMJAVKR. 

And  tliis  in  the  end  of  tlie  nincjteenth  century, 
under  the  electric  light,  at  the  hands  of  tlie  ( Jovern- 
ment  of  Tier  Majesty,  Victoria  the  TJood!  Can  it  ])e 
wondered  at  that  the  islanders  are  unwilling  to  trust 
the  Oown,  or  even  federation  into  the  Dominion,  but 
look  with  laying  ho})0  for  the  great  llei)ul)lic  to  reach 
northward  and  take  North  >Vmerica  from  the  St. 
Lawrence  to  l^afhn's  Bay  under  the  protection  of  the 
Stars  and  Stripes?  This  feeling  was  manifest  to  us  in 
the  ''open  sesame"  eflect  of  the  name  of  Anuu'ican 
wiierever  it  was  heard.  To  be  sure  we  have  our 
financial  crashes  and  crises,  but  we  have  not  yet  been 
reduced  to  the  commercial  sla>^ery  that  has  nearly 
crushed  our  island  neighbors. 


#■ 


CHAPTER   VIII 


EDUCATK     . 

Academies  — Colleges-Pupil  Teac.iers— London  University 
Centre —Jubilee  Scholarship  —  Council  of  Higher  Edu- 
cation. 

REVIOUS   to  the  year  1823  no  organized 
attention  was  paid  to  education  in  the  col- 
ony.    The  people  were  poor,  and  it  required 
a   hard   struggle    for   daily    bread.     The   settlements 
were  small,  widely  separated,  and  physical  wants  were 
too  pressing  to  permit  scarcely  any  attempt  at  the 
education  of  tlie  rising  generation,  and,  as  a  matter  of 
fact,  they  grew   up   without   the   first   rudiments  of 
kn()w^•u.,e  outside  of  their  vocation  of  capturing  cod 
and  seal.     The  beginning  of  connnon  school  educa- 
tion  dates   from    1823,    wlien    "The    Newfoundland 
School  Society"  was  founded  in  London  by  Samuel 
Codner,  a  Newfoundland  merchant.     Afterwards  its 
name  Avas  changed  to  "The  Colonial  and  Continental 
Clun-ch  Society."     The  schools  it  planted  were  main- 
tained by  the  hberality  of  its  members  unaided  until 
1843,  when  tlie  Legislature  granted  an  annual  sum  of 
?5,100  for  the  promotion  of  common  school  educa- 

(64) 


urn 


LONDON   UNIVERSITY  CENTKE. 


65 


ill 


tion.  In  tlie  same  year  the  same  body  made  pro- 
vision for  higher  education  by  estabhshing  an  acad- 
emy in  St.  John's.  This  did  not  succeed,  and  was 
abandoned  in  1850.  In  its  |)lace  tlu-ee  academies 
were  founded,  on  tlie  denominational  principle,  and 
at  a  later  date  a  fourth  was  established. 

COLLEGES. 

These  four  schools,  which  are  connected  respectively 
with  the  four  different  religious  denominations,  have 
expanded,  and  done  much  toward  the  education  of 
the  people.  They  are  conducted  by  teachers  of  abil- 
ity and  character,  and  give  excellent  training.  At 
the  present  time  they  are  known  as  the  Roman 
Catholic  College,  Church  of  England  College,  Metho- 
dist and  Presb^^terian  Colleges  respectively.  The  two 
last  named  lost  their  Ijuildings  in  the  great  fire  of 
1892,  but  the  Methodist  buildings  have  been  restored, 
and  are  more  spacious  and  better  equipped  than  those 
destroyed.  The  Presbyterian  College  has  also  been 
rebuilt,  and  now  occupies  its  new  building. 

PUPIL    TEACHERS LONDON    UNIVERSITY    CENTRE. 

The  training  of  teachers  is  one  of  the  imi)ortant 
features  of  these  colleges.  They  must  pass  rigid  ex- 
aminati(3ns  and  are  graded  according  to  merit  before 


i 


■MM 


66 


CAIUBOU  SHOOTING   IN  NEWFOUNDLAND. 


they  are  permitted  to  take  cluirge  of  nchools.  Students 
are  also  prepared  for  tlie  Universities,  and  St.  John's 
lias  heen  made  a  eentre  of  the  London  University,  so 
that  pupils  can  here  prepare  for  and  pass  the  matri- 
culation examinations  which  admit  them  to  that  old 
and  lionored  instituticjn. 


JUBILEE   SCHOLARSHIP. 

As  a  futher  incentive  to  those  who  aspire  to  higher 
education,  -The  Newfoundland  Jubilee  Scholarship" 
has  been  founded.  The  Governor  in  Council  appro- 
priates an  annual  sum  of  |480.0()  for  the  institution 
of  a  scholarship  in  the  London  University,  to  be  given 
to  the  student  who  shall  take  the  highest  percentage 
among  competitors  in  and  from  the  colony  at  the 
matriculation  examinations  held  in  June  and  January 
of  each  year. 

COUNCIL   OP    HIGHER   EDUCATION. 

In  1893  an  act  was  passed  ''to  provide  for  Higher 
Education."  This  act  provides  for  the  appoint- 
ment of  a  Council  to  consist  of  twenty-three  mem- 
bers, and  makes  the  Superintendents  of  Educa- 
tion and  Headmasters  of  Colleges  members  ex  officio. 
The  sum  of  |4,000.00  is  appropriated  annually  to 
carry  out  the  provisions  of  the  act,  and  the  Jubilee 


COUNCIL  OF   HIGHER  EDUCATION. 


a 


>i 


Hcholarsliip   is    subject   to   the   regulations    of    this 
Council. 

The  governmental  appropriation  in  1893  for  col- 
leges, grammar  and  elementary  schools,  was  |151,- 
891.22.  Of  this  amount  the  conmion  or  elementary 
schools  received  |97,753.15;  pupil  teachers,  J5,G10.84; 
encouragement  of  teachers,  $25,297.87;  inspectors, 
10,000.00. 

Tlie  number  of  common  schools  in  1893  was  as  fol- 
lows: CI  lurch  of  England,  194,  Avith  an  attendance  of 
11,808;  Church  of  Rome,  200,  witli  an  attendance  of 
10,205;  Methodist,  144,  with  an  attendance  of  8,405; 
Presbyterian,  Congregational  and  others  10,  Avitli  an 
attendance  of  290  —  making  a  total  of  33,834  pupils 
attending  the  common  or  elementary  schools,  wliich, 
wdien  added  to  the  number  of  pupils  attending  the 
different  colleges,  makes  a  grand  total  of  34,557  pupils 
attending  schools. 


CHAPTER   IX 


■  I 


TKANSPOKTATION. 

Roads  Unknown  to  Early  Settlers-Selfish  Policy  of  Mother 
Country— Fences  and  Chimneys  Prohibited— Reform  Be- 
gins in  1813-First  Road  in  lS25-Road  Grant  in  1832- 
Road  Building  Leads  to  Discovery  of  Minerals-Geological 
Survey-A^sions  of  Railways   Looming  up-Sir  William 
Whiteway's  Scheme-First  Railway  Contract   in  1881- 
First  Sod  Cut-Li  the  Hands  of  a  Receiver-Change  of 
Government  and  Railway  Extension-Sir  William  Again 
at   the   Helm-A   New  Survey-Northern   and   Western 
Railway-Railway  Extension  Means  More  Common  Roads 
-Mails  by  Railway-Route  of  Railway-Newfoundland 
no  Longer  an  Island. 

N  no  other  conntry  whose  discovery  dates 
l)ack  as  far  as  Newfoundland  has  the  mate- 
rial and  social  advancement  of  the  people 
been  so  seriously  retarded  by  the  want  of  roads.  The 
oi  1,-inal  settlement  of  the  island  took  place  entirely  in 
connection  with  the  fisheries.  The  gathering  of  the 
abundant  and  valuable  iiarvest  from  the  tempestuous 
sea  was  the  only  industry  attempted  or  contemplated. 
Around  tlie  rock-bound  coast,  in  little  secluded  coves 
and  harbors,  the  fishermen   (chiefly  from   England, 

(  68  ) 


TKANSPOKTATION. 


()d 


Ireland  and  Scotland)  colleetod  in  small  liandots  and 
villages,  in  snch  localities  as  were  best  p.dapted  for 
catching,  drying  and  sliip})ing  fish.  Thus  distributed 
along  the  coast,  they  were  generally  widely  separated, 
and  intercourse  was  maintained  mostly  by  sea,  or  by 
rude  paths  through  the  Avoods  and  rocks  between 
neighboring  settlements.  Had  the  clearing  and  culti- 
vation of  the  soil  been  combined  with  fishing,  the 
construction  of  roads  would  have  become  an  absolute 
necessity;  but  the  selfish  })olicy  established  by  the 
mother  country,  at  the  bidding  of  the  English  capital- 
ists who  carried  on  the  fisheries,  effectively  prevented 
colonization.  That  policy  was  to  keej)  the  island 
solely  as  a  fishing  station,  in  order  to  train  seamen  for 
the  British  navy.  All  grants  of  land  were  prohibited, 
the  cultivation  of  the  soil  wiis  made  a  penal  offense, 
and  for  a  long  time  a  most  vigorous  attempt  was  made 
to  make  the  fishermen  migratory  by  carrying  them 
home  at  the  close  of  each  season  to  return  the  follow- 
ing summer.  In  1790  one  of  the  (Jovernors  publicly 
announced  that  he  ''was  directed  not  to  allow  any 
possession  as  private  property  to  be  acknowledged  in 
any  land  whatever  which  is  not  actually  employed  in 
fishery."  In  1799  Governor  Waldegrave  ordered 
fences  which  had  been  erected,  enclosing  a  piece  of 
ground,  to  be  torn  down,  and  prohibited  chimneys 


__g^ 


^"^w 


I  yfjji: 


70 


C'AHIBOi;   SJI0()T1\(J    IN   .NEWFOL'NDLAXD. 


even  in  tlic  tcnipomiy  slieds  used  for  slielk'rino-  the 
fishcniion.  Tlmugli  tlio  pro-r^ss  of  tlie  colony  was 
thus  pro  vented  and  discouraged  iu  every  conceivable 
manner,  the  sturdy  pioneers  held  their  ground,  or 
rather  rocks,  on  tlie  coast,  and  increased  iii  nund')ers 
until  in  1813. 

THE    DAWX    Al'PKARKI). 

The  foolish,  cruel  and  selHsh  laws  were  relaxed,  and 
grants  of  land  to  settlers  were  for  the  Hrst  time' i,er- 
mitted.  Agriculture,  on  a  small  scale,  immediately 
began  in  close  [)roximity  to  each  settlement.  The 
settlers  found  in  a  short  time  that  the  argument  used 
l>y  those  who  were  interested  in  keeping  the  country 
imsettled,  that  the  climate  and  soil  were  wholly  un- 
suited  to  agriculture,  was  a  malicious  falsehood  n'lanu- 
factured  out  of  the  whole  cloth. 


i  W 


KOAD    .MAK1X(}    BKGTX^S. 

It  was  soon  found  that  little  progress  could  be 
made  in  the  cultivation  of  the  soil  until  roads  were 
constructed.  The  year  1825  was  made  memorable  by 
the  building  of  the  first  road,  nine  miles  in  length, 
from  St.  John's  to  Portugal  CV)vo,  on  the  southern 
shore  of  Conception  Bay.  On  the  opposite  shore  of 
this  bay  were  the  thriving  towns  of  Harbour  Grace, 


ROAD   MAK1N(J    BEGINS. 


71 


1 

i 

1^ 

r  i 

m 

1 

Curbonoiir  unci  liri.i»us,  tlio  centres  of  a  considerable 
l)oi)ulati()n.  I>y  establishing  a  regular  system  of 
boats  to  cross  this  bay,  carrying  niails  and  i)assengers, 
a  route  was  establislied  by  whicli  nearly  half  the 
poi)ulation  in  the  country  were  provided  with  an  im- 
perfect means  of  connnunication. 

To  Sir  Thomas  (Cochrane,  then  Governor,  belongs 
the  distinguished  honor  of  introducing  this  important 
stej)  in  the  furtherance  of  civilization.  He  also  con- 
structed a  road  to  Torbay,  a  village  nortli  of  St. 
John's;  and  a  third  along- a  beautiful  vallev  throudi 
which  Hows  a  small  stream  falling  into  St.  John's 
harbor  at  a  i)oint  now  known  as  Waterford  JJridge. 

This  beginning  of  road  making  took  place  oidy 
seventy  >'ears  ago,  but  the  progress  made  has  been 
most  remarkable.  Year  after  vear  roads  radiatinu" 
from  St.  John's  in  various  directions  were  built,  aloni;: 
which  farms  and  neat  farndiouses  soon  became  visi- 
ble. One  of  these  roads  extends  first  to  Topsail  on 
Conception  Bay,  thence  to  Holyrood,  at  the  liead  of 
the  bay,  and  further  on  to  Salmonier,  St.  Marv's  and 
Placentia. 

When  representative  government  was  establislied 
in  1832,  an  annual  grant  was  voted  for  making  and 
repairing  roads  and  bridges,  and  of  late  years  over 
$150,000   per  annum   have  been   expended  for   this 


5 


■■'■■ "*— 


J 


i'l 


CAKIBOi:  SHOOTING    IX   NKWFOrNDLANI). 


purpose.  The  (imit  Northern  Mail  roud  for  estab- 
lishing conununication  witli  the  pe()i)le  of  the  nortli- 
ern  bays  was  begun  and  puslicd  to  completion,  and  at 
the  present  writing  there  are  about  1,000  miles  of  pos- 
tal roads  and  2,000  miles  of  district  roads. 


1-    J-    V 

ii.  !:  1^ 

I  r 


KOAD     BITILOTNG     LEADS      To     THK     DISCOVKKY     OF      MIN- 
ERALS  vV    (JEOLOGICAL   sriiVEY. 

As   road    building   necessitated    surveys   into   and 
through  the  interior,  as   avcII  as  the   disturbance   of 
tlie    rock    and    earth    in    numerous    places,    it    led 
to  the  discovery  of  minerals,  and  finally  (in  1804)  to 
the  establishment  of  a  most  efficient  Geological  Sur- 
vey.    Sir    William    Logan,  the  eminent  geologist  of 
Canada,  was  applied  to,  avIio  nominated  ^[r.  Alexan- 
der Murray,  who  had  been  his  efficient  assistant  for 
twenty  years,  to  take  charge  of  tlie  work.     He  prose- 
cuted it  for  over  twenty  years,  and  it  has  been  con- 
tinued with  commendable  zeal  by  his  able  assistant, 
Mr.  James  Howley,  up  to  tlie  present  time. 

VLSIONS    OF    RATLWAYS    LOOMINC}    UP. 

Thus,  after  being  a  mere  fishing  station  for  250 
years,  without  farms  or  roads,  the  fringe  along  the 
coast  was  intersected  Avitli  public  highways,  the  cul- 
tivation of  the  soil  was  making  some  progress,  and 


VISIONS   OF    Iv'AII.WAYS    LO0MIN(;    UP. 


7.S 


manv  of  sturdy  ''old  salts"  were  inakihi;'  tliciiisolvos 
coiiitbrtabk'  lionics,  and  while  tlicv  were  hravin^'  the 
l)ill()\vs  on  th(^  hanks  and  their  fish  were  drying  on 
the  flakes,  the  fertile  i2,round  was  growing  crops.  In- 
stead of  reai)ing  the  harvest  from  the  sea  alone,  the 
land  also  contri])uted  to  the  sui)[)ort  of  themselves 
and  little  ones,  and  the  one  avocation  interfered  hut 
little  with  the  other. 

About  this  time  a  i)roposition  was  made  by  ^Fr. 
f^anford  FlcMuing,  Kngineer-in-('hief  of  Canadian  rail- 
ways, Avhich  helped  to  start  the  ])ublic  mind  to  think- 
ing of  the  possibility  oi'  constructing  a  railway  across 
the  island.  He  published  a  paper  in  Avhich  he  advo- 
cated that  the  shortest  route  between  America  and 
JMigland  was  across  Newfoundland.  He  suggested  a 
fast  line  of  steamers  from  Valentia,  Ireland,  to  St. 
John's,  Newfoundland,  carrying  only  })assengers, 
mails  and  light  express  goods.  Tlience  he  proposed 
to  build  a  railway  across  the  island  to  St.  (Jeorge's 
Bay,  where  another  swift  line  of  steamers  would  i)ly 
to  Shippegan,  in  the  Bay  of  Chaleur,  Avliere  connec- 
tion with  American  railways  Avould  be  obtained.  He 
calculated  that  the  ocean  passage  would  not  exceed 
four  days,  and  that  passengers  from  London  would 
reach  New  York  in  seven  days.  So  convincing  were 
his  arguments  that  the  Newfoundland  Legislature  ap- 

6 


74 


CAKIHOU  8H()()TIN(J   IN   NKWFOLNDLAND. 


jiropriiited  a  sum  of  money  for  u  prulimiiuiry  surviy 
Avhicli  was  made  in  1875  undor  tlio  diivction  of  Mr. 
Fleming.  Two  years  tlicn  elapsed  before  any  other 
steps  were  taken.  At  len^^th,  Sir  William  White- 
way,  Premier  of  the  colony,  to  whom  belongs  the 
honor,  of  not  only  introducing  the  railway  syst(3m 
in  the  face  of  the  most  bitter  opposition,  but  of  perse- 
veringly  carrying  it  out  for  more  than  fourteen  years 
as  a  prominent  feature  of  his  policy — luidertook  to 
grapj)le  with  the  matter  in  earnest.  His  first  experi- 
ment was  (following  the  lines  drawn  by  Mr.  Fleming) 
to  otter  an  annual  subsidy  of  $120,000.00  and  liberal 
land  grants  along  the  line  to  any  companv^  that 
would  construct  and  operate  a  line  across  the  island, 
to  be  connected  by  steamers  with  P^ngland  on  the  one 
side,  and  on  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  on  the  other 
with  Canadian  railways.  The  imperial  government, 
however,  refused  to  sanction  this  policy  on  the  ground 
that  it  might  be  regarded  by  the  French  as  an  in- 
fringement of  their  fishing  rights,  which  were  secured 
by  treaty,  on  the  west  coast  where  the  terminus  would 
be.     This  project,  therefore,  had  to  be  abandoned. 

Two  more  years  elapsed,  when  Sir  William  con- 
ceived the  idea  of  building  a  narrow-gauge  road  suited 
to  local  requirements,  and  to  be  known  as  the  Hall's 
Bay  line.     The  resolutions  which  he  submitted  to  the 


FIRST    IJAILWAY   CONTRACT. 


73 


House  of  Assembly  proposed  the  construction  of  a 
road  from  St.  .lolin's,  the  ciH)it}d,  to  I  full's  Bay,  the 
centi'c  of  tlui  miisiiig  region,  with  hnniehes  to  ITar- 
bour  (Jnice  and  ])rigus,  the  total  length  of  whic^h 
wouhl  be  about  o  10  miles.  Sucli  a  line  would  open 
up  for  settlement  the  large  areas  of  good  lands  and 
valuable  timber  districts  already  referred  to  in  the 
valleys  of  the  (uunbo.  Terra  Nova,  (iandin*  and  Ex- 
ploits, and  connect  the  mining  rc^gion  with  the  capi- 
tal. A  joint  committee  of  both  houses  of  the  Legis- 
lature was  appoint(Hl  to  consider  the  proposition. 
Their  report  concluded  by  recommending  the  })assago 
of  an  act  authorizing  a  loan  of  the  amount  required 
to  construct  the  line,  within  the  limits  of  one  million 
pounds  sterling,  and  in  sums  not  exceeding  half  a 
million  of  dollars  in  any  one  year.  This  report  was 
adopted  by  the  Legislature  by  an  ovei'whelming  ma- 
jority. Railway  commissioners  were  appointed  and 
engineers  were  employed,  and  during  the  summer 
and  autumn  of  1880  a  })reliminary  survey  of  the 
southern  portion  of  the  proposed  line  was  made,  and 
this  led  to  the 

FIRST    RAILWAY    CONTRACT    IN    THE    COLONY. 

When  the  Legislature  met  in  1881  the  tender  of  an 
American  syndicate  for   building  the  road   was  ac- 


7G 


CAKIIJOU  SHOOTING  IN  NEWFOUNDLAND. 


c'optcd.     ^riu3  l('a(liii«;-  rcatinvs  of  tlic  contract  were  a8 
follows:  A  line  of  nnrn)\v--auo(.  vund  (3  feet,  0  inches) 
from  St.  John's  to  Hall's  Bay,  with  branches  to  Bri^nis 
and     llarhonr   Grace,    a   distance   estimated    at   lUO 
miles;  steel  rails;  a  money  snbsidy  of  $1 80,0( )().()()  to 
be  paid  half-yeai'ly  by  the  (Jovermnent  for  thirty-five 
years,  conditional  on   the  elhcient  maintenance  and 
oi)eration  of  the  line-  and  as  each  five  miles  are  com- 
pleted and  approved,  land    -rants   of  five   thonsand 
acres  pel  mile  of  oood  land  to  be  secured  to  the  com- 
pany in  alternate  blocks  along-  the  line  in  (luantities 
of  one  mile  in  length  and  eight  miles  in  de])th,  and  if 
good  land  c!ould  not  be  obtained  along  the  line  it  was 
to  be  selected  elsewhere. 


fll 

IP' 


FIRST    SOJJ>    CUT. 

The  first  sod  was  turned  on  August  9th,  1 881,  and 
by  September,  1 882,  thirty-five  miles  were  completed 
and  in  running  order,  one  hundred  miles  were  lo- 
cated, and  the  remainder  under  survey.  By  Novem- 
ber, 1884,  the  line  was  completed  and  open  for  traffic 
between  St.  John's  and  Harbour  Grace,  a  distance  of 
eighty-three  and  one-half  miles. 

IN   THE    HANDS   OF   A    RECEIVER. 

Soon  after  the  Newfoundland   Railway  Comi)any 
failed    and    all    Avork   was   stopped.     The   company 


CHANGK  OP  (JOVEUNMKNT. 


77 


fjiilcd  to  C()iin>l('(r  tlicir  coiitract  and  the  lino  passed 
into  the  hands  of  a  ivccivci'  on  hchalf  of  certain  stock- 
lioldei's  in  England,  and  under  this  arrangement  it 
has  been  satisfat  ')rily  operated  up  to  tlu^  present 
time. 


i 


CIfAN(iE    OF    (iOVEKNMKNT   AM)    EXTENSION    OK   THE 

KAIIAVAV. 

Tn  1885  a  change  of  goverimient  took  jdaee,  and 
Sir  Robert  'riio))urn  became  Pnnnier.  Not  discour- 
aged by  tlie  failure  of  his  predecessors,  he  and  his  col- 
leagues in  188G  began  the  construction  of  a  branch 
twenty-seven  miles  in  length,  from  Wiiitbourne  Junc- 
tion to  l*lacentia,  the  old  French  capital,  which  they 
completed  and  opened  in  18SG.  This  brought  the  in- 
habitants in  and  around  Placentia  Bay  not  only  in 
touch  with  each  other  but  with  St.  John's,  the  capi- 
tal,  and  proved  to  be  a  great  benefit  to  the  whole 
south(.Tn  and  western  shores  of  the  bay.  The  loco- 
motive, the  great  civilizer  in  all  con  itries,  had  now 
gotten  such  a  foothold  that  it  mattered  not  which  of 
the  political  factions  got  the  reins  of  the  government, 
the  work  of  railroad  building  was  sure  to  proceed. 

The  np-country  people  were  still  clamoring  for 
their  section  and  the  northern  extension  to  Hall's 
Bay,  the  great  mining  centre,  and  seven  miles  of  the 
Placentia  extension  were  available  for  this  purpose. 


^tm 


If  r  ^ 


78 


CAIilBOlT  SHOOTING   IN  NEWFOUNDLAND. 


The  government  decided  tliat  the  hne  should  be 
built,  and,  in  1889,  the  Legislature  passed  a  Eailway 
Extension  Act  of  a  liberal  character  Avith  scarcely  a 
dissenting  voice,  which  pledged  the  Government  to 
make  a  survey  of  the  line  to  Hall's  Bay  that  same 
year,  and  to  at  once  begin  the  construction  of  the 
road  at  a  rate  of  not  less  than  twenty-five  miles  a 
year.  Before  winter  set  in  some  fifteen  miles  of 
this  railroad  from  Placentia  Junction  northward 
were  built. 


SI  :    WILLIAM    AGAIN    AT   THE    HELM. 

At  the  November  election  in  1889,  the  White way- 
ites  again  became  victorious.     Sir  William  again  be- 
came Premier,  and  soon  showed  that  he  had  lost  none 
of  his  former  confidence  in   railway  extension   as   a 
means  of  developing  the  varied  resources  of  the  col- 
ony.    In  1890  the  Legislature  passed  an  act  provid- 
ing for  the  extension  of  the  line  towards  HalFs  Bay, 
with  a  branch  to  Erigus  at  Clarke's  Beach,  authoriz- 
ing a  loan  of  $4,500,000.00  and  givi..g  the  govern- 
ment authority  to  accept  bids  and  enter  into  a  con- 
tract  for  the  construction   of  the  road.     Mr.  E.  C. 
Eeid,  of  Montreal,  Canada,  Avas  awarded  the  contract, 
and  in  October,  1890,  work    vas  begun,  Avhich  was 
to  be  completed  in  five  years. 


"till  inJiijiuM^jimppHimi, 


^mm 


NORTHERN  AND  WESTERN  RAILWAY. 


79 


'■         A    NEW    DISCOVERY.  •     ' 

,     -  •  « 

In  the  meantime  a  survey  was  made  from  the  val- 
ley of  the  Exploits  to  the  west  coast  of  the  island,  or 
what  is  known  as  the  "French  Shore."  This  line 
passed  through  the  valleys  of  Deer  Lake  and  Harry's 
Brook.  Tlie  result  was  that  inasmuch  as  it  passed 
through  large  areas  of  rich  loamy  soil,  and  tapped  a 
portion  of  the  fine  H umber  valley,  famous  for  its 
good  land  and  fine  pine  timber,  and  terminated  on  the 
French  Shore  in  the  Bay  of  Islands,  with  its  magnifi- 
cent scenery,  the  government  was  led  to  abandon  the 
route  north  to  Hall's  Bay,  and  build  the  road  west 
from  the  Exploits. 


,  NORTHERN    AND    WESTERN    RAILWA\^ 

A  new  contract  was  made  with  Mr.  Reid,  by  Avhich 
he  was  to  ''build,  construct  and  equip  a  line  of  rail- 
way commencing  at  the  terminus  of  the  road  to  be 
constructed  ujider  the  Northern  "Railway  contract,  be- 
ing a  point  two  hundred  miles  distant  from  Placentia 
Junction  and  running  by  the  most  desirable  and  most 
direct  route  to  the  northeast  end  of  Gander  Lake, 
thence  to  the  northeast  end  of  Deer  Lake,  and  west- 
erly along  t^  0  north  side  (afterwards  changed  to  the 
south  side^  of  Deer  Lake,  and  down  the  Humber 
River,  thence  by  the  way  of  north  side  of  Harry's- 


80 


CAKTBOU  SHOOTINCJ   IN   NEWFOUNDLAND. 


River,  and  thonce  to  Port-aux-Basqiies."  This  con- 
tract was  signed  by  both  parties  on  tiie  16tli  day  of 
May,  1893. 

On  the  same  day  another  contract  was  entered  into 
Avith  Mr.  Reid  to  operate  for  ten  years  the  Placentia 
branch  raihvay  and  also  the  -  Newfoundland  North- 
ern and  Wcrtern,"  as  the  ne^v  hne   from    Placentia 
Junction  to  Port-aux-]>>as(iues  was  to  be  called.     This 
contract  was  ciuite  full  and  strict;  among  the  many 
provisions   included    were    a   sum  of  $15,6(X).00  per 
mile;  fee  simple  land  grants  as  follows:  250,000  acres 
upon  completion  of  the  northern  line  to  Exploits,  250,- 
000  acres  upon  completion  of  the  line  to  Port-aux- 
Basques,  and  the  balance  at  the  comj.letion;  land  to 
be  located  on  each  side  of  the  road,  and  in  alternate 
sections  of  one  or  two   miles   in   length   and  eight 
miles   deep;   and   one   commendable   section   of  the 
contract  stipulates  that  the  daily  wages  of  laborers 
shall  not  be  less  than  one  dollar  a  day,  and  payable 
monthly. 

In  October,  1800,  as  per  contract,  the  work  was  be- 
gun with  vigor;  at  the  close  of  1891  sixty-iive  miles 
were  completed  and  operated,  and  by  the  fall  of  1893 
two  hundred  miles  were  completed"^  and  trains  were 
running  between  Exploits,  Whitbourne  and  St. 
John's. 


imKmmmmm 


MAILS  BY   KAII.AVAY. 


81 


EXTENSION    OF   KATEWAY    NECESSITATES    ADDITIONAL 

COMMON    ROADS. 

In  order  to  connect  the  settlements  on  the  seacoast 
with  the  railroad,  the  pubhc  highways  became  a  ne- 
cessity, and  tliese  have  been  mostly  surveyed  and 
built  by  the  contractor,  Mr.  Reid,  acting  under  gov- 
ernmental supervision.  A  good  wagon  road  forty 
miles  in  length  has  been  built  from  Trinity  to  Shoal 
Harbor  via  Goose  l^ay,  opening  up  a  large  area  of 
good  land  suitable  for  grazing  and  agricultural  j)ur- 
poses,  and  furnishes  access  to  railway  focilities  for  a 
considerable  population.  Another  road  ten  miles  in 
length  connects  with  Indian  Arm  Bay;  while  a  third 
five  miles  in  lengt^i  runs  from  Alexander  Bay  to  the 
railroad  near  Gam  bo,  and  one  about  forty-f(jur  miles 
long  from  HalFs  Bay,  connecting  four  miles  Avest  of 
Badger  Brook.  Roads  from  Arnold's  Cove  and  Come- 
by-Chance  have  also  been  completed. 


MAILS   BY    RAILWAY. 

The  railway  now  carries  nearly  all  the  northern 
mails,  which  in  winter  used  to  be  conveyed  by  cour- 
iers on  foot,  or  with  the  aid  of  dogs  over  the  ice  and 
snow.  Small  steamers  ply  from  Shoal  Harbor,  Ex- 
ploits and  Clode  Sound  around  the  bays,  carrying 
mail  and  pi^ssengers  to  and  from  the  various  sett'e- 


82 


CARIBOU  SHOOTING  IN  NEWFOUNDLAND. 


nients;  and  thus  both  social  and  material  progress 
has  been  initiated  by  the  iron  liorse  and  his  satellites, 
tlie  common  roads. 

ROUTE    OF   RAILWAY. 

From  Placentia  Junction,  seven  miles  from  Whit- 
bourne,  the  new  line  runs  northerly,  crossing  the  isth- 
mus which  connects  the  Peninsula  of  Avalon  with 
the  main  body  of  the  island,  at  its  narrowest  point  be- 
ing only  three  miles  wide.     On  either  side  of  the 
isthmus   are   the   heads   of  the   two   great   bays   of 
Placentia  and   Trinity.     Still  following  a  northerly 
course,  the  road  passes  through  Terra  Nova,  Gambo 
and  Gander  Valleys,  and  enters  the  valley  of  the  Ex- 
ploits  at    Norris'   Arm.     From   this   point   it  turns 
westerly,  following  up  the  Exploits  valley  and  cross- 
ing the  river  at  Bishop's  Falls,  ten  miles  from  its 
mouth,  on  a  magnificent  steel   bridge,   630   feet   in 
length,   with   granite   piers   and   abutments.      From 
Bishop's  Falls  it  crosses  over  into  the  valley  of  the 
Peter's  Arm  Brook  (the  Grand  Falls  being  about  one 
and  one-half  miles  from  the  road  at  the  two  hundred 
and  twenty-second  miie  from  Whitbourne),  but  returns 
to  the  Exploits  valley  again  near  Rusby  Pond  at  the 
two  hundred  and   twenty-seventh  mile  from  Whit- 
bourne.    From  thence  it  follows  up  the  Exploits  val- 


"awM^wMonpm 


KOUTI-:  OF   RAILWAY. 


83 


ley  to  Badger  Brook,  where  it  leaves  the  river.  From 
Badger  Brook  it  takes  a  northwesterl}^  route,  crossing 
the  White  Hill  Tlains,  tlience  down  the  valley  of 
Kitty's  Brook  to  the  northeastern  end  of  Grand  Lake. 
The  course  is  then  along  the  southern  side  of  Deer 
Lake  to  Bay  of  Islands,  tlience  through  the  valley  of 
Harry's  Brook  to  Bay  St.  George.  From  this  point 
the  line  passes  back  of  the  Anguille  range  of  hills, 
down  the  valley  of  the  Codroy  River  to  Cape  Ray, 
about  nine  miles  distant  from  Port-aux-Basques, 
which  is  the  terminus  of  the  line.  When  tliis  road 
is  completed  it  will  be  five  liundred  and  fifty  miles  in 
length,  from  St.  John's  on  the  east  coast  to  Port-aux- 
Bas(|ue  on  the  west,  and  from  the  latter  point  a  short 
sail  across  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  will  land  passen- 
gers on  the  continental  railway  system,  and  New- 
foundland will  almost  cease  to  be  an  island. 


CHAPTER  X. 


THE    ABORICJTXKS. 

Beothiks  or  '^Ked  Indians  "—Their  Condition  when  Dis- 
covered—A Powerful  and  Warlike  People— A  Change 
Comes  Over  their  Dreams— Their  Decadence— The  Race 
Extinct— A  Melancholy  Find— The  First  White  Men  to 
Sight  :N^ewfoundland— AVliite  Men  Land  on  the  Island— 
From  Eighteen  to  over  Two  Hundred  Thousand. 

HEN  the  question  is  asked,  Avho  were  the 
first  inhabitants  of  the  island  of  Newfound- 
land,— to  what  race  of  men  did  they  be- 
long, what  were  their  appearance  and  habits,  their 
color  and  modes  of  hving?— the  sages  of  the  world 
are  not  prepared  to  answer.  Recorded  history  en- 
ables  us  to  go  back  only  to  the  first  appearance  of 
European  explorers  some  four  hundred  years  ago,  but 
it  is  barely  possible  that  other  races  may  have  pre- 
ceded the 


''red  Indians"  or  beothiks, 
Who  were  the  occupants  of  the  soil  when  the  dar- 
ing voyagers  braved  the  tempestuous  Atlantic  in  their 
frail  crafts,  and  after  untold  hardships   reached  the 
seagirt  isle,  and  found  it  inhabited  by  a  race  in  all  re- 

(84)  ,        . 


CONDITION  OF   THE   BEOTllIKS. 


85 


spects  resembling  the  savage  tribes  of  the  North 
American  continent,  and  hkely  belonging  to  the  same 
stock.  The  early  explorers,  thinking  they  had  dis- 
covered the  eastern  shores  of  Asia  or  India,  called  all 
the  inhabitants,  both  in  North  and  Soutli  America, 
*' Indians,"  and  from  their  complexion  the  northern 
tribes  were  afterwards  called  "  Red  Indians." 

The  race  found  in  Newfoundland  called  themselves 
^'Beothiks,"  Avhich  was  their  tribal  name.  Their 
features  were  those  of  the  continental  Indians.  They 
had  straight,  jet-black  hair,  high  cheek  bones,  small 
black  eyes,  and  their  skin  was  coi)per  colored.  Their 
habits  of  life  were  also  similar  in  many  respects ;  tliey 
subsisted  by  hunting  and  fishing;  their  Aveapons,  wig- 
wams and  domestic  utensils  resembled  those  of  neigh- 
boring tribes.  Among  learned  men  who  have  care- 
fully studied  the  few  relics  Avhich  have  been  preserved, 
and  the  meagre  and  uncertain  vocabularies  Avhicli 
contain  all  that  remains  of  tlieir  language,  there  is  a 
difierence  of  opinion  as  to  whether  they  were  a  branch 
of  the  widespread  and  warlike  Algonquins,  who  sus- 
tained themselves  and  increased  in  numbers. 

CONDITION    OP   THE    BEOTHIKS    WHEN    DISCOVERED. 

When  Cabot  landed  on  the  island,  in  1497,  the 
Beothiks  were  a  numerous  and  powerful  people,  well 


tm 


mm. 


ii^MjMUHlH 


_& 


'MH 


86 


CARIBOU  SHOOTING  IN  NEWFOl'NDLAND. 


developed  physically,  ingenious,  of  (piiek  intellij'cnce, 
gentle  in  manners,  and  inclined  to  be  friendly  to  the 
pale-faces.     The  great  island,  with  its  abundance  of 
wild  creatures  of  many  species,  and  its  shores,  lakes 
and  rivers  swarming  with  lish,  was  to  them  a  perfect 
paradise.     Countless  herds  of  reindeer  wandered  over 
the   marshes  iji   the  interior  in  their  migrations,  at 
which  times  their  capture  was  easily  accomplished, 
even  Avith   the  simple   devices  in  the   possession  of 
these   children   of  the   forest.     The   flesh   furnished 
them   with   their  most  nutritious   food,   while  from 
their  pelts  they  made  the  best  waterproof  leather, 
with  which  they  clothed  their  feet  as  well  as  covered 
their  wigwams,  insuring  tliern  against  the  severity  of 
the  long  Avinters.     These  hides,  being  better  adapted 
for  making  ''buckskin,"  than  those  of  any  other  of 
the  deer  flimily,  together  with  the  skins  of  the  beaver, 
wolf  and  bear,  gave  them  abundant  and  comfortable 
clothing.     They  practiced  no  agriculture,  but  the  wild 
berries  in  their  luxuriant  growth  supplied  them  witfi 
an  abundance  of  vegetable  food. 


A  CHANGE  COMES  OVER  THE  DREAMS  OF  THE 

BEpTHIKS  -  ; 

That  very  ancient  principle  in  nature's  laws  of  the 
survival  of  the  fittest  came  in  force  with  the  appear- 


THE  KACE  EXTINCT.  87 

anco  of  the  Avhite  man  and  sealod  tlioir  doom.  For 
three  hundred  years  tliey  struggled  on,  but  gradually 
becoming  Aveaker  and  weaker.  For  a  comparatively 
sliort  time  the  same  old  story  repeated  itself,  and 
friendly  relations  existed  between  them  and  the  in- 
vaders ;  but  soon  quarrels  arose,  and  deeds  of  violence 
resulted  in  savage  vengeance.  The  first  rude  traj^)- 
pers,  hunters  and  fishermen  as  they  spread  into  the 
northern  parts  of  the  island  were  beyond  the  control 
of  laAV  and  justice,  and  little  disposed  to  exercise  con- 
ciliation and  kindness  towards  the  untutored  savages, 
whose  presence  interfered  with  their  pursuits.  The 
poor  Beothiks  were  treated  with  cruel  brutality,  and 
for  long  years  were  regaided  as  vermin  to  be  hunted 
down  and  destroyed  without  limit,  except  as  to  oppor- 
tunity. This  led  the  Indians  to  fierce,  savage  retalia- 
tion which  ensured  their  ultimate  destruction. 

THE    RACE   EXTINCT. 

At  length  the  spirit  of  humanity  roused  from  its 
deep  slumber,  and  from  1760  to  1823  attempts  were 
made  to  conciliate  the  Indians  and  save  their 
wretched  remnant  from  annihilation;  but  these  ef- 
forts proved  to  have  begun  too  late.  Sad  experience? 
led  them  to  distrust  and  hate  he  white  man,  and 
they  could  not  respond  to  approaches  of  kindness. 


■2*:r-. ... 


88 


CAKIHOIJ  SHOOTING  IN  NEWFOUNDLAND. 


Forlorn  and  in  despair,  tlic  few  remaining  IJeothiks 
retreated  to  their  last  refuge  at  Red  Indian  r.ak(^  and 
there  tliey  (hed  one  by  one,  until  not  a  single  living-; 
representatives  of  this  once  powerful  race  remained. 
There  is  no  darker  i)age  in  the  liistory  of  Nortli 
America  tlian  that  which  records  the  fjite  of  the  iin- 
hapj)y  Beothiks. 

A    MELANCHOLY    FIN  J). 

In  1(S28  a  final  eflbrt  was  made  to  open  connnuni- 
cati(jn  with  the  renmant  of  tlie  tribe  which  was  sup- 
posed to  still  survive.  An  expedition  was  organized 
which  penetrated  to  their  last  retreat  at  Red  Indian 
Lake.  Only  their  graves  and  the  mouldering  re- 
mains of  their  Avigwams  were  found — but  no  living 
Beothik.  The  silence  of  death  reigned  supreme. 
Fragments  of  canoes,  skin  dresses,  storehouses,  and 
the  repositories  of  their  dead  were  there,  but  no 
human  sound  was  heard,  no  smoke  from  wigwam 
seen.  Their  campfires  Avere  extinguished,  and  the 
sad  record  of  an  extinct  race  was  closed  forever. 


THE    FIRST    WHITE    MEN    TO   SIGHT   NEWFOUNDLAND. 

Before  closing  these  brief  notes  of  the  early  history 
of  this  country,  it  might  be  well  to  note  the  fact  that 
it  is   highly  probable  that  the  first  white  men  Avho 


-  "'^^^•^-^^'•jitriteiiiitinii 


WIIITi:   MEN   LAND  ON  TIIK   ISLAND. 


89 


saw  tlu'  shores  of  N('\vfoun(ll;m<l  were  the  Nortlunen. 
Five  hundred  years  before  th(^  time  of  ( 'a])ot  these 
l|old  adventurers,  \q<\  by  Lief,  son  of  Krie  the  lied, 
sailed  from  CJreeidand  in  searcli  of  western  hnids. 
Newfoundlar.d  hiy  (hreetly  in  their  course,  and  ac- 
cording to  tlieir  sagas  or  boolcs  on  reaching  it  they 
gave  it  tlie  name  of  ''HeUuland,"  or  the  land  of 
naked  rocks.  TIk^  daring  saih)rs  passed  on,  however, 
and  made  no  attempt  at  forming  a  settlement.  Tlieir 
adventurous  voyage,  in  which  they  are  said  to  have 
reached  llliode  Island,  took  place  in  1001. 

WHITE   MEN   LAND  ON   THE  ISLAND. 

On  the  second  day  of  IVIay,  1497,  a  small  caravel 
named  the  ''Matthew,"  manned  by  eighteen  English 
sailors  and  commanded  by  John  Cabot,  left  the  i)ort 
of  Bristol.     Cabot  was  a  Venetian  by  birth  and  in  the 
service  of  Henry  VII.  of  England. 
.     On  the  twenty-fourth  day  (jf  June  following,  hearty 
English  cheers  greeted  the  first  sight  of  the  Island  of 
Newfoundland.     Thus   by   right  of  discovery  it  be- 
longed to  England  ;  but  it  was  not  until  1583  that  the 
formal  possession  was  taken  by  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert 
in  the  name  of  ( Jueen  Elizabeth.     This  gallant  Eng- 
lish knight  had  formed  the  purpose  of  colonizing  the 
island ;  but  misfortunes  overtook  him,  and  Avhen  re- 


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CARIBOU   SHOOTING    IX   XEWFOLNIJLAXD. 


turning  to  Knij,land  liis  vessel  tlie  ''( Joklen  Hind"  and 
all  on  board  sunk  beneath  tlie  waves  of  the  Atlantic. 
With  these  few  ()l)servations,  noting-  but  here  and 
there  a  few  (>f  the  most  important  events  in  tlie  his- 
tory of  this  remarkal)le  island,  for  many  of  which  we 
acknowle(lg(.'  indebtedness  to  that  interesting  little 
work  by  Rev.  M.  Harvey,  of  St.  John's,  entitled 
''Newfoundland  as  it  is  in  189-f,"  the  author  has 
h()})ed  to  furni.-,Ii  the  reader  with  an  outline  of  the 
(hscovery,  surface  conditi<jns  and  struggles  of  the 
white  })02)ulation  of  the  PTind's  crew  to  a  population 
at  present  of  over  two  hundred  thousand. 


CHATTER    XI. 

Pin:PARATIOXS   FOR   THE   TKIP. 

Too  Manv  Caribou  in  ]Mr.  HolbertHOii's  Article — Our  Friend 
Goes  to  Xew  York  and  Eeturns  with  Pupils  Dilated — 
"Kichard  Le  Butle,  Hall's  Bay,  Xotre  Dame  Bay,  N.  F.'' 
— The  Cree  Stove  as  Amended — Cooking  Untensils,  etc., 
Packed  in  Stove — Baggage  Kestrictious — What  AVe  Car- 
ried— The  Medicine  Chest — Guns  and  Ammunition — The 
Protean  Tent. 


^x'^x',K^vc^tflfSi1i^S 


IT  1 1  so  niiicli  knowliMlgo  of  the  histoiy  and 
jjhysical  features  of  the  island  a.s  we  liave 
tried  to  give;  in  tlie  ))i'eeeding  pages,  the 
reader  wlio  lias  followed  us  thus  far  is  i)repared  to  ac- 
company us  ''in  the  si)int  and  understanding"  as  we 
now  pass  to  the  detailed  account  of  our  own  personal 
experience  in  hunting  the  reindeer  among  the  White 
Hills  of  Newfoundland.  To  the  hunter  wdio  may  fol- 
low in  our  footsteps — and  we  hope  he  will  he  num- 
erous— the  space  devoted  to 

PREPARATIONS  FOR  l^E   TRIP 

May  be  both  interesting  and  useful ;  while  the  tour- 
ist will  find  something  of  value,  and  even  the  stay-at- 

(91) 


i 


1.1  li|Pi4IPW 


92 


CAiilBOU  SHOOTING   IN  NEWFOUNDLAND. 


home  reader  should  not  consider  the  time  altogetlier 
wasted  Avliicli  is  given  to  informing  liim  liow  the 
'^outers"  make  themselves  fliirly  comfortable  under 
circumstances  too  commonly  described  by  the  oppro- 
brious name  of  hardship.  If  some  be  tempiod  by  our 
description  to  'Hry  it  on,"  our  work  will  not  have 
been  done  in  vain. 

None  of  our   fellow-sportsmen   know   better  than 
those  who  have  made  frequent  excursions  to  distant 
fields,  how  nmch  of  a  task  it  is  to  complete  the  itiner- 
ary;  and  especially  so  when  the  objective  point   is 
tixousands  of  miles   away,  and   in   a  ccjuntry  about 
whose  history  the  world  at  large  knows  but  little,  and 
the  United  States  even  less.     Many  letters  of  inquiry 
had  to  be  written,  and  the  difficulty  was  to  find  the 
names  and  addresses  of  the  proper  persons  Avith  whom 
to  communicate.     Fortunately  the  author  noticed  a 
communication  from  the  pen  of  Wakeman  Holbert- 
son  Avhich  appeared  in  the  April  number  of  Harper's 
Weekly,  1892,  Avhich  read  like  a  fliiry  tale,  describing 
a  trip  to  the   White   Hills  in   Newfoundland.     The 
Weekly  was  passed  round,  read  aloud  at  a  smoke,  and 
connuented  on  to  the  fullest  extent;  and  Avhile  the 
reputation  of  Mr.  Holbertson  for  ''truth  and  veracity" 
Avas  not  called  into  question  as  a  special  order  of  busi- 
ness, the  grimaces  made   by  some  of  the  hearers  as 


Htm 


■iiPiiniiip 


OUR  FRIEND'S  PUPILS  DILATED. 


93 


i!       i 


Holbertson's  story  fell  ni)()ii  tlieiroars  would  have  led 
Diost  observers  to  conclude  that  thc^  narrative  was  a 
good  one,  but  it  had  entirely  too  many  cari])ou  in  it. 
It  was  decided,  liowever,  that  Mr.  A.  C.  Ke})ler,  with 
Avhom  the  writer  has  shared  elbow-room  and  blanket 
on  many  a  hunt  in  the  wilds  during  the  last  twenty 
years,  should  write  ^Ir.  Holbertson  for  special  in- 
formation. This  was  promptly  done,  and  in  due 
course  of  time  a  reply  came  verifying  all  contained  in 
the  article  and  adding  still  more  to  it,  with  a  pressing 
invitation  to  call  and  see  his  trophies  of  the  hunt.  It 
was  not  long  before  friend  Ivepler  ostensibly  had  busi- 
ness in  New  York,  but  it  is  supposed  that  the  business 
part  of  that  trip  was  to  see  Holbertson's  heads  and 
horns. 

OUR  FRIEND'S   PUPILS   DILATED. 

Kepler  came  back,  his  pupils  as  large  as  a  cat's  on 
a  dark  night,  in  the  dark  of  the  moon,  and  chatter- 
ing like  a  magpie.  The  whole  story  was  confirmed, 
and  the  fall  of  1894  was  decided  upon  as  the  time 
Avhen  our  pilgrimage  was  to  be  made.  So  the  pre- 
liminaries were  ai'ranged,  and  the  hrst  step  assigned 
the  writer  was  to  open  communication  Avith  the  guide 
so  highly  recommended  by  Mr.  Holbertson,  Avhose 
address  we  give  in  large  type : 


ima 


-^ssmM^"' 


I  •'  '""W 


mmm 


wwiiiiiimwi 


94  CARIBOU  SHOOl^NG   IX   NEWFOUNDLAND. 

KlCFIAHI)    FiKBuFFE, 

Hall's  Bay,  P.  O.  Wolf  Cove,  Xotre  Dame  Bay, 

N.  F. 

No  time  was  lost  in  addivssiiio-  a  letter  containing 
many  questions,   and   engaging  liis  services  for  the 
opening  of  the  season  of  1804.     After  weary  weeks  of 
Avaiting,  a  letter  came  hearing  tlie  picture  of  a  seal  on 
the    stamp,    post-marked,    ^ahdl's    Bay,    Newfound- 
land."     It  was  short  hut  sweet,  and  while  it  did  not 
contain  all  the  information  asked,  lie  accepted  service 
on  tlie  following  terms:     Self  and  canoes,  *3.()()  per 
day;  four  carriers  at  .$1.50  per  day  each  and  found; 
instructions  to  land  at  Pilley's  Ipi.and ;  charter  steani 
launch  to  liead  of  Hall's  B,ay,  wliere  guide  lives  (25 
miles);    marcli    tlu'ee  miles  to  foot  of  West    Pond; 
from  foot  of  pond   to  head  of  same,   five  miles  in 
canoes;  march  thirteen  miles  more  or  less  to  log  tilt 
on  Big  Marsh  in  the  AMiite  Hills  country— in  all 
forty-six  miles  or  more  from  Pilley's  Island  to  juain 
camj). 

Further  correspondence  elicited  the  foct  tliat  the 
tilt  was  constructed  of  logs  chinked  with  moss,  slop- 
ing roof  of  hirch  hark  and  a  smoke  hole,  and  no  way 
of  getting  a  stove  nearer  than  the  head  of  Hall's  Bay, 
except  by  carrying  it  on  the  backs  of  men. 


•t 


THE  CKKE  STOVE. 


1)5 


All  this  information  suiii>'08to(l  ihv  ini[»ortanco  of 
economizing  in  both  weight  and  hulk,  in  l)oth  i)er- 
sonal  l)aggage  and  supphes.  LelUitle  could  furnisli 
nothing  Init  his  service,  that  of  native  carriers,  canoes, 
the  log  tilt,  and  all  the  caril)ou,  ptarmigan  and  fish 
our  hearts  could  wish  for. 

We  were  also  informed  that  for  a  party  of  three  or 
four  men  four  carriers  would  be  recpiired,  one  of 
Avhom  would,  in  addition  to  i)acking  a  good  load  in 
and  out,  act  as  cook  for  the  party  while  in  camp. 
From  past  experience  we  had  learned  that  if  we  were 


M 


1 


THE    CREE   STOVE,  WHICH,  AS    IMPROVED,    MAKES    THE    BEST    CAMP 

STOVE    KNOWN. 

to  be  assured  of  any  comfort  in  camp  it  would  be  ne- 
cessary to  take  a  stove  with  us,  as  we  had  played  the 
smoke-hole  racket  on  many  occasions  and  were  not 
particularly  partial  to  it. 

The  writer  was  the  possessor  of  a  D.  W.  C^ree  camp 
stove,  manufactured  in  Griggsville,  Ills.  No  better 
camp  stove  has  been  devised;  but  the  one  on  hand 
had  a  cast-iron  top,  and  was  both  too  heavy  and  too 


i 


Jill^lU.ULWU'JJJ! 


90 


CAiilBOU  SI[0()TIN(}   IX   NEWFOUNDLAND. 


long  to  Ijo  packed  on  tlio  back  of  a  man.     Permission 
was   ol)tained    from    Mr.   Cree,   wlio  is  ;i  gentleman 
sportsman,  to  liave  made  by  our  local  mechanics  a 
stove  after  liis  pattern  witli  modifications  to  suit  our 
wants.     The  result  was  just  what  we  wantcil,  and  the 
stove  proved  to  be  a  great  comfort  as  a  substitute  for 
the  smoke-hole  in  tlie  log  tilt  on  the  Big  Marsh.     It 
was  twenty-six  inches  long,  thirteen  inches  liigh  and 
thirteen  inclies  wide,  and  made  of  Russian  sheet-iron; 
to])  of  same  material,  with  two  holes  covered  with 
sheet-iron  lids,  in  the  centre  of  Avhich  Avas  a  loose  ring. 
Fire  door  of  the  same  kind  and  at  the  same  place  as 
in  the  (Jree  stove;  the  oven,  instead  of  being  perma- 
nently fixed  in  position,  slid  into  ])lace  on  two  stron<>- 
angle-irons,  and  when  not  in  use  could  be  removed  at 
will,  when  wood  twenty-four  inches  long  could  be  used. 
Nine  twelve-inch-long  joints  of  galvanized  iron  tele- 
scope pipe,  with  damper,  completed  the  lightest  and 
best  stove  of  the  kind  ever  used,  as  flu*  as  the  writer 
has  been  able  to  ascertain.     A)\^ight,  with   the  nine 
feet   of  pipe,    bake-pan,    lids,   pipe-collar   and    baker 
packed   inside,  but  sixteen  pounds.     In  addition  to 
the  stove  adjustments  it  contained  when  packed  for 
the  trip  the  following 

COOKING   UTENSILS  AND  SUNDRIES: 

1  coffee  pot,  h  dozen  tip„  plaies,  1  wire  broiler,  2  frying 


i 


BAGGAGE   liESTKICTIONS. 


07 


pans,  2  frying  pan  liandli^s,  1  largL'  spoon,  1  large 
meat  fork,  i  dozen  teaspoons,  h  dozen  knives,  h 
dozen  forks,  1  salt  box,  1  pepper  1)()X,  h  dozen  nested 
tin  cups,  T)  oblong  nested  stew  kettles,  1  wash  l)asin,  1 
rubljer  e(jllapsil)le  Avater  bucket,  5  stew  kettle  lids,  1 
butcher  knife,  1  dishcloth,  1  cake  home-made  soap, 
2  tea  towels. 

Ai:d,  in  addition,  the  following:  1  coil  cop})er  wire, 
assorted  wire  nails,  h  pound  arsenic,  1  pair  moccasins, 
2  pairs  shoe  packs,  1  })air  heavy  woolen  stockings,  40 
rounds  rifle  cartridges  (40-()5),  1  bag  chewing  tobacco, 
2  bags  smoking  tobacco,  1  pound  pulverized  alum, 
and  1  hank  heavy  cord. 

The  stove  being  full,  it  Ava^  padded  over  the  open 
bottom  Avith  excelsior  three  inches  thick  for  i)r()tec- 
tion  to  carrier's  back,  then  entirelv  coA'ered  Avitli  thick 
bagging,  Avhich  Avas  Avell  scAved  on  and  the  package 
completed  by  buckling  on  the  carrying  strap  (see  cut, 
page  98),  the  Avliole  Aveighing  seventy-six  pounds — a 
convenient  load  for  a  natiA'e  Newfoundlander. 


I 


BAGGAGE   RESTRICTIONS. 


Each  member  of  the  party  Avas  alloAved  to  take  as 
much  baggage  as  he  desired  to  the  point  of  disembar- 
cation,  Pillev's  Island.  When  the  outfit  left  Pillev's, 
each  Avas  restricted  to  the  folloAving,  a  list  of  Avhich 


IMilMMaMiii 


..-jll 


us 


CAKIBOU  SHOOTINCi    JN   NEWFOUNDi.AMX 


CARRY-ALL    WITH    CARRYING   STRAP    ATTACHED. 


Avas  sent  liini :  1  liuntinii:  hat,  1  hunting  cap,  1  liunt- 
ing  coat,  1  hunting  vest,  1  Canhgan  jacket,  2  under- 
shirts, 2  })airs  (h-awers,  1  pair  liunting  i)ants.  1  extra 
pair  pants,  4  pairs  stockings,  2  overshirts,  1  pair  hunt- 
ing shoos,  1  extra  pair  slices,  1  pair  rubber  boots,  1 
})air  gloves,  1  pair  woolen  l)lankets  (single),  1  rubber 
bUmket,  1  carr^^-all,  1   match  safe,  i  dozen  handker- 


•*  Jn«» 


II 


WHAT  WE   CAK'KMi:i). 


99 


cliicfs,  1  towol,  1  wasln-a.!;',  1  cake  toilet  soa^),  1  i^un 
(I'illc  or  i'ill(>  and  shot),  1  jointed  cleaning;"  rod  and  oil, 
1  light  reel,  1  short  trunk  rod,  1  small  fly  book,  extra 
liooks,  etc.,  1  case  needles,  thread,  buttons,  1  compass, 
1  hunting  knife,  1  rubber  colla})sible  drinking  cup,  I 
pair  slippers  (heavy  soles),  1  package  paper,  envelopes, 
postals,  pipes  and  tobacco,  cigars,  etc.,  and  one  good 
field  or  o})era  grass. 

In  addition  to  the  above  the  writer  took  in  a 
"Ditty  l>ag''  made  from  an  ordinai-y  shot  bag  the  fol- 
lowing medical  sui)plies;  sufficient  for  the  whole 
party:  25  sugar  coated  imp'd.  co.  catli.  pills,  5f)  sugar 
coated  2  gr.  quin.  pills,  50  k  gr.  niorph.  granules,  h  oz. 
Norwood's  Tr.  Verat.  Viridi,  2  oz.  chloroibrm,  h  oz.  lid. 
ext.  Ipecac,  2  oz.  Tr.  Dover's  powder,  1  oz.  oxide  zinc 
ointment,  1  roll  rul)ber  adhesive  plaster  1  in.  wide,  2 
drachms  stearate  of  zinc,  3  roller  bandages,  1  hypi^der- 
mic  syringe,  i  oz.  chlor.  anodyne  (Parke,  Davis  &  Co.). 

Any  ph^^sician  will  furnish  specific  directions  for 
the  use  of  the  above  named  remedies  and  appliances, 
in  case  there  is  none  in  the  party.  The  list  given 
embraces  all  that  will  be  necessary,  and  the  remedies, 
if  handled  with  a  moderate  amount  of  care  and  intel- 
ligence, will  meet  most  of  the  ills  incident  to  camp 
life  in  a  northern  climate.  To  this  extra  i^ersonal 
baggage  was  added  the  author's  case  of 


1211 


loo 


CAIilUOU   SMOOTlNd    IN    NKWroiNDLAND. 


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mmm 


GUNS  AND  AMML'NITION. 


101 


CAM  V   C(  )N VENIENCFS, 

wliicli    lie  lias   for  years  taken   with    him,  and   now 
deems  almost  indispensahle  on  lisliing,  huntinjj;  and 


collect*  ig  tours. 


GUNS  AND    \MMUNrnON. 

As  there  are  still  ''many  men  of  many  minds,"  it 
would  l)e  impossible  to  restrict  any  sportsman  as  to 
what  arm  amonii;  the  many  he  sliould  use.  Now-a-days 
there  avi)  no  i)oor  guns  made,  comparatiyely  speaking. 
No  man  should  take  two  guns  into  this  countiy  un- 
less he  can  take  two  in  one.  lie  will  find  that  with 
one  and  his  pack,  a  tramp  of  some  sixteen  miles  will 
giye  him  all  he  cares  to  carry.  A  shotgun  is  of  no 
earthly  uso  in  caribou  hunting — you  might  just  as 
well  shoot  into  a  sand-ljank.  Their  coyering  of  short 
thick  hair  on  a  thick  hide  is  almost  proof  against 
buckshot.  On  the  other  hand  the  beautiful  ptar- 
migan or  Avillow-grouse  are  plentiful,  of  superb  tlayor, 
and  serye  as  an  agreeable  change  in  diet;  but  it  re- 
quires a  shotgun  to  get  them.  The  conditions  thus 
stated  suggest  the  proper  gun — either  a  Daily  three- 
barrel  or  a  gun  suggested  by  the  Avriter,  inyented  and 
patented  by  Prof.  Wm.  B.  Hall,  of  Lancaster,  Pa. 
This  gun  weighs  but  eight  and  one-fourth  pijunds, 
and  meets  all  the  requirements  of  any  hunt,  after  any 


■H 


102 


CAKIBOU  SHOOTING   IX   NEWFOUNDLAND. 


BINATION    RIFLE    AND   SHOTGUN. 


GUNS  ANJ)  AM.MLMTIOX. 


103 


game.  The  ritic  Uarrcl,  wliicli  is  on  top.  may  bo 
made  t(^  any  calibre  to  suit  tlio  fancv  of  the  owner, 
from  50  down.  Tlie  action  is  strong  and  i)erfect. 
Tlie  sbot-l>arrel  is  a  20-l)ore  cylinder,  shoots  sliot  well, 
and  does  good  execution  witli  a  patched  round  Ijall 
at  sevonty-tive  to  one  hundred  yards.  This  would  be 
the  ideal  gun  with  jacketed  Ijullet  for  ritle  and 
smokeless  powder.  A  repeater  is  not  necessary  ex- 
cept in  war.  As  each  hunter  is  allowed  to  kill  but 
five  bull  and  three  doe  caribou,  be  should  shoot  for 
fine  specimens.  On  small  game  there  is  no  restric- 
tion. As  lead  is  heavy,  it  is  well  to  take  onlv  what 
ordnance  stores  are  necessary.  rv»rty  rounds  of  ritle 
cartridii'es  are  i)lenty — and,  if  a  sliot-l)arrel  is  used  50 
assorted  sizes  of  small  shot  is  quite  sutlicient.  jNIr. 
Kepler  carred  his  Daily  o-barrel  gun  —  the  one  he 
has  been  using  for  the  last  fifteen  years;  shot-barrel 
12-bore;  riHe,  45-70  Govt.  ^Ir.  J.  W.  Davis,  "The 
Kid"  owned  no  gun,  and  used  the  author's  Hall  gun, 
20-bore  shot,  ritle  40-82.  The  writer  used  a  40-05 
Winchester  with  a  ^Falcolm  telescoi)e  sight. 

A  small,  light  tent  is  a  necessity.  Having  exam- 
ined carefully  the  Protean  tent,  manufactured  by  A. 
S.  Comstock,  of  Kvanston,  Ills.,  we  were  not  long  in 
selecting  Just  what  we  wanted.  Size,  on  ground,  7x7 
feet ;   height  of  rear  wall,  2  feet ;    height  at  the  only 


iHHiai 


104 


CAKIBOU  SHOOTING  IN   NEWFOUNDLAND. 


I 


pole  used,  7  feet  3  iiiclies;  8-oimce  army  duck.  This 
tent  gives  more  room  and  stands  more  blow  than  any 
tent  made,  and  the  price  is  reasonable. 

Our  preparations  at  this  end  of  the  line  were  now 
about  completed,  and  in  the  next  chapter  we  will 
reach  Newfoundland. 


THE  COMSTOCK  ONE-POLE  PROTEAN  TENT. 


C  H  A  V  T  K  R    X  I  1 


FROM   NEW   YORK   TO   ST.    JOHN\<. 

Ho\v  to  Get  to  Newfoundland — lied  Cross  Line — The  Silvia 
and  Portia — Time  Table  and  Rates  of  Fare — Xo  Duty  and 
Twenty  Cubic  Feet  for  Baggage — Marching  Orders — ]Mis- 
take  Xo.  1 — On  Board  the  Portia— Otf  to  the  Xorth— 
Halifax — Fog  olf  Cape  Eace — Away  to  St.  John's. 


MILE  the  i)reparatioiis  (k'tailiHl  in  the  l;ist 
chapter  were  being  made,  the  ronte  and 
f^:^^^^^M  dates  were  also  being  arranged.  Connnuni- 
cation  liad  been  estabhshed  with  IMessrs.  Bowring  & 
Archibakl,  l*roduce  Excliange  Annex,  1)  Stone  St., 
New  York,  who  are  agents  for  tlie  Rnl  Cross  Line  of 
steamers  plying  between  New  York,  HaUfax,  N.  S., 
St.  John's  and  Pilley's  Iskuid.     These  two  steamers, 

THE  SILVIA   AND  PORTIA, 

Avere  Ijuilt  especially  for  this  trade,  are  of  high  speed, 
and  have  all  the  modern  improvements.  One  of 
them  leaves  Robinson's,  Congress  St.,  Stores  Dock, 
Brooklyn,  fortnightly,  sails  through  Eong  Islancb 
Vineyard  and  Nantucket  Sounds,  thereby  insuring 
smooth  water,  except  during  a  storm,  for  nearly  half, 

8  (  105  ) 


100  CAK'inoiJ   SHOOTING    IX    NEWFOUNDLAND. 

tliu  (lislaiico  to  and  from  Halifax,  wliicli  is  the  first 
call.  T\w  next  landing  is  nuido  at  St.  John's,  New- 
foundland. From  St.  .lolm's  tlioy  procood  to  tlio 
I'yrhes  mines  at  Pilley's  Island,  P>ay  of  Notre  Dame, 
'?40  miles  north  of  St.  John's,  and  your  proper  place 
to  sto])  if  you  are  desinjus  of  securing  some  fine 
heads  of  the  North  American  Reindeer  or  \\^oodland 
Caribou.     The 

AVEKAGE   TLME  EN    ROUTE 

northward  is  as  follows: 

Xcw  York  to  Halifax DO  liours. 

Staj^  at  Halifax  about 20  liours. 

Halifax  to  St.  John's 50  hours. 

Stay  at  St.  John's 2  days. 

St.  John's  to  Pilley's  Island 24  hours. 

And  returning  soutlnvard: 

Pilley's  Island  to  St.  John's 24  hours. 

Stay  at  St.  John's 24  hours. 

St.  John's  to  Halifax 50  hours. 

Stay  at  Halifax 24  hours. 

Halifax  to  New  York .50  hours. 


KATES  OF  PASSAGE. 

The  rates  here  given  include  meals  and  state-room 
berth  as  well  as  meals  during  stops : 


MAKCJriNG   OKDKKS.  107 

Cabin,  Firxf   Chis.s. 

New  York  to  Halifax  and  VL'turn if2<S.OO 

New  York  to  8t.  John's  and  return  'U.OO 

New  York  to  Pilley's  Island  and  return 72.00 

If  there  are  four  in  tlie  i)artv  tlie  acconunodatnig 
agents  will  allow  an  agent's  connuission  of  five  per 
cent.,  Avliich  will  add  |14.40  towards  the  purchase  of 
provisions  for  the  outfit. 

NO  DUTY  AND  TWENTY  CUBIC   FEET  SPACE  ALLOWED 

FOR   BAGGAGE. 

There  is  no  duty  on  guns  or  any  other  baggage, 
providing  you  Ijring  tlie  articles  back  to  the  United 
States;  and  each  passenger  is  allowed  twenty  cubic 
feet  of  space  for  l)aggage,  irrespective  of  weight. 
Hand  baggage  and  guns  are  allowed  in  state  rooms. 

All  prelinnnaries  having  been  attended  to,  all  we 
required  was  a  telegram  from  Bowring  (Sc  Archibald 
announcing  the  arrival  and  sailing  of  the  Fort  id, 
which,  as  we  had  been  informed,  would  not  sail 
through  to  Pilley's  Island,  but  comiect  at  St.  John's 
with  tlie  coast  steamers  sailing  north,  and  land  us  at 
Pilley's  Island  about  the  12th  to  the  15th  of  October. 

MARCHING  ORDERS. 

September  2(Stli,  in  the  early  morning,  the  word 
came,  "Portia  sails  from  Robinson's,  Congress  Street, 


■SMII 


108 


CAHIBOU  SHOOTING   IN   NEWFOUNDLAND. 


Stores,  lirooklyii,  at    12    M.,   Septenil)er    21)111."     At 
4:45   V.  M.  wo  boarde<l  tlic  train  at  Lancaster,  Pa., 
with  only  one  incident  to  mar  the  pleasant  anticipa- 
tions  which    we    had    been   nursiiii;-    for  a   year  and 
more  —  the  one   unpleasant   thing   which    occurs  on 
very  many  occasions  just  at  the  critical  moment- 
Mr.  II.  \\ .  lUish,  a  good  hunter  and  Jovial  compan- 
ion, was  obliged  to   remain  at   h,.    j  on   account  of 
business  complications  over  which  he  had  no  control. 
This  sudden  break  left  but  three  in  our  nartv  —  the 
writer,  ^Ir.  A.  (\  Kepler,  of  Lancaster,  and  :\Ir.  J.  W. 
Davis,  of  Bui'lington,  N.  J.     This  not  only  deprived 
us  of  the  company  of  Mr.  Bush,  but  as  Avell  his  share 
of  the  expenses,  which  amounted  to  considerable. 

The   Burlington  contingent  met  us  at  the  A. 'or 
House  on   Saturday  morning,  the   29th,  as  per  pre- 
vious arrangement,  and  by  10  A.  M.  we  were  at  the 
office  of  Bowring  ct  Archibald,  and  soon  secured  our 
passage  and  each  a  draft  for  f  100.00  (at  an  expense  of 
fifty  cents  per  hundred),  as  we  had  already  learned 
that  in    Newfoundland  American  money  would   be 
subject  to  a  shave  of  three  per  cent.     In  this  transac- 
tion we  made  a  mistake,  and  others  would  do  well  to 
benefit   by   our   experience.     We   should   have   con- 
verted  all   our  money  into  drafts  from  $10.00  up, 
which  would  not  only  have  saved  us  quite  a  snug 


^mtfimm 


OFF   TO  THE   NORTH. 


109 


little  sum,  but  would  have  spared  us  the  uiorti  Heat  ion 
of  seeiuii'  our  <2;ood  United  States  nionev  discounted 
by  a  bankrupt  country. 

ON   BOARD   THE   PORTIA. 

By  11  A.  ]\L  w(^  were  all  on  l^oard,  bad  good  rooms 
assigned  us,  made  the  ac(|uaintance  of  tlie  officers  and 
a  tour  of  general  inspection.  Tbe  Poiiui  is  a  fine 
English  steamer  of  732  tons,  250  feet  long,  with  ac- 
commodations for  ninety  passengers  and  a  large 
amount  of  freight.  Hhe  is  well  furnished,  kept  clean 
and  neat,  and  the  state  rooms  are  large  and  Avell 
arranged.  \\q  soon  learned  that  we  would  not  get 
off  at  12  ]M.  As  a  matter  of  fact  we  did  not  sail  until 
6  P.  ]\[.  At  2  r.  j\[.  we  had  a  sumptuous  dinner, 
including  the  delicacies  of  the  season — the  sun- 
browned  veteran.  Captain  Ash,  presiding.  He,  it 
will  be  remembered,  was  ice-pilot  on  the  Bear  on 
the  expedition  which  was  sent  to  Tieut.  Greely's  res- 
cue. For  a  quarter  of  a  century  he  has  skirted  the 
ragged  ice-bound  coasts  of  Newfoundland,  Labrador 
and  Greenland. 

OFF   TO  THi:  NORTH. 

At  6  p.  M.  the  anchor  Avas  raised  and  the  Portia 
floated  off  like  a  swan.  The  weather  was  warm  and 
sultry,  and  not  a  cloud  in  sight  as  large  as  a  hand. 


ill 


110  CAKinoU  SJIOOTIXG   IN   NEWTOINDLAM). 

Wo  all  enjoyed   l|,o  cvciiino-  sail    t,>  the  lullrsf  oxtciit 
and  ivtiivd  at  ehsvii,  slcvpin-  soundly  initil  about  four 
on  Sunday  inornin-   wlicn  wc  wciv  aroused  from  (,ur 
IH'acvful  slun.lHTs  l,y  a  terrihle  counnotion  on  deck. 
Tlie  ship  was  rollin-  and  pitel.in-  to  such  ui  extent 
that  ,t  was  diflicult  to  k(>ei>  from   hei no- thrown  from 
^>nr  herths,  and  the  cuspidor  was  shooting  from  one 
SKle  of  the   room   to  the  other  like  a   billiard   hall. 
In  short,  we  were  in   a  o-aJe.     The  deck   space  Avas 
mostly  taken  up  hy  pork,  coal  oil,  apples  and  other 
barreled  goods,  and  they  were  performing  the  same 
gyrations  as  tluMaispidors  in  the  state  rooms  below. 
At  7  A.  M.,  when  opposite  Johnstone's  Island,  the 
captain  wisely  concluded  to  cast  anchor  and  lash  the 
deck  load  to  tlie  railing.     At  7  P.  M.  the  anchor  was 
agani  haukKl  up  and  we  steamed  off,  making  about 
six  miles,  when  old  Neptune  became  so  boisterous 
that  at  one  time  ten  feet  of  water  swept  over  the  Por- 
tkC.  forward  deck,  compelling  us  to  face  about  again 
and  cast  anchor  near  the  spot  we  had  recently  left. 

Monday,  October  Isf  was  cold  and  clear,  though 
windy.  At  5  A.  M.  we  were  again  under  way,  roU- 
ing  along  at  a  fair  speed.  Though  we  had  but  little 
wind  during  the  afternoon  the  sea  was  still  rough  fol- 
lowing the  storm,  which  as  will  be  remembered  was 
very  disastrous  along  the  whole  Atlantic  coast.       .    t 


ON  r.()Ai;i)  'I'lii:  r<)iMi.\. 


11  1 


•A 


:d 


as 
o 


.1  i 


MlMllMMDi 


dIM 


mmummimr  .-^ 


112 


CAUIBOU   .SHOOTING   IX   NKWroiNDLANI). 


II  y 


Ti(i.s<l(iij,    Odubcr  J<l.     Thorn loiiujtcr  »")(>;  no    wind, 

W'cdiHsihii/,  Ovlohcr  ,}(}.  Tlicnnoinctcr  oO;  clear, 
no  wind.  We  cntcrod  the  hai'l)or  of  Halifax,  Nova 
;!5-otia.  at  8  A.  AF. 

HAIJFAX. 

The  citv  is  l(Kuiled  in  one  of  the  finest  liar])ors  in 
tlic  world,  on  the  Atlantic-  coast.  It  forms  a  loo}),  the 
hailjor  and  citv  lu'ini:;  snrronnded  bv  hiiih  nionntains 
and  hills,  all  sides  of  which  are  lined  with  forts  stndded 
with  hi'isthn^"  cannon.  The  first  thing  wu  did  was  to 
lind  the  post  and  telegraph  oiticos,  aftor  which  wo  made 
a  tour  of  the  citv,  which  is  indeed  vcrv  l)eautiful,  con- 
taining  massive  buildings,  Hnc  stores,  pretty  streets, 
l)otanic[d  gardens,  museums,  etc.  We  had  amide  lime 
to  walk  through  all  the  principal  parts  of  the  city,  and 
am(jng  the  objects  of  interest  we  visited  the  citadel,  the 
most  important  fort,  from  which  we  were  afforded  a 
nuigniticent  bird's-e^'e  view  of  the  city  and  liarl)or. 
One  of  the  attractions  in  the  latter  was  Pfer  Majesty's 
steamshii),  the  niakc.  Oui*  paper  currency  was  all 
right  and  taken  at  par,  but  our  silver  they  refused  to 
take  at  all.     We  left  Halifax  at  3.45  P.  M. 

Tlmrsdaij,  October  4^1  i.  Thermometer  GO;  cloudy. 
Began  raining  this  evening,  and  continued  most  of  the 
night.  - 


I, 


AWAY  TO  ^T.  .TOnX'8. 


IN  A  FO(i  OIT  CATJ:  liACK. 


ll.S 


FrhUnj,  Orfohrr  .'fl.  TluTinoiiictcr  ;■)(');  fon'.  At 
5..')0  tliis  luorniiiiz,'  we  wcn^  {iwakciRMl  hy  tlic  toi;'  sii;- 
iiJil,  wliicli  was  c'oiitiniu'd  all  day,  as  well  as  s(Uiii(liii.i;s 
every  half  lioiir  until  we  i)assed  Cape  Ivaee,  when  to- 
wards evening"  the  fog  lifted,  and  we  were  running*  at 
full  speed  for  St.  John's. 


'?D 


HMlUiiii 


iattki 


i'     I 


•WIW 


("II  APTKU   XIII. 

TlfK  CAPITAL  AND  ITS  SKJUTS. 

At  8t.  Jol.n'H— The  Stars  and  Stripes  Kaiscd  on  our  Kotol— A 
Hospitahlc^  City— Mistake  No.  2— (}anio  Laws  of  New- 
foundland—The Stipendiary  IMagistrate— The  License— 
Purchasing  Supplies— Eight  Men  for  Twenty  Days— Two 
Dollars  a  Day  ^'  Dry  "—Packing  for  Cache— Mistake  No. 
3— Kul)ber  the  Only  Wear— Seeing  the  City— Tlie  Nar- 
rows—A Land  Locked  Harbor— Tlie  City— Kelative  Dis- 
tances—The  Museum— The  Cathedral— Parliament  House 
— (iuidi  Vidi. 

ATUKDAY,  (ktohcr  0th.  Thonnonieter  55; 
clear.  At  4  A.  jNL  avc  wore  awukened  by 
the  casting  of  tlie  anchor  in  the  har])or  of 
St.  John's.  We  rose  at  six,  collected  our  hand  bag- 
gage, passed  the  customs  officers  all  right,  and  after  a 
few  minutes'  ^valk  up  grade  we  were  registered  at  the 
City  Hotel,  Mrs.  G.  Walch,  proprietress;  rate,  |1.50 
per  day,  good  rooms,  comfortable  beds,  electric  light, 
bath  and  plenty  of  clean,  wc^ll-cooked,  wholesome  food. 

UP  GOES  THE  STARS  AND  STRIPES. 

Scarcely  had  the  ink  time  to  dry  on  the  register, 
when  up  went  the  flag  of  our  country  in  our  honor. 

(114) 


nnp"««nHmiB 


MlSTAKi:    N(V  ± 


11.1 


AVo  soon  loarncd  llmt  the  knowlcdtiv  tluit  one  is  ;ni 
Aincricjin  is  a  sunicicnt  passport  in  Xcwfonndland, 
not  only  in  liu'  capital  of  tlu;  country,  hut  in  cycry 
liandct  tln'oniiliout  the  cntii'c  island.  Xcycr  in  any 
country  where  it  has  been  the  wi.ter's  pi'iyile-^v  to 
trayel  has  he  heeii  the  recipient  of  so  nuich  unsoh- 
cited  hospitahty  as  was  accorded  oui'  [)ariy  durini;"  our 
short  stay  in  St.  Jolni's.  To  mention  tlie  names  of 
all  who  Avere  actiye  in  their  zeal  to  make  us  comfoi'ta- 
ble  and  su])j)ly"  us  with  sucli  inlbrmation  as  we  desired 
Avould  1)0  inj[)ossil)le,  and  to  refer  to  a  few  would  1)0 
injustice  to  all  others  Ayith  ^yhom  we  came  in  contact. 
After  breakfast  we  started  out  to  attend  the  busi- 
ness of  the  hour,  and  as  the  sailing  date  of  the  first 
coast  steamer  north  for  IMUev's  Island  i»'oyerned  our 

fc/  CD 

stay  in  St.  Sohn's,  it  ^vas  to  ascertain  of  that  fact  first ; 
so  we  proceeded  to  the  office  of  the  N.  F.  Coastal 
Steamship  ('ompany's  office,  Harvey  &  Co.,  where 
we  were  informed  that  the  next  vessel,  the  Viiyuiia 
Lake,  would  sail  for  Pilley's  Island  between  the  9tli 
and  12th  of  October.  This  bit  of  information  also 
reminded  us  of 


M: 


[MISTAKE   NO.  2, 

as  we  were  now  to  spend  at  least  five  or  six  days  in 
St.  John's,  at  an  actual  expense  of  $1.50  a  day  each, 


I  :l 

Ml 


M 


IIG  CAPvIIJOU  SHOOTING   IN  NEWFOUNDLAND. 

wliic^li  could  all  luivc  k'cu  saved  liad  we  but  waited 
for  the  Silrid,  wliicli  calls  loDg  enough  at  St.  John's 
for  the  tourist  to  transact  all  necessary  business,  after 
wliich  she  sails  direct  to  Pilley's.  Our  information 
cost  us  this  cool  cash  in  addition  to  tlie  tliree  per 
cent,  discount,  and  we  trust  those  Avho  follow  us  Avill 
profit  by  the  old  adage  ''  a  penny  saved  is  a  penny 
earned,"  and  avoid  our  mistake. 

After  bewailing  our  misfortune  we  next  started  out 
to  hujit  np  the  august  personage  who  was  to  relieve 
us  each  of  *1()(3.00  and  one  hundred  cents  for  a 
license  to  permit  each  to  shoot  five  male  and  three 
female  caribou,  tliis  being  the  limit  allowed  by  the 

GAME   LAWS  OF   NEWFOUNDLAND, 

of  Avhicli  we  here  give  a  brief  sunnnary: 

Car'iboit—DQCY  Preservation  Act  of  1880.  I.  Heie- 
after  no  person  shall  kill  any  caribou  except  from  the 
15th  day  of  September  until  the  loth  day  of  Feb- 
ruary, both  inclusive.  11.  No  person  shall  during 
any  one  year  or  season  kill  more  than  five  stag  and 
three  doe  caribou.  Notwithstanding  anything  con- 
tained in  this  Act,  any  poor  settler  may  kill  caribou 
(or  deer),  for  his  immediate  consumption  or  that  of 
his  family,  or  may  kil]  for  purposes  of  sale  within  the 
Colony  during  the  senson,  between  the  1st  of  October 


liv^WJl-W 


GAME   LAAVS  OF  NKWFOUNDLAND. 


11 


and  tho  loth  of  February,  in  uny  year  not  more  tluiii 
ten  earibou  (or  dcH'r),  but  not  by  any  snare  or  traj),  or 
pit,  or  by  the  hunting  or  chasing  of  dogs. 

Non-Re>^uI(iit  Limm'.^ — III.  No  person  not  actually 
a  resident  in  this  Colony  or  its  dependeneies  shah  kill 
caribou  without  having  first  i)rocured  a  license  for 
the  season,  and  shall  pay  for  such  license  an  annual 
sum  of  |10(  W.  y.  The  license  recpiired  by  this  Act 
may  be  issued  by  a  Stipendiary  ^Magistrate,  ( \jilector 
or  Sub-( Collector  of  Customs,  a  Justice  of  the  Peace, 
and  such  other  oiticers  or  persons  as  may  be  empow- 
ered bv  the  Governor  in  Council  for  that  purpose, 
the  person  requiring  the  license  paying  therefor  one 
dollar. 

Exportation — VIII.  No  person  shall  export  or 
carry  with  him  out  of  this  Colony  any  venison  or  the 
heads,  antlers,  skins  or  other  parts  of  tlie  caribou  with- 
out first  clearing  tlie  same  at  some  Custom  House. 

7^^,s — XI.  Any  i)erson  who  shall  hereafter  kill 
any  caribou  with  dogs  shall  be  liable  to  a  fine  of 

$25.00. 

Ptannujaii,  WiUoir  Gnm.se,  Partri(hjrx—J.  No  per- 
son shall  kill  any  ptarmigan  or  willow  grouse  (com- 
monly called  partridge)  or  any  other  kind  of  grouse 
or  partridge  within  this  Colony  between  the  1 2th  of 
January  and  the  15th  of  September. 


-il 


t 


11 


118 


CAUIBOU  HltOOTING   IX   XEWKOUNDLAXD. 


M.jmton,  llird.-Xn  Act  of  June  11,  18!)(),  ,S  2 
ISO  po..on  sl.all  kill  a„y  cu-low,  plover,  snipe  or 
other  w  1,1  ,nij,,,,tory  l>ird«  (excepting  wild  geese)  be- 
tween the  12tl.  day  of  January  and  the  20th  day  of 

Jioo.sr,  Kit  V.  No  person  shall  kill  a.,y  moose  or 
elk  for  a  period  of  ten  years  from  the  1st  of  January, 

IMM,  Hare.  VIII.  No  person  shall  kill  any  wild 
rabbit  or  hare  from  the  1st  of  March  until  the  1st  of 
September. 

Mmon,  Gnhe,  P,n;  Trout,  Char.  102,  §  II  N(,  sal 
.iK,n  shall  be  taken  before  the  1st  dax-  of  May  or  after 
the  10th  day  of  September.  Trout,  char,  wlutefish, 
hindlocked  salmon.  Chapter  7,  Laws  of  1888  §  I 
Jo  person  shall  catch  any  kind  of  trout,  char,  wliite- 
hsh,  landlocked  salmon  or  any  fresh  water  or  any 
nngratory  fish  between  the  15th  day  of  September 
and  the  bst  day  of  February. 

Soon  after  starthig  on  our  search  for  the  means  of 
complying  with  this  law,  we  n,et  a  policeman,  and  in- 
q«n-e<l  of  him  as  to  who  ,vas  tl,e  proper  pei^on  to  is- 
sue our  ],cense.s.  He  very  courteously  volunteered  to 
accompany  us  to  tlie  Court  House,  ushered  us  in,  gave 
us  comfortable  seats,  and  as  a  cause  ^^-as  being  tried 
we  were  well  entertained  as  it  progres,sed.     Finally 


THE  HTIPENDIAKV   MAIJISTKATE. 


Ill) 


the  Judge  postponed  the  case,  wlien  one  of  the  uni- 
formed officers  of  the  Court  Avas  noticed  hof(hng  a 
sliort  hut  private  wliispering  conversation  with  His 
Honor,  and  lie  at  once  repaired  to  an  adjoining  room 
wliich  proved  to  he  liis  private  office,  and  we  were 
soon  ushered  into  liis  august  presence. 


THE  STIPENDIAKY  MAGISTRATE. 

After  a  greeting  only  such  as  a  hospitable  New- 
foundlander and  the  prospective  recipient  of  |30-').00 
could  accord,  he  passed  the  pipe  and  proceeded  to  tell 
us  of  the  grand  si)ort  to  be  had  with  rod  and  gun  in 
the  Colony.  In  short,  he  had  so  much  to  say  and 
w^as  wound  up  so  tight,  that  half  an  liour  had  passed 
and  nothing  was  done  toward  filling  up  our  certifi- 
cates or  licenses.  Soon  an  officer  appeared,  and  after 
making  a  military  salute,  informed  His  Honor  that 
the  barristers  and  their  clients  were  waiting  his  i)res- 
ence.  Somewdi^.'t  annoyed  at  being  disturljed  in  his 
reverie,  he  curtly  replied,  ''Let  them  wait."  Seeing 
that  there  was  little  i)rospect  of  getting  our  licenses 
without  interfering  with  the  riglus  of  good  people  in 
the  court  room,  the  Avriter  suggested  that  inasmuch  as 
His  Honor's  time  was  valuable  and  we  were  obliged 
to  be  loafers  until  the  Virginia  Lake  sailed  in  five  or 
six  days,  we  would  call  at  a  fixed  hour  in  the  after- 


120 


C.UilBOU  SlfOOTING   IX   XKHFOUNDLAND. 


"<>'>n.     In  tl,o  nioun  tin.o  ho  could  cnu.se  o.r  papers 
:-e  l,n.pa.oa.  w,K.n  It  would  ^ 
.nK.to.„,„,go,H„-|,u«i„,,,     With  so,uo  hcituMcy 
e  consented,  and   u-e  Lowed  ourselves  out  promising 
to  call  at  the  appointed  hour.     We  were  on  hand  at 

thet„nena,ned;howa,si„,u.ofKce,andhadthe 
rt  or  covered  with  six  of  the  finest  gray  wolf  sldns  wo 

ad  ever  see.,  and  upon  which  he  informed  us  he  ha,l 
just  pan  a  oounty  of  »12,.,0  each.     One  of  our  party 
c^en.d  that  they  would  n.d.e  fine  ro 
>oma.ked  w.th  a  sly  twinkle  in  his  eye  that  the  law 

p;..red  hi,,  to  take  possession  of  tl.;  pelts  in  ort 
that  dishonest  persons  n.ight  not  collect  the  l,ou„ty  a 
-^cond  t.ne  on  the  same  animals  !     We  were  soon  re- 
moved of  our  cash,  and  in  return  were  each  in  posses- 
sion of  the  following  license:  ' 


I 


IJ-L- 


i;}^ 


(JAME    TAWS   or    NEWroUNDLANI). 


121 


Police  Office,  St.  John's,  NtwFouNOLANU, 


/€.  c^^i;'-(Q*ei*r,^^  ^'*'*^  ^^/^  /^*^  «^.-^ij/iL— *^ 

i^tttr^  MH/1^^  ^  /C^-Ct^  ^««i*  O^S^  «•-*..■«€.  ~4^*» 


LICENSE — $100.00   AND    100    CENTS. 

In  addition  to  the  restrictions  (contained  in  the 
above,  we  were  obhged  to  subscribe  to  a  written  obli- 
gation that  we  would  use  our  utmost  endeavors  to 
preserve  the  flesh  of  the  animals  taken.  Before  leav- 
ing, he  insisted  on  us  taking  tea  with  him  at  his  villa 
in  the  suburbs  on  the  following  day  (Sunday)  between 
the  hours  of  3  and  5  P.  M. 

9 


I 


-^j^ 


J  22 


CAlvMIJOlI  SHOOTIXCi   IN   NEWFOUNDLAND. 


^in,<h(;i,  Ortohcr  7fli.     TluMMnonietor  50;  cleai",  plcas- 
Jiiit.     This  inoniiuo   we  all  {icr<)]iii)aiii(Ml  our  laiullady 
to  a  \\Vsk'yaii  church,  where  a  hright   Irish  minister 
])i'<'a('he(l  us  a  good,  solid  sermon.     The  congregation 
was  made  up  of  a  good  class  of  ])e()ple,  and  from  their 
general  appearances  there  Avas  no  mistaking  their  in- 
tclhgence  and  standing  in  society.      In  the  afternoon 
v/(3  took  a  walk  to  the  toj)  of  Signal  Hill.     This  hill  is 
situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  channel  entrance  to  the 
hark)]*,  and  is  a.  harren  i-ock  with  two  heautiful  little 
lakes  nestling  on  its  western  slope  just  helow  the  crest. 
Momhit/,  Odohr.r  stL     ^Hiermometer  45;  fog  in  the 
morning.     As  wv.   had  not  yet  laid  in  our  supplies, 
and  from  what  information  we  were  able  to  collect 
concluded  that  St.  John's  was  the  proper  place  to  do 
so,  this  day  (oi-  as  much  thereof  as  was  necessary)  was 
set  apart  for  that  [)urpose;  and  it  is  but  justice  to  the 
St.  John's  nierchants  to  say  that  no  one  can  go  wrong 
in    making   purchases  of  supplies   from   any  of  the 
many  retail  stores  which   line  Water  Street  for  more 
than  a  mile.     Wt;  selected  Bowring  Ih'others,  where 
we  were  ^^'(dl  treat<xl  and  the  goods  furnished  were 
first-class,  fresh  and  at  reasonable  prices. 


EIGHT   MEN   FOR   TWENTY  DAYS. 

As  our  party  would  consist  of  the  five  natives  and 


KKillT   MKX   FOR   TWHXTV   DAYS. 


123 


tliroo  liuntcrs,  wo  luul  to  provide  for  eit'lit  people  for 
the  twenty  days  we  intended  being  away  from  salt 
water,  on  the  basis  that  \ve  wonld  have  fi'oni  the  start 
all  the  fresh  meat  we  eonld  use;  also  salt  suliieient 
for  table  use,  as  well  as  the  euring  of  twenty-four 
hides  and  heads,  in  case  we  should  desire  to  bring 
that  number  out.  Our  past  experience  })roved  of 
value,  and  enabled  us  to  make  ends  meet  verv 
nicely  by  purchasing  the  following  articles — the 
prices  being  appended  to  enable  those  interested  to 
better  calculate  the  expenses  of  a  similar  trip: 


50  pounds  No.  1  liard  bread,  Q'l   7c $3.50 

150       "        flour,  @  4c 0.00 

25       '^        corn  meal,  @  5c 1.25 

30       "        roll  bacon,  ^/    25c 7.50 

30       "        laraily  pork,  @  12c 3.()0 

7       "        coffee,  @   35c 2.45 

4  '•   tea,  h  pound  packs,  @  60c 2.40 

25   "   granulated  sugar,  @  10c 2.50 

5  ''   rice,  @  10c 50 

5   "   beans,  @   7c 35 

^  "        black  pepper,  ([<  20c 10 

20   "   onions,  ^   5c 1.00 

4       ''       candles,  @  20c 80 

10  bags  salt,  @  3c 30 

3  1-pound  cans  Royal  Baking  Powder,  ^(  20c  .60 
1  box  matches 15 


124  CAK'IP.or   SHOOTINd    IX   XEWForNDLANI). 

3  gallons  molasses,  in  3  stone  jugs .$1.25 

1  lantern  for  candles 75 

4  yards  oilcloth 1,25 

1  dozen  cans  milk i.gQ 

$38.05 
Makiii«;-  J|fl2.()8  for  eacli  man's  sliaro,  and  loss  tlian 
two   dollars  a  day  for   twenty  days  for  eiglit  men, 
with  appetites  like  bark  mills. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  bnt  few  luxuries  are  in- 
cluded in   the  forgoing  list,  and  on  that  account  it 
might  not  suit  the  tastes  of  many.     l'>utter,  for  ex- 
ample, might  have  been  added,  and   indeed   many 
other  articles,  but  they  would  have  added  considerable 
Aveight  and  very  little  solid  comfort.     It  will  also  be 
noticed  tliat  what  are  known  as  ''wet  goods,"  ''snake 
bite,"  "tangle  foot,"  etc.,  are  not  included  in  the  out- 
fit.    We  had  two  half-pint  flasks  of  whiskey  with  us, 
to  be  used  for  medicinal  purposes  only,  and  both  were 
taken  back  to  salt  water  with  the  corks  undisturbed. 
Inasmuch  as  it  was  an  impossibility  to  carry  our 
outfit  all  the  \vay  in  at  one  trip,  it  was  evident  that 
what  could  not  be  taken  had  to  be  cached  at  or  near 
the  head  of  West  Pond,  the  end  of  water  transporta- 
tion.    We  tlierefore  had  all  goods  that  could  be  di- 
vided put  up  in  four  different  parcels  and  packed  in 
four  boxes,  each  box  containing  as  near  as  possible 


MISTAKK    NO.    [i. 


12." 


;) 


one  of  {]{{'  four  parts  of  cacli  article.  Tl u'sc  boxes 
were  numl>or(Ml  from  oiu;  to  four  and  four  lunn- 
bcrc'd  lists  inadc  of  their  contents, 


MISTAKE   NO.    :{. 

J  laving  completed  our  ix)nnnissary  purchases,  we 
were  ready  for  the  next  ordei*  of  business,  viz.,  the 
procuring  for  each  a  i)air  of  sealskin  Fiabrador  boots, 
which  we  were  assured  Ijv  A\^dveman  Jlolbi'rtson,  in 
liis  descni)ti()n  of  a  hunt  in  Newfoundland,  were  tlie 
only  footwear  wliich  could  be  used.  He  went  even 
so  far  as  to  assert  that  rubber  goods  could  not  be  used 
in  Newfoundland.  Had  he  advised  ruhher  hoofs  as  the 
on^v  proper  footgear  to  use  on  a  caribou  hunt  in  New- 
foundland, he  would  have  saved  us  from  having  our 
six  legs  pulled  to  the  tune  of  $2.50  per  leg.  We  got 
them  all  right,  at  $5.00  a  pair.  True,  they  are  the 
lightest  boot  made,  and  may  do  on  dry  ice  and  in  dry 
snow,  but  not  to  wade  through  water  halfway  uj)  to 
the  knees.  Tlie}^  are  as  thin  as  Avriting  paper,  and 
the  only  way  you  can  put  them  on  is  when  sopping- 
wet.  They  are  not  Avaterproof  according  to  the 
American  interpretation  of  the  term  as  we  saw  it. 
My  friends  after  testing  theirs  gave  them  to  the  car- 
riers; I  brought  mine  home  as  a  I'elic,  and  they  are 
for  sale  cheap. 


i|- 


■<15I 


I 
I   I 


12(1 


CAKIBOl'    SIIOOTINO    IN    NKWHH  NDr-AND. 


SEEING    THE   CITV. 

Tncsfhij/,  Ocfohcr  fitJi  —  'I'licnnomctcr,  50;  clear. 
Having  Jittcndcd  to  all  tlio  IjiisiiR'ss  iiiattcrs  (U'cinod 
necessary,  this  day  was  s(^t  apart  for  sij^ht-sccMnji:  in 
this  land-locked  city  within  si^^ht  of  the  turhulcnt  At- 
hintic.     For  picturi^squeness  of  situation  there  is  no 


AN    OLD    VIEW    OF    ST.    .fOHN  S. 


other  city  in  North  America  to  compare  with  St. 
John's.  As  the  vovaiijer  comini»;  northward  from 
Cape  Kace  sails  along  the  grim-walled  coast,  Avhose 
rocks  tower  from  two  to  four  hundred  feet  high  and 
hurl  back  the  waves  in  defiance,  the  steamer  sud- 
denly turns  her  prow  shoreward,  as  if  to  dash  herself 
against  the  dark  cliffs.     In  a  few  moments  a  narrow 


-< 


TIIK    NAKK'OVVS. 


127 


Opening  ill  tlio  rocky  wall  is  socn,  ms  if  by  soino  con- 
vulsion of  nature  the  gn^at  dark  rampart  had  hccii 
rent  asunder  and  the  sea  had  rusluMl  in.  As  the  ship 
glides  tln'ough  this  cleft,  the  trav(^ll(M'  looks  not  with- 
out a  touch  of  awe  at  the  great  cl ills  of  dark  re(l  sand- 
stone, piled  in  broken  Uiasses  on  a,  foundation  of  gray 
slate  rock.  On  the  right  hi^  sees  an  ahn(>st  per[)('n- 
dicular  preci[)ice  300  feet  in  height,  above  which  rises 
with  almost  ecpial  steepness  the  crest  of  Signal  Hill, 
520  feet  al)ove  the  level  of  tlu^  sea,  on  which  stands 
the  block  house  for  signalling  vess(^ls  as  they  ap- 
})roach  the  harbor.  On  the  lel't  the  rugged  bill  at- 
tains a  height  of  six  lunidred  i'vvX;  from  its  base;  ;i 
rocky  i)r()inontory  juts  out,  forming  the  entrance  to 
the  Narrows  on  one  sidt^  On  the  summit  of  this 
projection  is  Fort  Andierst  lighthouse,  where  is  heard 
the  hoarse  music  of  the  restless  Atlantic,  whosi;  waves 
lash  the  rocks  beneath. 


THE   NARKOWS. 

Formerly  batteries  armed  with  formidabli^  guns  rose 
one  over  the  other  on  the  })roje(^ting  shoulders  and 
narrow  platforms  of  the  surrounding  clitfs,  and  at  tlic 
narrowx^st  [)oint  a  rock  above  water  stands  off  from 
the  shore  known  as  Chain  Rock,  where  in  former 
times,  during  the  troubles  with  foreign  nations,  a  huge 


' 


12S 


lAlMKor   SliooTINiJ    IN    NKWForXDLA  ND. 


lORT    AMIIKIJST. 


cliain  strrtcliLMl  across  tlie  Narrows,  bolted  into  this 
rock  oil  Olio  si(l(^,  and  raised  or  lowered  as  required 
l)y  a  j)()werful  capstan  on  the  other  side,  [)recluded 
the  |)ossil)U^  eiitraiici'  of  any  liostilc?  Heets. 

Tlie  Narrows  or  channel  leading  to  the  liarl>or  is 
nearly  half  a  niih^  in  length,  and  it  is  not  until  two- 
thirds  of  it  hav(^  heen  passed  that  the  city  of  .')(),()()() 
inhal)itants  (;an  he  seen.  At  the  end  of  the  Narrows 
the  harbor  trends  suddenly  to  the  west,  thus  com- 
pletely shutting  out  th(^  swell  of  the  ocean.  In  ten 
minutes  after  tlu;  bow  is  turned  shoreward  the  steamer 
Ih  safely  moored  in  a  perfectly  land-locked  harbor. 
Vessels  of  the  largest  tonnage  can  enter  at  all  stages  of 
the  tide,  the  rise  of  which  does  not  exceed  four  feet. 


TIIK   CITY 


12'J 


I»('t\V(M'ii  Si«;ii:il  Hill  and  I'^ort  Aiiilici'st,  at  tlic  cii- 
traiicc,  tiic  Narn>\vs  ai'c  ahont  1,100  feet  i'l  width; 
and  at  the  nan'owcst  point.  l)('t^V('l'n  TancaivC  and 
(Jhain  Uocks,  they  ai'c  not  more  than  ()0(i  li-ct  wide 
The  hai'hor  is  one  mile  ham",  half  a  mile  wide,  and  1)0 
t't'ct  diH'p,  with  mud  hotloni :  and  its  ('(|ual  W(add  he 
liai'd  to  lind  anywhci'e. 

The  citv  is  huilt  on  the  iiradnalU'  sIo|)injj,'  hhill*  on 
the  north  side  of  the  harhoi".  (  )n  top  of  the  slope 
tlu'i'e  is  a  larj;(.' level  plain,  which  is  ocen|>ie(l  hy  hean- 
tilul  residences;  and  still  rnrther  northward  is  a 
stretch  of  line  agricultural  land,  divi<led  int(>  many 
fine  farms.  TIk*  i)iMnci[)al  streets  are  Water,  Duck- 
worth and  (Joweii.  Tin?  new  part  l)uilt  since  the  last 
great  tire  in   LSti'i  is  considerahly  improve(l,  and  the 


ST.  John's  burnt  district  after  fire  of  I8OJ. 


130 


CAKIBOr  SHO()TIN(;   IN  NEWFOUNDLAND. 


large  business  liouses  in  tlie  eastern  luilf  of  Water 
Street  compare  favorably  with  similar  structures  in 
cities  of  the  same  size  in  any  part  of  the  United 
States.  There  is  an  excellent  system  of  sewerage,  and 
the  water  supply  cannot  be  excelled.  It  is  obtained 
from  Windsor  Lake,  four  miles  distant,  the  lake  beinc: 
four  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

liELATIVE   DISTANCES. 

St.  John's  is  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  penin- 
sula of  Avalon,  which  presents  a  wide  frontage  to  the 
sea  and  is  the  portion  of  North  America  nearest  to 
the  (.)ld  AVorld.  It  is  sixty  miles  north  of  ( \ipe  Race, 
GOO  miles  from  Halifax,  1,170  miles  from  Montreal, 
1,200  miles  from  Xew  York  and  1,700  miles  from 
Queenstown,  being  1,000  miles  nearer  the  latter  place 
than  is  New  York.  The  codfish  and  seal  industries 
are  well  illustrated  by  a  visit  to  the  large  warehouses 
of  Baine  Johnston,  Job,  Monroe,  Thcrburn  and  many 
others  along  the  dock. 

The  post  office  ^s  a  fine  connnodious  structure  situ- 
ated towards  tlu^  A\'estern  end  of  A\^ater  Street.  The 
upper  fioor  is  devoted  to  the  purposes  of  a  public 
nuiseum,  which  we  found  well  worth  a  visit. 


THE   MUSEUM. 

Here  are  arrayed  specimens  of  all  the  minerals  and 


THE  CATHOLIC   CATHKDK'AL. 


131 


coals  found  in  the  island,  as  well  as  building  stone, 
marbles,  granites,  woods,  etc. 

The  birds,  animals  and  fossil  remains  of  extinct 
species  are  well  represented,  and  the  antiquarian  will 
hnd  a  most  interesting  collection  of  relics  belonging 
to  the  once  powerful  though  now  extinct  aboriginal 
inhabitants,  the  Beothiks,  or  ''Red  Indians."  Here 
are  skulls  and  almost  complete  skeletons  of  this  ex- 
tinct race,  together  with  their  stone  imi)lements.  ar- 
row heads,  gouges,  liatchets,  etc.  The  seal  industry 
is  well  represented  here,  not  only  by  mounted  speci- 
mens, but  a  tine  model  of  a  seahng  vessel,  ice  i)an  and 
the  method  of  capture  in  all  its  phases. 


THE   DKY   DOCK. 

Continuing  our  walk  westward,  the  Long  Bridge  is 
reached,  near  the  head  of  the  harbor,  where  is  the 
dry  dock,  built  of  wood  and  0})ened  in  1.^84.  It  is 
600  feet  long,  8o  feet  wide  and  25  feet  deep  at  low 
water,  and  capal)le  of  accommodating  all  but  the  very 
largest  vessels  atloat.     It  cost  1550,000.00. 


i 


i 


THE  CATHOLIC   CATIIEDKAL. 


This  is  the  largest  and  most  conspicuous  building 
and  stands  on  the  summit  of  the  liill  overlooking  tlie 
citv.     It  is  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross,  237  feet  in 


132 


CAKIUor   SHOOTING   IN    NEWRJINDLAXD. 


THK    CATHOLIC   CATHEDRAL. 


CHURCH   OF   ENGLAND   CATHEDRAL. 


I 


(^riDl    VIDl. 


133 


length  and  180  feet  across  the  transept,  witli  two 
towers  138  feet  high.  Adjacent  to  it  are  the  hisliop's 
palace,  St.  Bonaventnre's  college  and  convent.  The 
whole  group  of  buildings  cost  over  $5()(),0()0.00. 

CHURCH  OF  ENGLAND  CATHEDRAL. 

This  building,  wliicli  stands  about  halfway  up  the 
slope,  will  be  when  conii)leted  one  of  the  finest  eccle- 
siastical echfices  in  l^ritish  America.  IJnifortunately 
it  was  greatly  injured  by  the  great  tire  (^f  1892,  but  is 
being  rapidly  restored. 

THE   PARLIAMENT  HOUSE. 

On  the  military  road  along  the  crest  of  the  ridge 
stands  the  Colonial  Building,  Avhich  contains  cham- 
bers for  the  two  branches  of  the  Legislature,  and  also 
most  of  the  public  offices.  It  is  110  feet  long  and  85 
feet  wide,  and  was  built  in  1847  at  a  cost  of  £100,- 
000.     Near  it  is  the 

GOVERNMENT  HOT^SE. 

This  comfortable  residence  of  the  representative  of 
royalty  is  surrounded  by  well  kept  grounds,  and 
though  plain  in  architecture,  is  a  very  desirable  hab- 
itation. 

QUIDI  VIDL 

Wednesday,  October  lOfh.  Thermometer  50;  rain- 
ing by  spells,  clearing  in  the  afternoon.     To-day  we 


'i 


imi 


i:;i 


CAIv'IlJOr    SIlOOTINd    L\    NKWForNDLANI). 


I'ARLIAMENT    HOUSE. 


i          Ml 

1 

• 

U^^A 

• 

#pkSM 

K^^wK^iwMli 

'^IP 

P^*::-  INWife^^^pl. 

^"^ 

s^gS^JInl^^^ 

B**^ 

f 

^ 

HK| 

^  '•    Pm:..^r  ■|„,.^,C'4',j 

SI   *.i 

^7T— — ■ 

31 

■■■  ..  i*^ 

Li 

CJOVERNMENT    HOUSE. 


QIIDI    VI  1)1. 


1  :\' 


took  an  i  lite  rest  iiiji;  walk  to  aiiotlicr  of*  tlic  j)oiiits  of 
interest  in  the  suburbs  of  this  (|uaint  city.  Those 
visiting  St.  John's  should  not  fail  to  see  this  interest- 
ing little  fishing  village,  (^ui(h  \'i<li,  only  a  short  walk 
of  half  a   mile  from  the  city.     The  road  to  it  leads 


Qrn)i  viDi. 


you  past  the  penitentiary  and  hospital  and  along  the 
shore  of  pretty  (()ui(h  N'idi  Lake,  on  whieh  an  annual 
regatta  is  held  and  in  winter  curling  tournaments. 
The  village  is  a  counterpart  of  lumdreds  which  can 
be  seen*  from  the  vessel  wherever  there  is  a  harbor, 
the  entrance  to  which  is  large  enough  to  admit  of  the 
passage  of  a  fislierman's  boat,  in  this  instance  tlie 
fissure  in  the  rocky  wall  is  not  more  than  from  twelyo 


M 


■yi.- 


VM)  CAKIROr  SHOOTING   IX   NEWFOrXDLAND. 

to  flft(H'n  f(vt  wi(l(>  and  tlic  Imrbor  contains  scarcely 
more  than  an  acre  of  water  snrface.     As  seen   in  the 
illustration,  tlieir  little  cottages  are  clinging  to  the 
rocky  ledges,  whiU^  the  stages  wIrtc  tluy  land  their 
fish  ])r()ject  over  the  water,  as  well  as  the  -flakes"  on 
which  the  cod  are  dried.     Dnring  tlie  fishing  season 
the   whole    process    of   -splitting,"    -heading"    and 
"salting"  can   \n^  seen.     To  add  to  the  picturesque- 
ness  of  the  scene,  a  little  river  which  flows  through 
Lake  Quidi  forms  a  beautiful  little  cascade  as  it  fidls 
over  the  rocks  into  the  diminutive  harbor. 


(MI  APT  Ell    XIV 


OFF   FOR   THE    HUNT. 


T^Tortlnvard  240  Miles  More — Arrival  at  Pilley's  Island — Down 
Hall's  Buy  in  the  Nijjhiu — Mistake  Ko.  4— Hotel  Le  Bufle 
— The  Guide  and  His  Family — Forward  to  West  Pond — 
Big  Marsh — ''  Grub"  or  Tea  and  Tobacco — Our  Cabin. 

1 1 1;  RSDAY,  October  1 1th  — Tiicrinoinettir, 
48;  clear  and  pleasant.  An  early  visit  to 
the  Coastal  Steamship  Company's  office  had 
elicited  tlie  welcome  information  that  the  aS.  aS.  Vir- 
(jinia  Lake  wonld  sail  at  11  A.  M.  We  soon  had  our 
dunnage  on  hoard,  tickets  purchased  and  state  rooms 
assigned  us;  and  long  ere  the  time  for  departure  we 
were  on  hand,  anxious  to  get  off — though  the  time 
spent  in  St.  Jolm's  had  not  hung  heavily  on  our 
hands.  The  Vi)'<jl7ii(i  Jjtke  is  a  handsome  boat,  and 
her  commander,  Capt.  Taylor,  we  found  to  be  one  of 
the  most  jovial  and  acconnnodating  gentlemen  we 
had  met.  Nothing  was  too  much  trouble  for  him 
when  tlie  comfort  of  liis  passengers  entered  into  the 
(question.  The  illustration  shows  Mr.  Moore,  an  old 
native  sea  captain,  retired,  and  Captain  Taylor  of  the. 
Virginia  Lake. 

10  (  137  ) 


Ml 


ii 


w 


1 :58 


t'AKinor    SII()()TIN(i    IN    NKWForNDLANI). 


TWO    OLD    N ATI VI-:    SALTS. 


Friditi/,  October  IJth.  Thcrnioinctcr,  40;  ruining. 
To-day  wo  passed  sovt'i'al  icel^orgs — in  fact  tlioy  could 
bo  soon  almost  at  any  timo  during  tho  day. 

tSaturddt/,  (kfohcr  loth.  Tliorinoniotor  40;  clear. 
Arrived  at  Pool  Island  at  6  A.  M.  This  is  a  small 
town  in  a  Hue  harbor,  and  is  noted  for  its  being  the 
rosidonco  of  several  wealthy  seal  captains.  The 
houses  are  built  mostly  upon  the  rocks.  One  of 
them,  more  pretentious  than  tho  rest,  had  transported 
earth  and  formed  quite  a  pretty  lawn  around  his  resi- 
dence.    This  was  a  charming  day,  clear  and  pleasant, 


i^i;JUEi£UiKCL'^«_.A^^_-S. .. 


AUKIVAJ.   AT   PJ I. LEY'S    ISLAM). 


1  :v,) 


cnnhlini;'  lis  to  spt'iid  most  of  the  time  on  deck.  Dur- 
ing tlio  nftornooii  we  met  ii  sli'iiii;'  of  lishiiii;  scliooncrs 
mnnlu'riiii;-  soventv-iivi*  or  ciLdilv  on  llicir  way  from 
the  nortli(!i'n  I isliiiii^-,  grounds;  and  as  the  icteburgs 
were  still  floating  hy,  relieving  the  monotony,  the 
time  passed  rapidly  and  pleasantly. 

^Su^i(h^l/,  OcfoJx'r  Lifli-  TlieiMnometer  50;  clear. 
Steamer  ealled  at  Franklin  llarlx)!'  at  .S  A.  M.  As 
this  was  our  last  day  aboard,  the  steward  had  pi'e|)ared 
a  special  breakfast,  the  principal  dish  being  fresh  cod- 
fish heads  with  cream  sauce  dressinii".  It  is  hardly 
neciessary  to  say  that  with  our  sharpened  apjx'tites  we 
Avere  fully  competent  to  do  Justice  to  this,  one  of  the 
luxuries  of  a  Newfoundland  epicui'e.  After  a.  delight- 
ful sail  of  two  hours  after  breakfast,  the  ship's  course 
became  more  and  more  tortuous  as  she  glided  through 
narrow  channels  between  islands,  and  the  rei)eated 
orders  ''A  little  more  to  starboard,  Sir,"  and  "A  little 
more  to  larboard,  Sir,"  of  the  old  salt  at  the  wheel 
more  frequent.  We  Avere  delighted  at  the  sudden  ap- 
pearance of  open  water  hemmed  in  by  a  rock-bound 
coast,  and  at  ll:oO  A.  M.  we  were  at  the  docks 


AT   PILLEYVS   ISLAND. 

We  had  l)een  in  communication  with  Mr.  H.  Af. 
Herbert,  who  has  charge  of  the  Pilley's  Island  Pyrites 


no 


CAianor  siiootinc  in  nkwfoundlam). 


(\).  store,  and  who  was  on  (he  dock  at  the  lime  of  our 
ai-rival.  We  wci'c  nol  loiii;-  in  inakiiii;-  ai'i'an.i^cinents 
witli  him  and  the  mana.iic  r  of  (he  mine  to  send  »is 
down  to  the  head  of  IlaH's  I*)ay  (2.")  miles),  in  llicii- 
beautiful  iitth?  stc^am  launch  "  AV/;//// "  for  a  consider- 
ation of.fl().()(). 


l>OWN    MAIJ/S    IJAV    [N    TlIK    NU'KIX. 

l*>v  the  time  we  ha'i  made  ai'ran.i;-ements  for  tin? 
huuich,  the  ,L,aiide,  Rieliai'd  Le  IJulle,  shoW(Ml  Uj)  as 
per  ])revious  arrangement  to  mecjt  us  at  Pillev's  Is- 
laiid.  and  this  [)roved  to  he; 

MISTAKE    NO.     I, 

inasnuK^h  as  he  was  three  days  from  honu;,  foi*  which 
time  we  paid  |:].()()  a  day.  It  was  not  long  hefore  we 
iiad  ourselves  and  baggage  on  l)oard,and  at  2:45  \\  M. 
our  Captain  (Mr.  Colburn,  tiie  inine  boss)  sounded  th(? 
wliistle,  opened  the  valve  and  in  the  pr(\senee  of 
about  half  the  population  of  the  island  we  steamed 
off* down  the  l)ay  Mt  the  rate  of  six  nu'les  an  liour,  ar- 
riving at  the  head  of  tlie  ])ay  at  7::>5  P.  j\J.  The 
wdiistle  was  souucUmI  when  within  alxait  a  mile  of  our 
landing  plaee,  which  ])roughttw^o  boats  manned  by  our 
carriers,  who  soon  transferred  ourselves  and  l)a<i'aaiie 
to  shore  and   within   fifty  yai'ds  of  our  guide's  (;abin.. 


ii()'n;i,  u:  isri'ii:.  Ill 

'Pile  \()\'ni;('  <!<>wii  the  l)nv  was  xcrN'  atd'actiNc,  the 
coast  sc('ii('i-v  liciii.i;"  so  (lilli'rciil  in  the  iiortlicni  pciiiii- 
siila  IVoiii  that  ol"  the  soutlicni.  In  the  soiitlici-n  hall" 
of  the  island  llic  coast  is  little  t»ut  hari'cn  rocks,  while 


HOTEL    LK     lU'KKE,    HALES    I5AY 


north  of  lionavista  l>ay  the  hills  arc  covered  with  a 
profuse  growth  of  foliage,  and  in  the  fall  months  the 
autumn  leaves,  intersperscHl  with  the  deep  dark  green 
of  the  fir,  Jiniiper  and  cedars,  pivsent  l)eautiful  j)i(;- 
tures  not  soon  to  1x3  forgotten.  I1ic  afternoon  was 
one  of  the  choicest,  the  air  pure  nnd  invigorating,  and 


1  12 


CAiniUX     SIlOOriNC    in    NKWI'orNDI.WD. 


both  shores  of  the  hay  (owin,!;*  to  its  iiarrowiuss)  h(Mii«; 
within  si'Mit,  we  all  ciiJovmI  to  the  t'lilk'st  cvtciit  tlic 
ride  down.  'Wi  add  to  the  |)ietin'es<|Ueness  of  the 
sccniery,  every  now  and  then  the  sleek  heads,  with 
hnnian-like  eves,  of  tlu^  hav  seal  would  hoh  up,  laUe 
in  the  situation  and  duck,  rea[)pearing  fifty  t(»  a  hun- 
dred and  liftN'  vai'ds  awav. 


AT    IIOTKL    Li:    lU  ITK. 

Kiehard  Ja' JUille  is  1)V  hirth  a  French  ( 'anadian, 
and  has  heen  a  resident  of  Newfoundland  for  ov(m* 
twentv  years;  ahout  fortv-two  vears  of  ai^'e,  strong, 
wiry  and  rather  intelligent  and  untii'ini;'  in  his  eni)rts 
to  anticii)ate  the  wants  of  his  ein|)loyers;  and  if  the 
bivouac  is  crowded  he  will  curl  himself  up  like  a  doii* 
and  sleej)  l^eside  tlu^  tire  rather  than  crowd  the  mourn- 
ers. As  a  still  hunter  he  cannot  l)e  excelled  ;  he  un- 
derstands every  trick  [)ertaining  t  craft,  an<l  in- 
variablv  divines  the  intentions  .  leader  of  a  luM-d 
of  the  tijreat  doer  from  tluur  i..  .neu\  v-ring,  though  a 
mile  otr.  His  family  consists  of  a  wife  and  four  (chil- 
dren, three  little  girl;  and  a  small  boy.  The  wife  is  a 
daughter  of  ''old  man  Goodyear,"  who  lives  in  a  lit- 
tle cove  several  miles  U])  the  bay — ;i  native  New- 
foundlander, whose  whole  life  has  been  spent  in  seal 
and  cod  fishing ;  and  although  nearly  seventy  years 


\  f 


WUi.lli 


mmmmmp 


I'OUWAKD   TO    \Vi:sT    I'OND. 


1 1:'> 


of  ujj;!'  \\v  s('rv('(l  as  cook  aiid  carrici'  I'oi'  oui'  outllt, 
jiiul  stoo(l  uj)  iindcras  heavy  a  load  as  any  of  tlic  rest. 
Mrs.  Lc  liiiMi'  is  a  ^ood  (  •hristiaii  woman  and  a  mcni- 
bor  of  the  ('hni'(;h  (►!'  Kn,iilan<l;  and  altlionj^li  she  has 
not  had  an  oj>iK)rtnnity  of  att('n(hn,i;"  chnrcli  foi*  seven 
years,  her  ehiUh'en  are  re(|nire(l  to  ^o  to  [)rayers  twice 
a  day  and  those  of  them  who  are  old  enon,i;h  are  fa- 
miliar with  the  creed.  The  shriek  of  the  .\7y>////'N 
whistle  was  also  a  sii;'nal  for  this  <''ood  honsewife,  and 
by  tlie  time  we  had  our  dmniaj^e  unloaded  and  taken 
care  of,  she  had  hot  biscuit,  molasses,  tea  and  other 
viands  in  readiness,  and  the  hunij;ry  crowd  soon  felt 
the  l)etter  of  a  square  meal.  After  tea,  a  i^eneral 
pow-wow  and  smoke  followed,  and  ])V  \():?>0  we  retired 
to  a  temporary  bod,  made  on  the  floor  of  the  cabin. 

M())Hl(ft/,  Ortoher  hVli.  Thermometor  GO  at  0  i\  M. 
All  were  u[)  at  5  A.  ^I.,  an<l  to  our  <;Teat  disappoint- 
nncnt  found  a  good  rain  on.  Decided  not  to  move 
until  the  weather  cleared  uj),  which  it  <lid  at  2  P.  SI  , 
and  we  had  some  sport  duck  and  snipe  shooting  on 
the  bay  head,  in  the  meantime  the  (carriers  moved 
our  goods  and  chattels  uj)  WY'st  Pond  Brook,  three 
miles  to  the  foot  of  West  Pond,  where  they  were 
cached  under  the  canoes  and  oilcloth  mentioned  under 
the  head  of  supplies.  It  will  be  noticed  that  under 
that  head  potatoes,  or  "spuds,"  as  they  are  called  in 


144 


CAlillJOl     SIIOOTINC;    IN    NHWForNDl.AM). 


N(j\vfuan(llaii(l,  wviv  not  nR'iitioiicil.  TIh'sc  wltc;  i'ur- 
nisliod  l)v  liC  lUifU',  from  a  iiiu'  d'op  of  u'ood  varieti(?s 
and  fine  specimens. 

TtU'.sdiit/,  Odolnr  Ih'f/i.  Thermometer  4S ;  clear.  All 
hands  were  n[)  at  4  A.  M..  and  by  five  we  were  on  the 
march,  and  reached  tlie  foot  of  the  i)on(l  in  tlui  gray 
of  the  morninii".  Soon  on'*  outlit  was  loaded,  and  the 
five  miles  u\)  the  pond  was  made  at  a  good  pace. 
There  bcMng  no  wind  the  water  was  as  placid  as  a  mill 


I 


Martin  Williaius.  , las.  Siiinli'is.  Kicli.  Li'lJufl".  IiKiiaii  .liiii.  Kirh.  (iootlycar. 

OUR    NATIVE    CARRIERS    AND   GUIDE. 


n 


a 


^-ift*. 


!V, 


OIK    (  AIUX    OX    TIIK    r.K;    MAKSH. 


145 


% 


pond.      Arn'viiii:-  at    tlic    head    of  the   j)ond    wo    pro- 
ceeded  uj)  tlie  ])rook   about  a    mile,   oi-  as    f'ai'  as  it 
!s  navigal)le  tor  canoes  duriiii;'  low   water.      Here  we 
caclied  our  supplies,  each  hunter  carryinii'  in  his  pack 
about  twenty-iive  pounds  besides  his  uun.  the  guide 
and    cai'riers   taking    the   stove   and   one    j)ackage   of 
su])[)lies.  lu'sides  our  personal   l>aggage,  bedding,  etc. 
Xeither  the  guide  nor  can-iers  took  guns,  as  tlie  liun- 
ters  are  supposed  to  do  all  the  shooting.    The  trail  was 
good,  with   but  two  or  three  sliort  hills  until  we  ar- 
i-ived  at  the  foot  of  the  Big  Marsh,  some  three  miles 
from  cam]).    This  was  laborious  tramping,  as  without  a 
load  an  oi-dinary  sized  man  would  sink  to  the  aidvles 
in  the  ooze  at  every  stej).     During  the  whole  day  we 
made  short  marches  of  a  mile  and  a  half  or  two  miles, 
when  a  halt  would  be  made;  and  half  a  dozen  times 
during  the  Journey  the  natives  would   ''bile  the  kit- 
tle,'* as  they  call    making    tea.      (Jive  a    Newfound- 
lander his  choice  between   plenty  of  grul)  and  no  tea 
and  tobacco,  or  tea  and  tobacco  and  no  grub,  and  it 
Avould  take  hi>  i  but  a  moment  to  decide  in  favor  of 
the  tea  and  tobacco.      W'e  ari'ived  at 


» 


OIR  CABIN  ON  THE  BKJ  MARSH 

just  before  sundown,  giving  us  ample  time  to  prepare 
supper,  add  fresh  boughs  to  the  sleeping  apartment. 


./!'/' 


^VPIMP-JJIHIM)  LMIimHH,  I  VmtT"'^ 


14(j 


CAKIBOr   SHOOTING    FN    NHNVFOINDLANI). 


t'ABIN    OX    THE    BHi    MAKSH.       (Seo  niiip  for  IdCiitioiit 


etc.,  and  as  wo  wvw  all  tired,  wo  slept  the  sleep  of 
the  just. 

And  now,  being  fairly  on  the  ground,  w(^  will  de- 
vote the  concluding  cluipter  to  the  record  of  the  hunt 
propel*,  hoping  that  our  success  and  our  enjoyment  of 
it  niav  lead  many  others  to  follow  our  exanii)le. 


^nC.*    ■-'■  -'  iV^ 


CHAPTER   XV. 


KECOKD  OF  TJ[E  HUNT. 

The  Cabin — Furniture — Thirty-seven  Caribou  seen  though 
Raining  the  First  Day— The  "  Lookouts  "—The  Doctor's 
Blind— Fresh  Meat  Plentiful—"  Indian  Jim  "—We  begin 
to  Select  Kepresentative  Heads — Tlie  Kid's  Red  Letter 
Day— ''Kep"  Kills  the  Wrong  Deer— William  Paul,  the 
Micmac  and  Family — Curing  the  Specimens— Killing  at 
Twenty  feet— Kep's  Red  Letter  Day— Battle  of  the  Stags— 
The  ''  King  " — The  Doctor  Makes  a  Long  Shot,  but  gets 
Broken  Antlers— The  "  Emperor  "—Our  Quota  Nearly 
Filled— Preparing  Trophies  for  Transportation—"  Exhibi- 
bition  "  Stag— Bear  Tracks— Back  to  Salt  Water— No  l^lail 
frorii  Home — How  to  Pack  Specimens — At  Pilley's  Island 
Again— We  Want  to  go  Home— "  Able  Seamen  "—Mr. 
Kepler  Collars  the  Traps  at  St.  John's,  while  we  go  on  to 
lioston  and  Home— Conclusion. 

HE  pages  of  this  concjliiding  ehaptcn*  have 
been  purposely  held  closely  to  tlu^  notes 
made  at  the  time  on  the  spot.  Imagina- 
tion has  no  place  here;  the  trophies  are  pictured  by 
unflattering  sunliglit,  the  originals  are  in  our  posses- 
sion, to  be  freely  exhibited  to  the  inciuiring  guest. 
We  give  the  record  as  it  is,  believing  the  class  we  hope 

(  147  ) 


I 


148 


CAiiinor  sn()()Ti\(;  i\  nicwfoindlaxi). 


to  have  as  rcadcis  will  tliiis  reeoivo  most  pleasure  and 
benefit. 

Wcdiir.stldi/,  (h'tohci-  17 th.  'riiciMuonieter  lO ;  tln-cat- 
ening.  Tlie  cook  liad  no  diiiicultv  in  awakem'ng  any 
of  tlie  party  for  breakfast  by  dayli.^lit ;  all  were  astir. 
Kepler,  "tlu^  Kid"  (J.  W.  Davis)  and  Lei  Uitfe  started 
out  for  fresh  meat,  while  the  writer  took  charge  of  the 
carriers  and  put  the  eanip  in  shape.  The  cal)in  was 
a  eornproniise  between  a  lean-to  and  a  regular  log 
cal)in.  The  roof  was  leaky,  and  the  smoke-hole  had 
to  be  closed.  The  reai-  wall,  which  was  only  about 
eighteen  inches  from  the  ground,  Avas  built  up  to  four 
feet;  a  new  bir(4i-bark  roof  was  put  on,  a  stone  plat- 
form Avas  built  for  the  stove,  and  it  was  put  up; 
"splits"  were  secured,  and  from  them  tables  were 
made,  which  were  covered  with  birch  bark.  The  tent 
was  pitched,  and  surplus  goods  were  stored  therein. 
As  the  camp  was  located  in  the  edge  of  the  timber 
fronting  the  marsh,  a  fairly  good  view  of  the  latter 
could  be  had  from  the  innnediate  vicinity  of  the  cabin  ; 
and  during  the  day  the  writer  and  the  other  men  at 
work  saw  nineteen  caribou  passing  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  marsh,  some  three-(piarters  of  a  mile  dis- 
tant. 

Rain  began  to  fall  about  noon,  and  the  i)arty  who 
went  out  after  meat  came  into  camp  empty-handed, 


THE    "LOOKOl'TS." 


\V.) 


though    reporting  luiviiig  seen  eighteen  earibuu,   hut 
out  of  range. 

TJiursday  Octolnr  ISfh. — Tliernioineter  52  ;  tlire.it- 
ning.  Kep  and  tlie  Kid,  guided  by  Le  liude,  went 
down  the  niarsli  alxnit  tln'ee-(|uarters  of  a  mile  to  what 
is  known  as  the  "  lower  lookout."  These  "  lookouts  " 
are  certain  trees  which  the  guides  have  trinnned  U[)  in  a 
convenient  manner  for  climbing,  ani'  .iomc  vantage 
point  where  a  good  view  can  be  had  ')f  the  marsh. 
The  lower  lookout  consists  of  a  scraggy  pine  al)out 
fifteen  inches  in  diameter  and  some  thirty  feet  high, 
standing  in  a  point  of  timber  in  a  somewhat  elevatiul 
position.  The  guide  would  climb  the  tree,  sit  in  a 
crotch  tbrmed  by  the  trunk  and  a  branch,  and  wdtli  a 
tield  glass  he  was  enabled  to  scan  the  marsh  from  one 
side  to  the  other,  as  well  as  a  mile  above  and  below. 
When  he  sighted  the  gjime,  he  invariably  called  out 
''Deer  on  the  mash?"  and  when  he  had  satistied 
himself  as  to  what  lead  thev  were  likelv  to  take,  he 
slid  down  the  tree  like  a  cat,  and  keeping  one  of  the 
many  small  islands  scattered  over  the  marsh  between 
him  and  his  (piarrv,  he  w'ould  bid  the  hunters  follow 
and  imitate  his  movements,  wdiich  would  consist  of 
running,  sneaking,  w'alking  and  crawling  in  his  en- 
deavors to  intercept  the  game,  in  which  he  usually 
succeeded. 


150 


CAIilHOU   SMOOTINC    IN    NKWFOl  NDLAND. 


'Pile  writer  selected  a  point  some  fiv(3  liundred  yards 
in  front  of  the  cabin  and  al)ont  the  niiddUi  of  th(^ 
niai'sli,  neai'  a  well  used  trail,  an<l  which  afterwards 
l)ecanie  known  as  "The  Doctor's  Blind,"  and  is  well 


"  THE    doctor's    J5L1XD.'' 


shown  in  the  illustration.  A  tree  had  been  blown 
down,  leaving  nothing  but  an  u})turned  decayed  root. 
By  placing  boughs  in  front  and  sticking  others  upright 
in  the  root,  a  first-class  blind  was  made;  and  to  make 
it  perfect  a  temporary  seat  was  added. 


1  , 

r 


•"""""^^■UPMI 


,(*t»,_._*j^  ..Jl,- 


FKKSH    MKAT    I'LENTIFl'L. 


ir,i 


To  return  to  tlic  day's  liuiil  the  wi-itor  saw  sixtiHMi, 
killed  a  tiiic^  fat  barren  doe  and  wounded  a  vouni;" 
stag;  Ke])  killed  a  line  doe  and  the  Kid  killed  a  fair 
stag,  with  a  good  set  ol"  antlers,  at  a  single  shot  — 
which  was,  by  the  way,  the  tirst  inend)er  of  the  deer 
I'aniily  he  had  ever  shot  at.  They  re})orted  having 
seen  twelve  in  all. 

All  hands  were  in  eanu)  bv  )>  1*.  M.,  and  it  is  nee<l- 
less  to  say  that  thereafter  fresh  meat  was  plenty  in 
camp,  and  the  natives  were  "scaHiingv'  some  for  their 
winter's  meat,  which  they  took  out  with  their  dog 
sledges  after  the  snow  came  and  the  streams  and  lakes 
were  frozen  over. 

it  might  be  well  to  state  here  that  the  middle  of 
October  is  about  the  height  of  the  rutting  season,  and 
tlu^  old  stags  ai-e  not  tit  for  food,  their  flesh  being  so 
muskv  that  it  is  impossible  to  use  it. 

Friday,  October  lOtJi.  Thermometer  35;  threatening. 
Tiei^uffe  and  the  writer  hunted  west  to  what  is  known 
as  liamah's  Lookout,  two  and  a-half  miles.  We 
sighted  but  eight  deer,  and  on  (jur  return  to  camp  1 
shot  a  fine  doe.  Kep  and  Jimmy  Goodyear  (or,  as 
he  will  be  known  hereafter,  "Indian  Jim")  went  still 
farther  west,  two  and  a-hah'  miles,  to  what  is  called 
''Grandfather's  Lookout." 

The  Kid  remained  in  camp  and  paid  some  atten- 


1 


')j! 


CAiniWM     Sll<)(>TIN(;    I X    NKWroCNDl.A  \I). 


ti(m  to  the  homo  marsli,  hut  no  (](>(. r  passed.  I*,v  tli<' 
middle  of  the  arteniooii  we  were  all  in,  and  as  the 
deer  were  not  travellin.i;'  it  was  an  nncvcnll'ul  day. 

As  ivfeivnce  lias  Iummi   made  to   Indian  .lim  aetin,ii- 
as^uide  to  Mi-.  I\ej)ler,  it  is  well  to  state  that  he   is  a 
character,  and  deserves  more  than  j)assin,ii-  notice.    ll(> 
is  twenty-three  years  old,  stands  six  feet  in   his  moc- 
(,'asins,  straii^lit  as  an  arrow,  and  lithe  as  a  catamount. 
He  was  horn  in  the   little  cove  where    his  father  still 
resides,  and   is  a  (;hild  of   nature,   knowinii'    little  or 
notliin.i;-  of  the  ways  of  civilization.      Most  of  liis   life 
has  been  s|)eiit  with  the  nei.i»hhonno' lAFicmac    Indians, 
and  from  the  time  lie  eould  follow  has  accompanied 
tliem  on  their  annual  fall   hunts  for  meat  and  hides; 
aii<l  when  older  he  spent  his  sunnners  either  alone  oi- 
in    company    with    one   or   two     Indians,   travellin.i'- 
through  the  interior  with  gun,  traps  and  provisions— 
the    latter   consisting   mostly  of  tea   and  tobaccMj — in 
search   of  fur-bearing  animals  for  their  pelts.      In  his 
excursions  he   would  often  be  absent  from    home  six 
weeks  or  two  months.      If  in  a  good  locality  and  the 
tea  or  tobacco  ran  short,  Jimmy  would  think  nothing 
of  travelling  without  a  compass  through  the  unbroken 
wilderness  forty  or  tifty  miles  in  search  of  the  needful 
commodities.     He  can  call  tlie  sly  beaver  to  within  a 
rod  of  his  regulation  muz/Ae-loading  smo()the-])ore  gun. 


\ 


INDIAN    .ll.M. 


i:>:; 


IuhkIIc  ;i  cniioc  like  Jin  l"]s<niiiiiau.\  liis  knyak,  and 
still  hunt  like  a  panther.  In  wood-cral't  lie  lias  notli- 
ini^"  to  Icavn,  liavinii' practiced  all  its  tricks  from  cliild- 
lioud,  inclndin,i;"  the  iii' antations  and  snpcrstitioiis 
cin'cnionics  of  liis  dark-skimicd  tntoi's  ;  and  witlial  lie 
is  as  jU'entle  as  a  land),  ti'iitlit'nl  and  obedient. 

Siifnrddi/,  Odohcr  .,^(K     'riieniionieter  i)"2  ;  windy  and 
clear.      Fee  one-oigiitli    incli    tliick,   which    is  the   first 


INDIAN   .JIM. 


11 


w^ 


154 


CAIilBOf   SllOOTINCJ    IX   NEWFOUNDLAND. 


we  luive  seen  cxce})!  in  the  shajK'  of  bergs  on  our  way 
vi|)  the  eoast.  The  writer  oeeu[)ie<l  the  l)hn(l  on  the 
liome  niarsli  ti  sliort  time  in  the  forenoon,  und  an  hour 
and  a-ludf  in  the  afternoon;  saw  six  deer,  but  as  they 
were  not  ornamented  with  antlers  they  were  allowed 
to  i)ass,  though  within  easy  range.  "The  Kid"  and 
L(^  ]>utle'  went  south  a  short  distance,  saw  fourteen, 
liad  one  shot  but  missed — a  fine  head.  Indian  Jim 
and  Ke})  went  west,  saw  three  deer  in  sliort  range, 
heads  no  good ;  reserved  fire. 

At  first  we  were  shooting  for  meat ;  now  as  Ave  myst 
not  shoot  more  than  the  eight  allowed  by  law,  it 
dawns  u})on  us  that  none  but  representative  h'^ads 
must  be  shot  at,  or  s(miebody  will  get  left  wLjn  the 
trophies  come  to  be  counted.  Twenty-three  seen  in 
all  to-day. 

Sunday,  Odober  Jlsf.  Thermometer  32  ;  cloudy  and 
high  wind.  Moderated  toward  evening  and  began 
raining.  All  remained  in  camp  to-day.  But  four 
deer  passed  the  camp,  two  of  them  within  range. 

Afondai/,  Ocfoher  JJd. — Thermometer  37  ;  misty. 
Kep  and  Le  Bufle  went  down  the  marsh,  saw  eight 
deer  and  could  have  killed  two.  The  Kid  and  Jimmy 
saw  twenty-three,  but  did  not  shoot,  though  they  filed 
past  them  within  thirty  yards.  The  writer  saw  three 
and  could  have  killed  two  but  did  not.         ;  ^  — -—- 


Si:Li:(TIN(i    KKI'I.'KSKNTATIVH   lIK.vn. 


155 


Ti((siJ(ii/,  Ocfohrr  J-J<l. — 'PhornioiiK^tt'i'  32;  clear. 
The  writer  watclicd  his  blind  in  the  moniin.u',  and 
.saw  hnt  one  deer  which  was  in  range  hut  allowed  to 
pass,  in  tlie  afternoon  went  to  South  Hills  near  camp, 
and  could  have  killed  two  does.  Indian  Jim  and 
the  Kid  went  south  this  morning  and  retui-ned  betbre 
noon,  the  Kid  walking  i)roudlyand  Indian  Jim  bend- 
ing under  the  weight  (►f  two  immense  antlcM'ed  heads. 
As  this  was  the  Kid's  red  letter  day  the  author  will 
allow  him  to  tell  how  it  happened  : 

''.lim  was  a  few  steps  ahead,  no  deer  were  in  sight 
from  the  Lower  Lookout,  and  as  the  main  lead  to  the 
South  Hills  opened  into  the  Big  ^NLirsli  Just  below  the 
Lowei'  Lookout  tree,  he  swung  bis  long  right  arm  to 
the  right,  pointing  down  a  little  stream,  as  he  said  : 
'We  walk  half  an  hour,  find  big  grandfatlier  stag.' 
^Vll  right,  .Jim,  A\'e  will  walk.'  Half  an  liour  later 
found  us  passing  out  of  a  little  valley  into  a  large 
marsh,  or  rather  series  of  marshes.  Just  then  three 
deer,  all  does,  roundc^d  a  little  point  of  Avoods.  Jim 
croucbed  down  on  the  marsh,  and  the  deer  came  to- 
ward us  at  a  slow  walk  until  within  seventv-five  yards, 
Avhen  they  began  to  be  suspicious  and  baited.  As  we 
had  i)lenty  of  meat  and  the  deer  had  no  antlers,  1 
did  not  intend  killing  any,  but  Avas  just  admiring 
their  sleek,  round  bodies  when  Jim's  Indian  instincts 


wr 


f 


1  m; 


CAJunou  snooTixd  i\  xewkoindlanp. 


i^ol  tlic  hcttci"  of  liim  mikI  lie  wliispcrcd  to  iiic,  '  I'liipli ! 
VOll  niil\'  kill  one  (leer.  I  like  to  luivc  lid  to  cat  this 
winter:  nice.  I'at  ' — at  the  same  time  pointing  t()  a  line 
doe  in  the  lead.  'Well,  Jim,  Til  trv" — raising  mv 
gun  as  I  spoke,  'i'he  deer  saw  the  mo\ement  and 
turned  to  llee,  hut  it  was  Ujo  late;  the  leaden  messen- 
g(;r  Ijad  found  the  fatal  sj)ot  in  the  foi'e  shouUha",  and 
the  (loe  rolled  ovei".  A  few  l)ounds  aixl  Jim  was  as- 
tride of  her,  an<l  his  long  knite  was  letting  her  life- 
hlood  out.  Fn  ji  few  moments  the;  doe  was  disem- 
howeled  and  |)la('ed  out  (►!"  the  I'eacli  of  'varmints/ 
where  it  would  remain  until  the  snow  came,  when  Jim 
with  his  dogs  and  sled  would  ti'ansport  it  to  his 
iuiml)l(3  cahin  neai'lv  thirty  liiiles  distant.  Soon  we 
were  on  our  way.  'Never  mind,'  says  Jim;  4ind  big 
grandfather  stag  by-\ni-hy.'  We  had  not  travelled 
mow  than  tifty  yards  until  Jim  dropped  to  the  ground, 
J  doing  the  same;  and  trying  to  imitate  the  move- 
ments of  a  serpent  w^e  crawded  into  some  bushes  near 
by.  Jim  craned  his  long  neck  out,  while  1  lay  close 
to  the  gronnd  and  he  counted  ^  one,  tw^o,  three,  four, 
five — fifteen — old  grandfather  stag  behind.  Wait.' 
Turning  my  head  I  could  see  the  feet  of  the  passing 
herd  about  fifty  yards  away.  Suddenly  Jim  parted 
the  bushes  and  said,  'there  un  ]>ig  stag,  sir.'  Taking 
a   quick   but   careful   aim,    I    dropped    him    Avith    a 


Tin:  KIDS  L'Ki)  m:tti;k'  day. 


157 


shot  beliitid  the  shoulders.  Twice  lie  trie(l  to  rise, 
wheii  .lini  ssiid,  'Slioot'  li'iii,  sir'  which  I  (hd, 
and  the  second  l)all  sent  liini  to  the  happy  hunt- 
ing grounds.  This  stag,  whicli  would  have  weigluMl 
at  least  050  pounds,  was  the  largest  I  killed,  and  had 
a  niagnificent  head  of  horns.  Jini  soon  had  him 
turned  bottom  side  up  ready  to  dress,  when  looking 
up  the  marsh,  half  a  mile  distant  I  saw  an  immense 
stag  with  antlers  like;  a  brush  heai).  'Jim!  Jim!'  J 
exclaimed — and  away  he  ran,  and  1  after  him, 
through  the  woods,  ovei'  a  little  marsh  into  another 
little  woods,  where  we  crawled  up  to  a  herd  twenty- 
two  ill  number.  The  deer  were  feeding,  but  soon  be- 
came aware  that  something  was  near  that  boded  no 
good  and  began  to  edge  off,  and  as  tlioy  advanced, 
kept  looking  back.  1  could  have  killed  a  doe  several 
times,  but  1  was  after  horns ;  but  to  save  nu^  1  could 
not  get  a  shot  at  the  old  stag.  At  last  they  readied 
the  open  marsh  and  stood  like  frightened  cattle.  The 
old  warrior  turned  ])roadside,  and  stepping  on  a  rock 
nearby,  1  raised  on  tip-toe,  fired  over  the  back  of  a  doe, 
and  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  my  stag  dro})  dead. 
He  had  the  largest  antlers  1  secnred.  As  we  ran  out 
on  the  niarsli  to  claim  our  prize,  the  remainder  of  the 
herd  rnn  off  about  a  hundred  yards  and  halted.  A 
fine  barren  doe  almost  as  white  as  snow  took  Jim's 


158 


CAlilBOU   .SlIOOTINC;    IN    NEWFOUNDLAND. 


ri 


x 


O 

X! 

I— ( 


'  I 


"KEP"    KILLS   TIIL   WliONC;    DEER. 


151) 


eye,  and  lie  r()i)oate(l  liis  old  story  al)oiit  winter's 
meat  and  buckskin  for  moccasins  as  lie  i;lanced  from 
the  doe  to  me.  '  Him  a  fat  un,'  said  he.  Only  three 
inches  of  the  deer's  shoulder  was  visible  as  she  stood 
by  the  side  of  a  tree.  '  -lim,  I  might  miss.'  '  No  ;  un 
gun  shoot  Avliere  un  held.  Vou  an  me  find  more  big 
stag  by-un-l)y.'  testing  on  one  knee,  1  held  just  near 
the  l)ark  of  the  tree,  and  at  the  report  of  the  gun  the 
doe  fell  dead.  I  sat  down  on  a  rock  watching  Jim 
dress  the  deer,  when  all  at  once  I  heard  a  great  nicket 
in  my  rear.  I  s[)i-ang  to  my  feet  to  find  a  hen  I  of 
deer  not  twenty  yards  off  on  a  hdl  run  ;  in  another 
instant  thev  would  have  been  over  us.  On  seeing  us 
thev  turned  off,  and  there  being  no  liorns  among 
them,  they  were  allowed  to  go  unmolested.  I  then 
looked  at  my  watch  and  saw  that  in  forty-tive  min- 
utes 1  had  killed  four  deer  and  seen  hftv-one." 

Kep  and  l.e  liuffc'  started  for  the  Lower  Lookout, 
and  here  the  author  will  allow  Kep  to  tell  hoAV  he 
killed  the  wrong  deer  and  missed  adding  a  tine  pair 
of  antlers  to  his  list  of  trophies : 

''About  1 1  A.  M.  we  si)ied  fifteen  deer  in  one  (h'ove 
about  half  a  mile  distant,  fc'^^hng  and  moving  slowly 
around  the  point  of  a  thickly  wooded  island.  Le 
P>ufle,  who  was  perched  high  U[)  on  tlu^  tree,  watched 
them  very  intently  thi-ough  the  glass  for  quite  a  while. 


"iT^^Tf 


lOU 


CAiaBOU   >SH0UT1NCJ    IN    NKWFOlNDLANJ), 


trying  U)  make  out  tlui  direction  they  were  aiiniiig  for 
as  tlioy  circ'k'd  over  the  niarsli.  'There's  one  awful 
big  one,  witli  (huidy  liorns,'  said  Le  lUitie,  as  he  came 
down  tlie  tree  hke  a  streak  of  greased  hghtning  and 
beekoned  nie  to  follow  him  as  he  ran  down  in  the  di- 
reetion  of  the  caribou,  keeping  well  under  cover  and 
as  near  the  edge  of  the  marsh  as  possible  till  we  got 
about  halfwav  to  them.  We  then  had  to  cut  across 
a  small  island  in  order  to  keep  under  cover  and  to 
windward  of  them.  1  was  panting  for  breath  by  the 
time  we  got  through  the  terrible  thicket ;  and  there 
in  full  sight,  only  about  a  hundred  yards  distant, 
stood  the  whole  Hock  in  a  bunch.  '  Keep  close  to 
the  ground  and  try  to  get  a  shot  at  that  big  fellow 
in  the  middle  if  you  can,'  whispered  Le  ]>uife.  J 
wanted  him  badly,  but  he  kept  well  in  the  centre  of 
the  herd,  as  they  moved  uneasily  around  as  if  they 
scented  danger,  and  grouped  in  such  a  way  that  it 
was  hard  to  get  a  shot  at  him.  Several  times  I  was 
on  the  })oint  of  pulling  the  trigger  as  he  presented  liis 
head  and  neck  above  the  others.  'What  do  you 
think?'  said  I  to  Le  Ihiffe.  'Well,  I  would  wait  a  bit: 
don't  shoot  till  you  get  a  good  chance  at  his  shoulders.' 
I  was  watching  intently  for  that  chance  as  the  herd 
kept  moving  about  and  gradually  getting  a  little  fur- 
ther away  from  us,  and  1  was  getting  extremely  anx- 


:;  \ 


"KEP"    KILLS   THE    WKONCi    DEHU. 


101 


ious,  feuriiig  that  the  moiuirch  of  tliu  party  might  get 
iiway  after  all.  Finally  1  caught  a  gliini)so  of  his 
inoiistrourt  head  as  he  moved  a  little  to  one  sid(\  and 
the  next  instant  1  glanced  tlu'ongli  the  sights  and  fired 
at  what  I  supposed  Avas  his  big  white  shoulder.  At 
the  crack  of  tlie  rifle  Le  Jkiffe  Jumped  to  his  feet  and 
shouted,  '  You  missed  him — there  lu^  goes — try  him 
again  on  the  run!'  T  saw  my  mistake,  and  fired  at 
him  as  he  was  pulling  out  with  the  rest  of  the  herd, 
as  they  helterskeltered  over  the  wet  marsh  at  a  tre- 
mendous  gait,  making  tlie  water  fly  as  high  as 
a  two-story  house  in  their  mad  flight;  hut  I  only 
succeeded  in  wounding  liim  slightly.  We  tlien 
took  an  inventory  of  what  I  had  done  with  my 
first  shot,  and  found  that  1  had  hit  two  caribou 
— (3ne  a  large  stag,  but  with  comparatively  small 
horns,  and  killed  the  otlier  a  doe.  'I  am  sorry  the 
big  one  got  away,'  said  the  guide.  1  was  so  mortified 
at  my  loss  and  mistake  that  I  don't  think  1  spoke  six 
words  on  our  Avay  back  to  the  lookout.  It  was  then 
about  the  middle  of  the  day  and  Le  Buffe  'biled  the 
kittle.'  After  lunch  lie  climbed  the  tree  again,  and  a 
short  time  afterward  w"  both  noticed  a  little  smoke 
curling  through  the  trees  at  the  head  of  a  small  island 
in  the  marsh,  about  three-cjuarters  of  a  mile  distant. 
JiC  Buffe  discovered,  with  the  aid  of  the  glass,  that  it 


,ii 


H 

i' 


U\2 


CARIBor   SHOOTING   IN    NEWFOl'NDLAND. 


\VM.    !'\UL. 


was  our  old  friend  Win.  raid,  tlic  ^ricniac  Indian, 
with  two  scjuaws  and  two  lialf'-gnnvn  boys,  wlio  were 
on  tho  trail  1  ading  to  tluMr  canii)  near  1)V.  and  liad 
stopped  to  take  a  rest  and  '])ile  the  kittle.'  While 
Le  l>ut1e  was  watching  tlie  Indijuis'  actions  i  noticed 
two  fine  carilK)u  on  th(^  marsh,  moving  directly  to- 
wards old  Paul  and  his  pai'ty.  '  Xow,'  said  LelJuffe, 
'look  sharp  and  we  may  see  some  fun.'     Nearer  and 


WILLIAM    I'Al'L,  THE    MICMAC    AM)    FAMILY. 


1  (;:; 


iioarer  wc'iit  the  two  doer  toward  the  curlin*;'  smoke, 
seeming  not  to  notices  till  within  fifty  [)aces  of  it,  Avlien 
they  both  stopi)ed  with  heads  ereet,  and  stood  as 
if  })araly/e(l  at  what  they  saw.  The  next  instant 
1  saw  a  httle  jmff  of  smoke  from  old  Paid's  six-foot 
nnizzle-loading  gun,  and  a  eonvulsive  leap  into 
tlie  air  bv  one  of  tlie  deer  followed  bv  a  loud  re- 
port  like   blasting   rocks.      'There,    he    has    wounded 


WM.    PAUL' .S   SISTER. 


104 


CARIBOU  SHOOTING    IN   NEWFOUNDLAND. 


one  of  them  and  scared  the  other  ahuost  to  death.' 
said  I.e  ]>uffe.  'Yes,'  lie  continued,  'it  is  try- 
ing liard  to  get  to  its  feet  again,  hut  can't.'  In  the 
meantime  l*aul  loaded  his  old  gun  and  tired  another 
slug  into  the  Avounded  animal ;  then  the  whole  party 
hroke  cover,  and  with  an  Indian  yell  of  triumph  ran 
out  to  the  fallen  deer,  which  was  still  trying  hard  to 
rise  as  the  Indians  surrounded  it.  '  Thud  !  Thud  ! 
Poonk !  Poonk ! '  came  a  peculiar  sound  over  the 
marsh,  while  they  kept  up  their  infernal  yelling. 
'  What  are  they  doing  now  ?  '  1  asked  Le  Putle  (  who 
could  see  every  move  they  made,  owing  to  his  eleva- 
ted position  and  having  the  tield  glass.)  '  Oh,  the 
dirty  old  heathen  is  mauling  it  to  death  Avith  the  butt 
of  his  old  musket,'  he  replied,  as  he  slid  down  the 
tree  ;  '  come  let  us  go  down  and  see  what  they  are 
doing.'  By  the  time  we  got  there  they  had  the  hide 
almost  otf,  and  so  intent  Avere  the\^  on  their  work  that 
they  scarcely  noticed  our  presence,  as  each  one  pulled 
and  tugged  at  it  Avh ere ver  they  could  get  a  hold,  chat- 
tering all  the  Avhile  like  a  flock  of  crows.  We  re- 
mained to  see  them  dress  the  deer  and  cook  the 
dainty  hits  of  ottal,  consisting  of  tlie  '  boiubgut '  or 
rectum  and  the  marrow  bones — the  latter  having 
been  roasting  over  the  hot  coals  since  they  Avere  cut 
oH*  and  the  boys  Avere  soon  quarreling  as  they  cracked 


WILLIAM   PAl'L,  Tin:   MICMAC   AND   FAMILY. 


1  ( >5 


. 


thoiii  between  stones,  each  fcarin.^  tliat  one  nii.i;lit  .i;c't 
a  morsel   move  than   tlie  other.     Old   Paul    and  the 
squaws  were  gor^ini;-   themselves   from    the  eontents 
of  the  kettl(\  which  contained  scrai)s  of  offal  scarcely 
warmed   through.     We    declined  a    very  cordial   in- 
vitation to  take  a  snack  with  them,  on  general  prin- 
ciples, and  eom})romised    the    matter   l)y    furnishing 
them   with    sufhcient  '  hacky '  to  fill  tlieir  pipes  all 
round.     On  the  way  up  the  marsh   1   had  an  opi)or- 
tunity  of  killing  a  fme  two-year-old  stag,   hut  as  my 
ideas  of  antlers  had  enlai'giMl  very  materially,  and  his 
were  small,  I  allowed   him  to  go  on  his  way  un<lis- 
turbed.     We  i)roceeded  to  the  lookout,  where  we  had 
been  but  a  few  minutes  when  the  "  Kid"  and  Indian 
Jim  came  round  the  point  from  the  South  Hills.     The 
latter  had  on  his  l)road  shoulders  two  beautiful  heads. 
^\ha!Tseeyou  have  had  good  luck/ said   1.     'Oh, 
yes,'  replied  the  Kid,  with  a  beaming  countenance,  '  I 
never  had  so  much  fun  in  all  my  life!     We  saw  fifty- 
one  caribou,  and  I  killed  four  of  them— two  big  stags 
and  two  fat  does.     '  We  are  the  champions  now,  and 
and  don't  you  forget  it,  'said  Indian  Jim  with  a  satis- 
fied look  as  he  filled  his  pipe.     After  congratulations 
all  around,  we  pulled  out  for  the  cabin." 

We  had  a  big  day,  as  tlie  party  saw  eighty-four  deer 
in  all ;  and  as  the  Kid  was  the  hero,  we  Avere  obliged 


! 


matim 


IGG 


CARIBOU   SHO()TI\(i    IX    NKWFOl'NDI.AND. 


to  give  liim  i)k'iity  of  ell)ow  room  jit  tlie  suj)pL'r  t5i])l(j, 
to  nuikr  up  the  bunk  witliout  his  ussistiuice,  and  to 
yic3ld  hiiu  several  inclies  more  space  in  it  for  the  night. 
And  as  Inihan  Jim's  spirits  were  at  liigh  ti(h',  he  en- 
tertained us  far  into  the  night  witli  accounts  of  his 
hfe  and  adventuns  with  tlie  Micmacs — how  they 
hved,  cooked,  sle])t,  luuited,  tra])ped,  danced,  married, 
fouglit,  worshipped,  Ijuried  the  dead,  etc.,  and  liow  1h^ 
himself  had  hunted  the  great  deer,  beaver,  seals,  otter, 
owls,  grouse,  foxes,  l^ears  and  wolves — the  flesh  of  all 
of  which  he  declared  to  be  good  to  eat  ''  if  a  man  was 
hungry." 

Wednesday,  Ocfohcr  J4f]i.  Thermometer  oO;  clear. 
As  Indian  Jim  desired  to  complete  the  "scaffling"  of 
the  two  fat  does  killed  by  the  Kid  yesterday,  the 
Avriter  went  with  him.  Saw  seven  and  could  have 
killed  three,  but  as  they  were  does  and  stags  with  com- 
paratively small  antlers,  the  opportunities  were  al- 
lowed to  pass  with  the  deer,  lleturned  to  camp  by 
late  dinner  thne ;  and  as  Martin  Williams  had  com- 
pleted skinning  out  the  Kid's  two  stag  heads,  and  the 
curing  of  the  skins  fell  to  the  writer's  lot,  they  were 
attended  to  during  the  afternoon. 

Here  it  might  be  well  to  state  that  the  skinning 
out  of  the  head  of  one  of  these  great  deer  is  quite  a 
task,  and  great  care  and  judgment  must  be  exercised, 


i 


1 


I  , 


i 


CIWINC    THK   SPKt'IMKNS.  1()7 

or  wlu'ii  tlic  spt'cinu'ii  comes  to  be  movinted  it  will  be 
iin}M)ssible  for  tbe  tiixiderniist  to  do  Justice  to  the  sub- 
ject. .Martin  Williams,  with  a  little  instruction  as  to 
tbe  nose  and  ears,  bc^came  very  expert,  and  would  be 
worth  more  than  his  waj^es  for  that  purpose  alone. 
¥A(jn  after  the  head  skin  is  off  it  is  no  small  Job  to 
dean  the  skull  jn'operly.  The  brain  must  be  thor- 
oughly removed,  as  well  as  every  particle  of  H<'sh,  and 
the  cavitv  of  the  nostrils  nuist  be  well  swal)bed  out. 
After  all  this  has  been  attended  to  tlu;  salt,  alum  and 
arsenic  mixture  used  in  curing  the  skins  should  be 
4ip})lied  and  the  specimen  })laced  in  as  dry  a  place  as 
the  acconnnodations  aftbrd,  with  a  free  circulation  of 
air.  In  the  curing  of  the  head  skins  the  writer  uses 
the  following  mixture,  which  gives  the  very  best  re- 
sults in  any  cimate : 

Fine  salt <>  ounces. 

Pulverized  alum 2  ounces. 

Arsenic 1  ounce. 

Mix  well. 

As  soon  as  the  skin  has  been  removed  from  the 
animal,  or  before  it  has  become  dry,  rub  the  powder 
into  the  flesh  side  well,  being  very  careful  to  see  that 
it  has  been  well  applied  to  the  very  edges  of  the  skin, 
as  well  as  the  lips,  eyelids  and  the  everted  ears.  After 
every  portion  has  been  gone  over  and  well  rubbed  in, 


BSS;SsiB^;irr5ft.iia;wa;a-v-.:a3ssrjiSi; 


iCxS 


CAiai50U   SMOOTINC    IN    NKWI'orNDLAXD. 


Cold  the  skill  lo.iictJK'r  in  sucli  a  injumcr  tliat  tlic  llcsli 
sides  shall  conic  in  contac^t,  tlicii  roll  tiiilitlv  louctlicr 
and  sccnrc  the  bundle  with  twine.  The  skin  is  then 
ready  to  l)c  |)ack(^d  away,  one  roll  a.^ainst  another,  and 
Itctteronthe  ground,  coverini:,'  the  whole  well  with 
green  houghs.  In  rorty-eight  hours  ojh'Ii  them  ii|). 
Imng  thorn  in  the  shade,  hut  where  tluiv  get  ii  tVei^ 
circulation  of  air,  and  in  lair  dry  weatlier  tlie  skins 
will  be  dry  and  eaii  safely  be  packed  in  bales,  and 
when  tlu^  taxidermist  or  tamun-  relaxes  them  tiie  liair 
will  be  found  tight  and  the  i)elt  in  Hrst-elass  condi- 
tion. ( )ut  of  the  twent\M)ne  head  skins  l)rought  out 
by  our  party,  there  was  not  a  s(|uare  inch  of  hair 
slipped. 

Ke}),  the  Ivid  and  I^e  Butfc'  spent  [)art  of  the  day 
at  the  Lower  Lookout,  sighting  seven  deer,  but  as  they 
were  not  tlie  kind  they  were  looking  for,  they  W(n-e 
not  disturbed. 

Thursday,  October  ^rdJi.  Thernionu^ter  35;  clear 
and  windy.  The  writer  liaving  sj)rained  his  ankle 
yesterday,  did  not  get  farther  than  the  blind  across 
the  marsh.  Saw  four  deer  killing  a  fine  stag  with 
fair  antlers  under  the  following  circumstances  :  The 
deer  were  feeding  along  slowly  with  tlie  wind,  just 
right,  one  path  of  the  trail  passing  within  twenty  feet 
of  the  blind.     The  deer  were  slow  in  coming  up,  which 


i 


KILMNd    AT  TWKNTV    riUlT. 


i(;i) 


giivo  ample  opportiinltv  to  cxaininc  the  sta.i;'s  aiitlci's 
Avitli  the  ,i;iass,  and  the  same  time  {o  arrive  at  tlie  enii- 
clusioii  that  he  was  not  wante*!.  As  lie  ap[)roa(*he(l 
still  nearer,  and  when  witiiin  ahont  lit'ty  vards  of  tlu; 
blind,  it  was  notiee(l  that  he  took  the  trail  which 
passed  within  twenty  feet  of  it.  The  tem|)tation 
was  too  ureat,  and  he  lost  his  life  hv  exeitinu'  a 
desire  in  the  heart  of  the  hnnti'r  to  kill  a  wild  eari- 
l)on  at  twenty  foot,  and  tind  ont  whetlu'r  at  sncli 
short  ran^e  the  l)all  wcndd  pass  thron.i;h  the  animal. 
AVhen  directly  op})osite  the  Idind  the  trii;ger  was 
pressed.  The  l)all,  40-05  Winchester,  passed  in  1)0- 
tween  two  ribs  Jnst  hack  of  the  point  of  the  fore- 
shonlder  on  the  left  side,  [)assing  throni;hand  striking' 
the  centre  of  the  rih  on  the  ot)posite  side,  which 
it   failed   to   break.      See    llhistration,  Fig.  3.      Kig. 


■  -  -.- 


tii,j.i|.i]pii|iij|!ii|pj 


mmmm 


»!«»i<i#ite. 


Fig.  1. 


^iWW"" 


Fig.  2. 
BULLETS. 


Fig.  :5. 


12 


f 


170 


C'Aianol    .SIl<K>TIN(i    IN    NKWl'orNDLAM). 


1  passed  tlir(»ii,i;li  Kotli  shoulder  Madcs  of  a  lari^v 
stall-  at  a  distaiuu'  of  three  hiiiHlred  naeos,  and  was 
I'ouud  lod-vd  a-ainst  the  skin.  Ki.i;-.  2  passed  thnm-h 
hetweeii  two  rihs,  struck  an  opi)osite  rib  hrealdug  it 
at  a  distance  of  lol)  [)accs. 

Kep  and  Le  liulU'  were  north  of  tlie  camp  part  of 
the  (lav  and  killed  a  barren  doe  with  line  head.  'IMie 
Kid  and  .linnnv  were  south,  and  killed  a  stag  and 
Ijarren  doe. 

Fri(J<ii/,  (h'iitlH'r  J(>f',i.  Tliennonietertr);  cloudy  in 
the  morning,  but  cleared  u^)  soon,  and  lu'came  a 
beautiful  bright  day.  We  liad  now  been  in  the  hunt 
ten  (lavs,  and  had  secured  some  tine  heads,  but  not  all 
WO  desh-ed.  ]'>y  this  time  Kep  was  getting  in  tine 
shape  for  lumting,  and  seemed  more  hke  the  same 
^' Black  Fox"  of  vears  ago  when  we  made  many  a 
tramp  together,  when  game  was  plenty  in  the  western 
counties  of  Pennsylvania. 

The  programme  for  the  day's  hunt  was  outlined  the 
day  before.  Kep  and  Le  JUille  were  to  get  an  early 
start  and  make  a  roconnoitoring  tour  to  '' Grand- 
father's Lookout,"  and  if  possible  push  farther  into 
the  White  Hills,  as  we  were  all  extremely  anxious  to 
secure  fine  kirge  stag  heads,  as  well  as  three  antlered 
cows.  The  Kid  and  Avriter  were  to  remain  at  the 
main  camp  and  keep  w^atcli  over  the  passers-by.     Our 


p 


KKPS    Ki:i)    r-KTTKi:    DAY. 


171 


('11(1  nf  tho  line  did  not  pan  out  well,  as  \U)\  a  deer  was 
si;j;lit('(l ;  l)ut  K('[)  and  Lc  lUillt'  had 


A  iii:i)  m:tti:k  nw. 

AikI  here  is  the  way  Ke|  ♦ells  it:  "  We  took  a  dif- 
I'ereiit  route  to  reach  the  liills.  and  saw  on  our  way  u|» 
((uite  a  nuniher  of  earihou,  as  we  eirele(l  round 
throu.iih  the  '  liiii;-  Marsh,'  thick  wooded  islands  and 
small  lakes,  and  could  have  killed  a  inmiher  oi" 
them;  hut  noth in il;' suited  us.  Ahout  noon  westoi)|)ed 
to  'hile  the  kittle,'  and  enjoy  our  tea,  sea-hiscuit  and 
cohl  venison  as  onlv  liuimrv  hunters  in  a  hraein,i;'  at- 
mosph'  re  and  after  a  loni;"  tramp  can.  As  we  were 
onjoyini;'  our  snac^k,  Le  IJulle  ever  on  the  alert,  saw  a 
very  larii'e  stag  alone  about  three-(|uarters  of  a  mile 
distant,  feedini;'  hv  the  side  of  a  small  lake.  As  we 
()l)served  him  throui;h  tlu^  .glass,  Ave  discovered  that 
he  had  a  line  head,  Just  such  as  we  were  looking  for; 
hut  the  great  troul)le  was  to  get  within  gun-shot,  as 
there  was  little  available  cover,  and  the  wird  was 
against  us.  \\Y'  succeeded,  however,  in  getting  within 
250  yards  of  him  wicliOLic  nuich  trouble,  and  then 
crawled  through  the  wet  marsh  grass  al)out  seventy- 
five  yards  further.  Here  even  the  grass  was  absent, 
and  I  was  obliged  to  try  a  long  shot.  After  recover- 
ing my  wind  a  little  after  the  sneak    and    crawl,  I 


wsm 


1 


r2 


CARIBOU  SHO()TIN(J    IX    NEWFOUNDLAND. 


took  vc'i'V  carcrul  aii»i,  and  as  tlio  rillu  cmcktMl  tln^ 
lArcat  aniDial  made  a  lunge?  forward  and  fell  dead.  ( )!' 
course  I  Icll  elated,  and  Le  liulVe  put  liis  l/ig  hand  in 
innu.s  congratulating  mo  on  the  fine  shot  and  the 
beautiful  tro[)hy. 

"  After  skinning  him,  Le  liufle  should(;red  the  head 
and  hide,  and  we  i)r()ceeded  on  our  way  toN^-ai'd  the 
heiulit  of  land  oi'  what    is   known    as   the    barrens. 
When  W(?  reached  'Hanah's   Lookout'  we  rested,  and 
left  tlui  head  until   our   return.      We  were  about  two 
and  a-half  miles  west  of  (nn*  cabin,  l)ut  there  was  still 
a  higher  point  about  tw(.  miles  (hstant  in  the  direction 
of  the  fan.ous  'Topsails,'  which  if  we  could  reach  it 
would  allbrd  us  a  magnificent  view  of  the  country, 
and  put  us  in  the  very  lieart  of  the    best   hunting 
grounds.     We  ])ushed  on  and  arrived  at  our  destina- 
tion, ''(irandfather's  Lookout,"  about  3  I*.  M.     It  was 
a  beautiful  sight  as  we  stood  on  this   high   ledge  of 
rocks  o\\-    )oking  the  high  tableland  in  the  heart  of 
the  rolling  moss  covered  'White  Jiills.'     A  short  dis- 
tance westward  were  the  three  Topsail  i)eaks,  looming 
u|)  like  gnnit  castUfs  or  icelujrgs  in  the  c^ear  atn)os- 
pheru.     North  and  south,  the  inii(iue  gray  hills  as  far 
m  tlui  oye  could  s(ie,  ai 
look  ilown  on 


'1' 
id  to  the  eastward,   W(;  could 


th(f   many  wooded    islands  and  small 
lakuH  dotted  over  the  great  marshes,  J>ari»eys  lirook, 


BVTTLE   OI'    -rJIE  STAtlS. 


-j  r-<> 


u 


W(^st  J*oiid,  and  the  'tickles'  Iciuling  into  the  luiy  ut 
rillcv's  Island. 

"Dut    near    us   to   the   eastward,    within    a    mile, 
was  to  nie  a  much  more?  inten.'stini;-  ])ietuiv.     ( )n  the 
plain  heiow   us  were  more  than   a   huiuh'ed  earihou, 
movini»-  ahout  amon<,^  the  little  moss-eovered  knolls, 
ro(;ks  and  tufts  of  seraj^jAy  evergreens  of  lir  and  Juniper. 
As  I  hrought  my  lield-glass  to  hear  upon  the  s(!ene,  1 
helield  a  picture  which    I   shall  never  forget.     Ahout 
ludfa  mile  down  the  sIo^k',  in   a  small  oi)en   marsh, 
were  at  least  fifty  earihou  gathered   in   a  crowd,   and 
riuiit  in  the  centre  was  a  ])attlo  royal  hetween  several 
great  stags  for  supremacy  and  possession  of  the  favored 
does.     The  hattle    seemed   to    he    waged    i)i-uicipally 
against  one  great  kingly-looking  fellow  with  magnifi- 
cent antlers.     The  does  with  thei'*  fawns  and  the  year- 
lings   (prickets)   and   younger   stags   had  ai)i)arently 
formed  a  ring  or  circle  around  the  half-dozen  or  more 
tierce  comhatants  in  their  great  struggle  for  the  sur- 
vival of  the  fittest — the  does  venturing  in  near  them 
now  and  then  seemingly  to  encourage  the  fighters  hy 
their  |)resence.     The  clashing  of  their  horns  could  he 
easily  heard  as  they  plunged  and  reared  at  cl  h  other 
in  deadly  strife.     The  weaker  gradually  succumhed 
oiKi  hy  one  and  w  •    eventually  driven  off,  leaving 
the  '  king'  master  of  thc^  situation.     Ihit  his  glory  was 


i, 


174 


CAKIBOr   SHOOTING   IN   NEWFOrNDLAND. 


I: 


destined  to  be  short  lived;   little  did   he  know   that 
there  was  dan.i^er  near,  and  that  his  kingly  head  should 
soon  fall,  as  a  s[)eeirnen  and  tro})hy  of  the  noblest  of 
his  kind.      It  was  now  (juite  late  in  the  afternoon,  and 
as  we  were  about  five  miles  from  eamj)  as  the  raven 
flies,  and  several  more  bv  the  roundabout  wav  we  were 
obliged  to  take  to  reach  our  cabin,  Ia'  lUdlc'  thou,Liht  it 
was  too  late  to  begin  shooting;  the  weather  was  mild, 
and  the  deer  would  not  travel;  better  go  to  camp  aud 
return  in  the  morning  with  the  whole  outfit,  put  up 
a  temporary  camp,  and  remain   until   we  had  tilled 
out  our  strnig  of  heads  all(jwed  by  law.     lUit   what 
Sportsman  could  turn  his  back  on  suchai)icture  with- 
out making  an  attempt  to  secure  the  head  of  the  king? 
I  suL^2;ested  that  we  should  trv  for  it,  even  at  the  risk 
of  cami)ing  out.     This  was  easier  said  than  done,  as 
there  were  several  small  groups  of  deer  between   us 
and  the  herd  in  which  he  was  presiding,   and  many 
sliarp  eyes  and  noses  to  be  feared.      Le  ViuiVv  was  fear- 
ful that  it  they  should  detect  us  either  by  sight  or 
scent  we  might  stampede  the  whole  party  and  lose  all, 
though  h(^  was  willing  to  make  the  effort. 

"We  started  out  very  cautiously,  creeping  through 
the  low  cover  and  keeping  as  well  to  windward  of 
them  as  })ossible,  gradually  getting  nearer  the  point  (jf 
attack.     When  within  about  400  yards  we  thought 


ngas 


r.ATTLi:   OF   THK   STA(;S. 


175 


l¥ 


k?:pler  and  the  king. 


all  was  lost,  as  a  l>ig  stag  close  by,  which  had  hccii 
whipiHxl,  discovered  us  and  created  (|iiite  a  disturh- 
aiice  hy  his  loud  grunts  as  he  kept  trotting  hack- 
wards  and  forwards  from  group  to  group,  trying  to 
give  the  alarm ;    hut  as  there  was  another  tight  on  be- 


i 


ITC) 


CAi;iIU)r    ,SII()(>TIN(i    IN    NKWFOrNDI.ANI). 


low  liiin,  the  main   herd's   attention  was  attracted    [a 
tliat,  and  no  stani|)e<le  oeenrred  jnst  then,      l^'i-onithis 
point  forward  the  cover  was  so  h.uiit   tliat   we  luid  to 
worm  alon.ii"  very  close  to  tlie  ^ronnd  |)art  of  tlie  way. 
throniih  water  and  mnck.  regardless  of  wet  knees  and 
elbows;  hnt  tinally  succeeded  in  gettin.u'  within   alxnit 
225  paces  of  the  'kin.i;:"  hut  here  the  cover  ended  and 
our  position  on  slopin^i;'  .uround  ex[)osedus  to  the  <leer, 
and  I  was  ohli.u'ed  to  try  my  hand  apiin  at  lonii'  range. 
I  niisod  the  sights  for  the  estimated  distance  as   well 
as  1  could,  and  as  i  was  lying  down,  took  very  careful 
aim    from    an    elhow    rest,    military    style.       1    tired, 
and    as  the    ritle   cracked    1    saw   that   the    ball    had 
struck  him  too  far  back:  it  seemed  to  make  him  per- 
fectly ferocious,  as  he  cripi)le(l  around  in  the  herd  with 
a  broken  thigh,  still  holding  the  fort  against  all  comers. 
He  soon  turned  a   ])roadside,  and    I   tired  again  with 
better  rc^sults;  he  made  a   few   wicked   lunges  in   the 
direction  of  one  of  his  late  rivals,  and   fell  dead.      We 
then  broke  cover  and  ran  down   to  where  the  fallen 
hero  lav;    and  strange  to  sav.  the  herd  seemed   to  be 
panic-stricken  at  the  downfall  of  their  leader—.some 
of  them  trotting  around  close  l)y,  and  others  standing 
as  if  paralyzed  within  easy  shot.     Just  then  1  noticed 
a  large  stag  standing  about  eighty  yards  off' with  a 
magnific(Mit   head   of  antk'rs.      l  shot   him   d(»wn  in 


9| 

ii 


rHK     'KING 


t  t 


ii 


THK    "  KIN(;." 


ITS 


CAK'IBOU   SHOOTING   IN    NEWFOL'NDLAND. 


liis  tracks.  At  tliis  sta^iic  ol'  the  i;;mu'  all  scoined  to 
1k^  ill  contiisioii.  as  tlic  divr  did  not  seem  to  know 
what  the  shootin.i;-  meant.  As  Le  Bulie  did  not  carry 
a  ij;un,  to  keep  out  of  my  way  and  out  of  siiilit  of  the 
uame  lie  liad  taken  shelter  l)eliind  a  large  rock  ahout 
tlie  size  of  an  old  fashioned  Pennsylvania  hake-oven 
(such  as  our  ancestors  used),  ahout  200  yards  from 
Avhere  1  was  doing  the  shooting.  Here  he  almost 
came  to  grief,  as  he  was  attax^ked  hy  a  tiei'ce  carihou 
Avitli  most  vicious  horns.  His  cry  for  hell)  attracted 
mv  attention  iust  in  time  to  save  him,  as  the  mad- 
deiied  heast  was  grunting  and  charging  at  him  as  he 
was  running  round  and  round  the  rock.  I  ran  down 
to  within  ahout  twenty  yards  of  the  circus,  when  the 
enraged  animal  caught  sight  of  me  and  immediately 
squared  oft'  to  give  uk'  hattle  on  open  ground,  and 
looked  as  if  he  asked  no  favor  under  the  circum- 
stances. r>ut  I  had  him  well  cov(3i'ed  with  the  rifle, 
and  called  out  to  TiC  lUiffe  to  lie  flat  hehind  the  rock 
as  f  was  going  to  shoot.  Just  as  the  great  savage  deer 
lowered  his  head  to  make  a  rush  at  me,  I  fired  a  ball 
into  his  breast,  and  he  fell  dead  within  six  feet  of  Le 
Butte — who  is  a  brave  man  and  used  to  danger,  but 
lit  this  moment  was  as  white  as  a  sheet  as  he  again 
took  me  bv  the  hand. 

"This  over,  and  before  we  had  time  to  consider  what 


Tin:    -'KINCJ." 


179 


next,  w'v  noticed  a  tioek  of  about  a  dozen  deer  a  sliort 
distance   oft*    coming   directly   towards  us.     Half  of 
them  were  stags,  with  good  horns  and  Ix'autiful  white 
necks.     We  lay  down  l)ehind  the  dead  tighter,  and  in 
a  few  seconds  the  leader  was  within  thirty  feet  of  us; 
and  as  they  j)araded  l)y  I  picked  out  the  or^e  with  the 
finest  horns  and  let  him  down.     'Hie   rest  ran  oil'  a 
short   distance,    circled  around,  and  sto[)ped   within 
easy  gunshot.     This   last   shot  completed    my  eight 
stalls  and  three  female  caribou,  allowed  by   law;  and 
the  only  regret  I  had  was  that  the  Doctor  and  the  Kid 
A\'ere  not  with  us.     It  was  now  4  1\  ^l.  and  we  hur- 
riedly disemboweled   the  deer  and  struck  for  cam[), 
anxious  to  cover  as  nnich  of  the  distance  as  [)0ssible 
before  darkness  covered  that  part  of  the  earth's  sur- 
face.    I/nfortunately    we   had  the  worst  part  of  the 
trail  to  go  over  last,  and  niglit  caught  us  too  soon. 
Several  times  Ave  lost  our  course  ;  and  as  the  trail  was 
over  the  marsh,  which  is  very  treacherous,  we  had  a 
sorry  time  of  it.     It  was  impossible  to  tell  the  differ- 
ence between  a  puddle  of  water  and  a  stone,  Ijut  at 
last  Ave  did  reach  camp,  wet,  hungry  and   foot-sore, 
but  not  tired — on  !  no,  not  after  such  a  day's  sport — 
but  in  fine  shape  to  get  outside  of  a  big  supper  which 
Pap  Goodyear  had  waiting  for  us.     After  supper  w^e 
recounted  the  incidents  of  the  day.     I  wrote  up  my 


in 


"Vi 


I  Hi 


1<S(.) 


CAIiinoU   SHOOTING    I\   NEWFOUNDLAND. 


notes,  ^v^i  ])ljiim('(l  tlic  ih'xI  day's  liiiiit,  and  i'('tir('<l  to 
pleasant  dreams." 

It  is  liardlv  necessarv  to  suv  tliat  Ken,  like  the  Kid 
after  liis  red-letter  diiy,  re(|uired  extra  cover,  l)nnk- 
rooni  and  waiting"  on.  Over  a  hnndred  deer  seen 
to-day. 

JSiifiii'dai/,  (h'tober  J7tli.  Tlici'nionieter  40;  some  fog 
on  marsh.  As  prearranged  last  night,  Le  Buffe,  In- 
dian Jim,  Ke}),  the  Kid  and  the  writer  made  an  early 
start  for  the  scene  of  yesterday's  hunt,  i)repare(l  with 
tent,  jn'ovisions  and  cooking  utensils,  to  remain  o\'er 
night  or  longer  if  need  be.  The  Kid  was  entitled  to 
one  stag  more,  and  the  writer  to  four.  J^)y  10:30  A.  M. 
we  were  at  "Grandfather's  Lookout,"  selected  a  camp- 
ing place,  and  while  In(Uan  Jim  put  U})  the  tent  we 
*'  biled  the  kittle,"  roasted  some  venison  on  the  ends 
of  sticks  and  got  ourselves  in  shape  for  the  missing 
specimens.  Before  we  were  through,  however,  with 
our  impromptu  meal,  Le  Butfe  with  two  smoking 
ribs  in  his  fist  had  gone  a  few  yards  above  us  where  a 
better  view  could  be  had,  and  soon  sung  out,  ''Deer 
on  the  ma'sh,"  when  we  all  advanced  to  where  he 
was,  and  sure  enough  there  on  a  hillside,  all  of  a  mile 
distant,  was  a  herd  of  some  thirty-five  or  forty,  string- 
ing along  unconscious  of  danger.  We  were  on  the  top 
of  the  height  of  land  on  one  side  of  a  depression  or 


t 


I 


: 


Tin:   DOCTOIJ    MAKES   A    L()N'(i    SHOT. 


isi 


seoop-out,  wliilc  tlu'V  were  on  tlic  opposite  side:  aiul 
as  there;  was  scared v  any  cover  on  eitlier,  it  re(|uired 
considerable  tin^inec^ring"  to  get  even  within  bmg 
range.  From  wliere  we  were  it  was  inipossiljle  to  de- 
termine how  many  stags  were  anujng  them,  or  the 
size  and  cliaracter  of  tlieir  antlers.  There  was  only 
on(;  point  near  the  edge  of  the  nKU'sh  whei't;  two  or 
three  small  evergreens  were  stan(hng,  whicli  it'  one 
could  reach  it  might  affra-d  a  chance  for  a  shot  ii'  the 
deer  kept  moving  on  parallel  with  the  o[)positc  crest 
of  the  ridge,  provided  we  were  not  scented  or  seen. 

After  looking  tht;  situation  over  carefully,  Le  I)utfe 
and  the  \vriter  began  the  approach  Ijy  taking  advan- 
tage of  everytliing  in  the  sha})0  of  cover  which  it  was 
possible  to  use;  and  after  a  tedious  and  circuitous 
route  we  at  last  reached  the  evergreen  trees.  As  the 
deer  were  feeding  along  very  slowly,  and  were  un- 
conscious of  our  presence,  we  liad  am})le  time  to  ex- 
amine them  carefully  through  the  glass  before  they 
came  to  a  point  opposite  us.  We  were  not  long  in 
selecting  from  among  some  half  dozen  stags  the  one 
whicli  appeared  to  have  the  best  pair  of  antlers,  and 
was  the  nearest  to  us.  There  was  a  large  bowlder 
which  looked  as  if  it  had  been  at  some  time  dropped 
by  an  iceberg  about  opposite  wliere  we  were,  and  we 
calculated  the  distance  to  be  between  21 'j  and  300 


1 


Ml 


M 


1    i' 


BSET- 


MM 


1S2 


CAinuor  siiooriNc  in  nkwioindlam). 


yjirds.     Tlic  sta.u;  was  or  socmed  to  he  walkiiii'-  directly 
for    the   rock,  and    tcclini;-   conlidciit   that    lie   woidd 
walk   u))  to  within  a   I'cw  icct  of  it  and  sto[),  wc  de- 
cided to  trv  him  at  that   i)oint.     True  to  his  instinct, 
and  our  surmises  hiise(l  upon  pi'evious  o))servation,  he 
did   stop,   and   i;azed   curiously   and   intently   at    the 
rock.     1    hrou.^ht   the   crosshairs  to   hear  on  a  point 
just  hack  of  his  fore  shoulder,  pressed  the  ti-i.u'.uer,  and 
liad   the  satisfaction   of  seeini;-  him  scpiat.      \a)   lUille 
said,   "Vou  hit  him  all   ri.i^iit,   hut   low."     The  deer 
tiu'ned  to  the   ri.i;ht   and    walked    ahout   twenty-iive 
yards  away  from   us,  lay  down,  1)ut   innnediately  .u'ot 
lip  and  stood   Ijroadside.      ''(Jive  him  another,  or  he 
will  .i;et  away,"  said  the. i;uide;   "hold  a  little  higher 
on  him  this  time."     As  my  gun  was  still  resting  on 
the  limb  of  the  juniper,  1  soon  had  the  crosshairs  cov- 
ering a  spot  on  his  white  side  about  two  inches  below 
the  top  of  his  wither,  and  almost  sinudtaneonsly  with 
the  report  of  the  gun  the  great  deer  dropped  on  both 
knees  and  rolled  over,  dying  before  Ave  reached  him. 
C)n  our  Avay  to  where  he  lay  we  both  counted   our 
steps,  and  as  it  was  slightly  down  grade,  they  Avould 
average   fully   three   feet.     The   guide   counted    290 
steps  to  where  he  got  the  first  shot,  and  the  writer 
had  290;    and  we  both  counted  twenty-five  steps  to 
Avhere  he  got  his  last  ball.     This  was  good  shooting. 


THK  imk'Toj:  makes  a  L()N(;  shot 


1  so 


and  with  the  writer  would  havo  l)wn  an  im|)()ssil>ility 
without  tlu)  aid  of  a  rest  and  the  tolcsropc  si.uht. 

^rhus  far  all    was  very  satisfactory;    hut   when   we 
canio  to  cxaniinc  the  antlers  <A'  our  sta.u'  we  wciv  mor- 
tilic'd  to  lind   the  ri.^'ht  hrow  antlur  hrokcn  oil",  which 
rcndciHMl  the  sju'ciuR'n  useless.     We  quickly  removed 
his  hide  and  retraced  our  steps  to  GraniHather's  Lo(>k- 
out,  to  fnid  the  rest  of  our  party  j^one,  wo  knew  not 
wliere.     JUit   inasmuch   as   it   was  not   our   [Jarty  we 
were    lookin.i;'   for,   we  at   once   hrou,i;ht  the  .i;iass   to 
focus  on  the  landscape  helow  us,  and  soon  located  an- 
other herd  of  carihou.      We  were  sure    Ke[)  and   the 
Kid    were  on   the'    sloi)e   somewhere,   thou.i^h    farther 
west  of  us.     They  could,  as  we  afterwards  learned,  see 
us  as  well  as  the  deer,  and  knew  from  our  actions  we 
had  also  sighted  the  ([iiarry— in  fact,  they  saw  us  enter 
the   thick  growth   of  trees   which  covered  the   slope 
for  some  (hstaiice  helow  the  highest  point.     The  deer 
were  coming  up  the  slope  at  an  angle  and  in  open 
ground,  in  the  direction  of  where   Kep  and  the   Kid 
were  lying  Hat  on  their  hellies,  exp<^cting  that  in  case 
we  did  not  get  a  chance  at  the  stag,  Avhich  from  all 
appearances  had  the  finest  head  of  an}'  we  had  thus 
far  seen  or  killed,  they  might  stop  him  as  he  was 
coming  their  way. 

The  herd  was  scattered  ahout  promiscuously,  Avhile 


m 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


11.25 


1.4 


IM 

2.2 

12.0 

1.6 


^. 


/A 


^jv# 


7 


MM 


ts 


\ 


184 


CARinor   HIIOOTINC    IX    XEWFOrNDLANI). 


the  .stai*'  would  walk  slowly  along  for  iwciity-fivo 
or  thirty  yards,  then  stop  for  two  or  threo  ininutes 
apparently  to  lest,  paying  no  attention  to  his  sur- 
roundings. In  the  meantime  we  had  succeeded  ii\ 
getting  to  the  edge  of  the  coyer  just  as  lie  stoi)ped  on 
a  httle  hunnnock,  with  his  great  white  broadside  to- 
ward us.  I  had  just  time  to  get  the  cross  hues  located 
by  ([uick  work,  fearing  that  he  would  start  again,  and 
thereby  inchice  our  friends  to  shoot  in  case  they  were 
in  range.  At  the  report  of  the  gun  he  twitched,  shook 
his  massiye  head,  turned  S(|uare  round  to  the  right, 
and  walked  briskly  down  the  hill  about  two  rods, 
when  he  stopi)ed,  offering  a  (piartering  shot,  which  he 
got  promptly  —  the  second  ball  entering  his  right  side 
just  back  of  his  right  front  leg,  and  lodging  just  under 
the  skin  at  the  point  of  the  left  shoulder,  breaking 
him  down.  Distance,  150  yards.  As  soon  as  he  fell 
tlie  two  concealed  hunters  broke  coyer  and  came  run- 
ning at  full  speed,  shouting  like  Comanches  after  a 
successful  ambush.  After  the  post  mortem  the  jury 
agreed  without  a  dissenting  yr)ice  upon  the  following 
verdict : 

1st.  That  the  deceased  had  the  largest  and  finest 
head  they  had  eyer  seen. 

2d.  That  he  would  ^veigh  not  less  than  000  pounds. 

3d.  That  he  had  a  just  right  to  the  title  of 


THE    "EMPEROR." 


185 


"THE  EMPEKOIi,"   (See baok  cover). 

and  that  kings  and  otlier  potentates  were  beneath  liini 
in  all  respects,  and  likely  to  remaui  there.  Here  are 
his  antler  nieasnriMnents  : 

Length  of  right  beam  from  hair  to  tip 42    Inches. 

Length  of  k'ft  beam  from  hair  to  tip 41^ 

Tip  to  tip :J2j 

Spread,  centre  to  centre ST] 

Circumference  of  right  beam  at  hair (5 

Circumference  of  left  beam  at  liair UA 

Points  on  right  liorn -'{2  ^ 

Points  on  k^ft  liorn 1  ."> ) 

Breadth  of  right  palm 7-\ 

lireadth  of  left  palm (J^ 

Circumference  of  entire  rack 11  feet  '.> 

Diameter  of  space  occupied  by  rack. .4    " 

Several  old  Indian  jnid  Newfoundland  hunters  who 
saw  this  head  were  unanimous  in  the  (j|)inion  that 
they  had  never  seen  a  more  perfect  or  larger  one;  and 
the  writer  is  free  to  sav  tiiat  he  believes  it  is  to-day 
the  largest  and  n\ost  [)erfect  woodland  caribou  head 
in  America,  l)asing  his  opinion  on  specimens  carefully 
examined  wherever  an  o[)portunitv  was  offered,  in- 
cluding those  at  the  Columbian  Exposition  and  the 
Sportsman's  Exhibition  recently  held  in  Madison 
Square  Garden,  Xew  York. 

13 


a 


a 


a 


1 8() 


CAIMI'.OI-    SIIOoriNC    I\    MIWI'OINDI.ANI). 


I.K    lUl  FK    AM)    TIIK    KMI'KKOK. 


\jV  lUifli;  and  the  wi'itcr  took  careful  nieasureiiients 
of  tlie  "Ein[)i'i-or,"  as  woU  as  several  })hotoi2;ra[)lue  nega- 
tives, when  we  removed  the  skin  and  carried  it  to  tlie 
Lookout  while  the  Kid,  coac^hed  by  Ke])ler.  shpped 
up  u})on  and  killed  a  very  tine,  unusually  white  stag 
which  they  found  feeding  in  an  opei:  .)r  clear  patch 
in  a  clump  of  Jack-pines,  not  more  than  a  mile  from 
our  temporary  camp.  'I'his  com])leted  his  score,  and 
he  was  well  satisfied  with  his  (irst  attcnnpt  at  large 
game  shooting,  as  the  walls  of  his  residence  in  Bur- 
lington, N.  J.,  will  Hnely  illustrate,  and  where  all 
sportsmen  will  be  heartily  welcomed  by  ''The  Kid." 


j 


oil:  t>r<>'i'.\   ni;ak'i,>'   1:11.1. i:1). 


IS- 


Siiinhii/.  (h-lolxr  JSlli.  'I'hci'iiioiiK'tcr  .■'»'):  Iii,L;ii 
wind  tVoin  west.  Startc*!  to  coinplcic  skiniiiiii;'  out 
the  dcci'.  clcauin,!;'  up  the  Iicnds  and  carryiii,!:'  tlicin  (o 
the  Lookout  ready  tor  tlic  carriers,  who  wei'e  e.\|)e('ted 
ill  tlie  inoiMiint;'.  Sighted  a  herd  ot"  i\v{'V.  eoiiiinu'  on 
til"  main  trail,  which  passed  thi'ou.i;h  the  openin,i;' 
wliere  most  of  our  specimens  in  this  section  were 
killed.  Le  liulH'  and  the  writer  succee(led  in  reach- 
iuii"  a  scrul)l)V  cedar  neai"  wliere  the  deer  crossed  the 
water-way  which  .•<ej)arate<l  the  open  sloju'  from  the 
harreii  hills  further  west. 


i 


THK    FKKT    OF    THK    KNU'KKOK. 


i 


188 


CAiniJor  SHOOTING  in  Ni:\vn>rNhL.\Ni). 


THi;    ALTHOK    AND    HIS    PKIZK,    THE    KMPKKOH. 


Wo  had  just  dropped  on  our  knees  when  tlie  does 
and  young  stags  l)egau  to  file  past  witliin  tliirty  yards 
of  us,  and  as  usual  an  old  stag  brought  u})  tlie  rear  in 
company  Avith  a  fine  an  tiered  doe  separating  just  he- 
fore  they  eanie  up  —  the  stag  passing  to  our  left  about 


rin:i'Ai:iN<;   ruoi-niKs  for  Ti.'AXspoirrATioN. 


18<) 


thii'tv  vards  and  the  doc  about  tlic  same  distaiUH'  to 
tlic  ri,iilit,  wIhtc  most  of  tlic  herd  liad  just  |)ass(3d. 
Tlu'V  walked  slowly  along,  stoj)i)ing  ovcry  now  and 
tlicn.  and  as  tlicv  approached  to  a  point  nearly  on  a 
line  with  us  we  could  examine  their  antlei's  carefully, 
iiC  Butle  examininii'  the  staj:;  )  i  the  left,  while  tlio 
writer  sci'utini/ed  the  doe  on  the  rigiit.  Both  had 
})crfect  antlers:  in  short,  they  were  just  what  wc 
wanted.  When  this  was  decided  I  covered  care- 
fully the  stag  on  my  left,  tired  and  killed,  then 
swung  mv  ^•un  round  to  mv  riuiit  and  before  tlie 
doe  could  recoN'cr  from  her  surprise  1  had  made  a 
double  and  both  of  the  magnificent  deer  were  dead 
almost  at  our  feet.  We  broke  cover  aiul  the  rest  of 
the  hei'd  gallo[)ed  oti'  at  a  nite  that  would  do  credit 
to  a  broncho  under  a  cowboy. 

The  l^alance  of  the  <lay  was  spent  in  getting  our 
trophies  in  sha})e  tor  the  carriers,  who  were  expected 
in  the  morning  at  an  earlv  hour. 

Monddi/,  (k-fohcr  JOfli.  Thermometer  oO;  windy. 
As  the  principal  actor  in  a  drama  is  not  the  best 
judge  of  the  l)lay,  the  writer  will  give  way  to  Mr. 
Kepler's  notes  of  the  day  : 

"  Morning  crisp  and  cold,  and  made  our  blood 
tingle  as  we  broke  quarter-inch  ice  and  Avashed  in  the 
little  pond  just   ijelow  our  temporary  camp.     While 


mm 


-w^ffr 


V.H) 


CAini'.()l-    SIlUOTINVi    IN    NKWFOINDLAM). 


'' bilinij:;  tlic  kitllc"  wc  s[)itMl  a  bi,^  sla.i;'.  and  as  the 
Doctor  was  entitled  to  one  sta^:;  niore.  lie  and  !>('  I'nlle 
went  ont  to  tlu,'  marsli  aftei*  liini.  Tiiey  inti'i'cepted 
liini  all  I'iii'ht,  lait  as  all  heads  were  now  nieasure(l  hy 
the  ''  iMnperor's"  he  was  allowed  to  pass  by.  After 
finishinj;'  breakfast  we  (jonehided  {n  pack  np  and  vv- 
turn  to  onr  main  (;anip,  and  make  ready  to  tnrn  onr 


LEAVING  UKANDKATHER  S  LOOKOUT. 


LEAVING   GKANDFATIIEli'S    LOOKOl'T. 


1 1)  1 


faces  towtinl  salt  water.  Williams  and  Sanders  had 
just  arrived  to  lielp  ean-v  out.  nnd  after  all  hands  had 
loaded  uu  witli  all  thev  thouuht  thev  eould  earrv,  we 
i^ot  under  wav  ahout  10  A.  AT.,  struni;-  out  in  reiiular 
Indian  fashion,  headed  foi-  the  l)ig]\Farsli — fre(|Uently 
sto[)ping  ou  the  way  to  I'est.  talk  and  live  over  the 
great  s})ort  we  had  enjoyed  in  the  locality  we  had  just 
left. 

''When  ahout  halfway  to  camp  and  just  as  we 
were  rounding  a  point  of  one  of  the  many  wooded 
islands  in  the  marsh,  Indian  Jim,  who  was  in  the  lead, 
tin'cw  down  his  pack,  drop|)ed  to  his  knees,  and  sung 
out,  'Oh!  I  see  deer.'  And  there  in  full  view,  ahout 
300  yards  distant,  was  a  herd  of  aVjout  thirty.  Some 
v/ere  lying  down,  others  feeding,  and  a  few  seemingly 
on  the  alert  for  danger — notably  several  barren  does. 
Among  them  were  two  fine  stags,  one  with  a  beauti- 
ful pair  of  antlers  towering  above  the  rest  as  they 
gleamed  in  the  bright  sunlight.  As  there  were  seven 
of  us  in  the  party  we  had  to  he  parti('ularly  careful 
liot  to  attract  their  attention ;  so  we  quickly  crawled 
into  the  edge  of  a  little  thicket  close  by  for  cover. 
'Who  wants  a  stag?'  said  Le  BufFe.  'I  do,'  said  the 
Doctor ;  '  you  and  the  Kid  take  cover  to  the  right,  ct 
below  them,  and  I  wall  shoot  the  best  one  as  they  run 
past  us.'     'Follow  me  close,  then,'  said  Ta'  Bufie,  and 


1!)2 


CAinnor    SM(K>'IMN(;    in    NKWI'orNDLANI). 


tli(»  two  start('<l  on  a  circle,  wliilc  \vc  all  stood  within 
a  few  feet  of  each  (jtlici-  and  enjoyed  watcthin.j;'  the 
hunters  and  jj,anie  from  our  (concealment.  'Phev  had 
<;'ood  cover  most  of  the  way.  and  fair  footin.n',  l)Ut  in 
order  to  ^"et  within  fail*  rani:,'e  had  to  <io  some  ch^so 
work  ;  hut  finally  they  succeeded  in  worming  them- 
selves throuuh  the  marsh  and  chai)arral  to  the  edge 
of  cover  nearest  the  deer. 

'' At  this  Jun(;tuiv  we  noticetl  that  the  l)i,ii' stai;"  sus- 
pected somethinii"  wrouLi'.  as  he  tossed  his  head  in  th(3 
air  and  faced  the  point  from  which  we  e:'j)ected  to 
see  smoke  followed  hy  a  I'cport  of  the  Kid's  .i;un.  '  If 
John  shoots  at  that  fellow  and  misses  him,  and  he 
comes  this  way.  1  will  down  him  sure  —  see  if  1 
don't,'  sai<l  the  DoctoJ',  as  he  settled  himself  and 
fondled  his  Winchester.  A  moment  later  the  Ivid 
lired  and  scored  a  miss.  Instantlv  the  whole  herd 
were  in  motion  and  on  the  alert;  hut  not  sure  from 
whence  tlie  noise  came  they  a[)})eared  uncertain  as  to 
what  direction  to  run;  but  another  shot  and  au'^ther 
miss  put  them  in  a  full  run,  and  as  was  sup])()sod 
right  in  (^ur  direction.  'Now/  said  the  Doctor,  'I 
will  show  him  he  can't  fool  with  me  like  he  did  with 
the  Kid.' 

"What  a  beautiful  sight,  as  they  rushed  })ast  at  full 
speed  about  eighty  yards  distant,  in  the  open  marsh. 


^■■■■r 


KXIIIHITION    STAli. 


l'.)3 


I 


J 


. 


KXIIIBITION    8TA(J. 


1!M 


(".\iai'.(»r  sii(K)TfN(;  in  \E\VK(»rNi>f.ANn. 


'Here  lie  coincsl*  \v;is  shouted  l>y  Jill.  l>an^i;!  wont 
the  I  )()('t()r's  ,i;im,  and  down  wcnl  llu;  stajj;;  l)nt  up 
ai-ain  in  an  instant  and  undci'  wa\'  with  the  rest  of 
tlic  licrd.  JJan.i;!  a.^ain  went  tlic  rifle,  and  down  lio 
went  i)i'oni])tly  as  Itelore;  hut  full  (  '"  game,  the  nohle 
animal  struggled  to  his  feet,  hut  only  had  tiuK^  to 
n>ake  a  few  wiekeil  jumps  when  the  Doctor  hit  Inn) 
the  tl.  rd  time,  the  h;dl  passing  through  his  s[)ine. 
All  present  agreed  that  it  was  the  finest  exhi])ition  ot 
ritle  marksmanshi[)  in  the  Held  they  had  ever  seen, 
and  congratulations  were  the  order  of  the  day." 

We  secured  the  heautiful  head  of  the  "Exhibition 
Stag,"  and  took  up  our  line  of  niarch  for  camp,  where 
we  arrived  in  good  shape  before  night,  well  satisfied 
with  our  trip  to  ( grandfather' s  Lookout. 

Ttu'sdaij,  Odohcr  oOth.  Thermometer  25;  windy. 
To-day  all  hands  busy  skinning  out  iieads  and  get- 
ting them  ready  for  tra.  ^portation.  Sent  two  car- 
riers out  to  head  of  West  Pond  with  heavy  loads  of 
lieads,  antlers  and  head  skins,  topped  olf  ^^'ith  such 
articles  of  household  and  kitchen  furniture  as  we 
could  spare.  These  faithful  men  left  camp  with  their 
heavy  loads  about  sunrise,  and  returned  to  camp  just 
at  dark  the  same  day. 

Wednesday,  October  31st.  Thermometer  32;  clear. 
All  busy  taking  care  of  our  trophies.     No  hunting 


Ki:iM,i:i:s  si'i:cimi:ns. 


It)" 


<1()IU',  tlioui;'!)  (|uit('  ;i  ninnlx'i'  <>1"  deer  were  seen  ci'osH- 
ing  tlic  lii.ii'  Marsli.     This  was  n  cliiin.nn;^  day. 

^l/nirs(hii/,  \<)r(iiil>(i'  hf.  'riicrmoiiictci'  .'5'i;  clear. 
As  tlic  writer  was  eiitilK'd  l(MHie  more  doe.  and  was 
desirous  of  seein'inm"  a  fawn  if  possible  to  ('oni|>lete  his 


KEPLEK  S    SPECIMENS. 


family  of  reindeer,  viz.,  "The  Em[)eror,"  cow,  '^ Ex- 
hibition Stag,"  and  five-months'  old  calf — all  hands 
took  a  w^alk  to  the  Soutli  Hills,  when?  the  Kid  and 
Indian  Jim  had  their  red-letter  day,  where  the  author 
fortunately  killed  a  fawn  which  completed  his  family 
of  specimens  as  sliown  on  front  cover  page.  We 
found  where  a  large  bear  had  eaten  lialf  of  one  of  the 


iF 


lUO 


CAUIHor   SHOOTING   IN    NEWFOUNDLAND. 


'A 


■f. 


C 


X 


1 1      HWWWii 


BACK    TO  SALT   WATKK'. 


I';)' 


stajijs  killed  l)y  {\\v  Kid,  and  had  draii'gcd  tlio  <»Teat 
deer  several  feet,  showing  that  he  must  have  been  of 
good  size.  The  conditions  were  viM'v  favorable  for  a 
forty-|)ound  trap  and  about  three  days'  time  which 
without  doubt  would  have  furnished  some  more  8[)ort 
and  a  tine  pelt. 

Fi'iddi/,  Xorcnihcr  .J<L  Thermometer  32:  clear. 
Sent  the  carriers  out  with  three  loads.  All  han<ls 
working  on  skins  and  heads,  getting  ready  to  go  out 
on  Sunday.  Scattered  deei'  in  sight  all  day.  "Deer 
on  the  mash"'  causes  no  excitement  now;  three 
weeks  ago  things  wei-e  ditlerent.  Then  everv  fellow 
gral)bed  his  gun,  got  the  other  fellows"  boots  or  shoes 
on,  and  ran  with  bated  breath  to  the  v(\\i^('  of  covei*. 

Suite'  n/,  Aorciiihcr  4fh.  Tlu'rmon>"ter  35;  raining, 
Imt  cleared  oti' beautifully,  and  at  *J  A.  .M.,  aftei'  cach- 
ing the  stove  and  most  of  our  kitchen  furniture,  we 
bade  adieu  to  our  cam))  on  the  liig  Marsh  and  turned 
our  faces  toward  salt  water,  arriving  at  our  cache  one 
and  a-half  miles  west  of  the  head  of  West  Pond  at  4 
P.  M.,  where  we  cami)e(l  for  the  night. 

Monday,  Noremher  'tfJi.  'I'hermometer  33;  windy. 
[jiitl  cam})  at  8.30  A.  M.,  and  soon  rea(*hed  the  head 
of  W^st  Pond  with  whole  outfit.  Owing  to  the  higli 
wind,  ^:he  water  was  so  rough  that  we  were  detained 
about  two  hours,   regarding  the  trip  hazardous  with 


n)(S  CAiniUH     S1I(>()TIN(;    IN    M';\Vl()rM)I.AM). 


HUG(}rN(r    THE    SOUTH    SHORE    <)E    W  .,ST    I'ONI). 


^V|- 

^ 

■ 

wk 

^Kfl 

tii  li^Mi 

li 

M 

H| 

^H 

ill 

nd^^H 

■ 

S 

|H| 

m 

P 

r* 

B^^i^^^R'" ' 

■ 

/^^i^^^dO^^^^^^H 

^ni 

^^^1 

^^H 

^HH 

■ 

fSSt^'^^' 

— ^^ 

fl 

H 

■ 

STUCK    OX    THE    KOCKS    AT    DEVILS    ELHOW. 


NO    MAIL    V\Hm    HO.A'i:. 


11)1) 


our  heavily-ladcii  (/anoos.  l^^inally  madc^  ihv  i\n)i  of 
tlic'  pond  in  safety  l)y  luiggin^u'  tlic  south  sliore,  and 
after  cxperiencin,!!:  some  ditticulty  at  tlic  ''Devil's  VA- 
bow,'  on  ^Vest  Tond  Brook  l)et\veen  tlu^  foot  of  the 
pond  and  the  head  of  llalTs  Uay,  arriving  at  our 
guide's  cabin  at  ^)  i*.  M. 

Mere  we  met  a  disa})pointnient  at  not  reetMving  let- 
ters from  home,  which  confirmed  our  suspicions  as  to 

MISTAKE    NO.  ."). 

From  some  correspondence  had  with  a  Mr.  White, 
mail  agent  between  W'hitbourne  and  the  terminus  of 
the  railroad,  we  were  induced  to  cause  our  mail  to  be 
directd  to  his  care,  supposing  that  tliere  was  a  mail 
route  from  Norris'  Arm,  via.  PilU^v's  Island,  to  the 
Hall's  Bay  postofHce,  and  that  we  would  thus  receive 
mail  as  often  as  we  could  send  out  to  the  head  of  the 
bay.  In  consecpience  of  this  mistake,  we  had  no 
word  from  home  from  the  day  we  sailed  until  our 
return.  Our  folks  had  telegi'ams  from  us,  however, 
from  Halifax,  St.  John's  and  Pilley's  Island  on  our 
way  north,  and  on  our  return  to  I  Alley's  Island  on 
our  homeward  journev. 

Sportsmen  visiting  this  country  will  do  well  to  Ije- 
ware  of  inducements  held  out  to  go  via.  the  railroad 
from  St.  John's.     If  tine  sport  and  large  antlers  are 


isai 


20(J 


CAJaiJor  sjiooTiN(;  i\  Newfoundland. 


(Icsiml,    "follow  your   leader  and    fear   no    dan^vi-." 
Take  the  Si/rin  at    Xcw   York  direct  for   Pilley's   Is- 
land.    JIave    your    mail   matter  dii'eeted    in   care   of 
Richard    Lc   I>„dfc,   to   Hall's   Bay   [\  ().,  Wolf  (Vovc. 
Notre  J)ame  Hay,  X.  F..  and  Mrs.  lirown,  the  affid>le 
I)0stmistre.ss,  and   her  dau.uhters  will   as  opportunity 
offers  send  them  to  Mr.  Le  i>>ulle\s  ranch,  where  they 
ean  be  called  for  by  the  carriers  as  tiny  have  occasion 
to  return  to  the  cache  at  the  head  of  West  Pond.     Ar- 
rangements can  also  be  made  with  Mi-.  Jlerbert.  the 
gentlemanly  ])ostmaster  at   l^dhy's,  to  send   any  im- 
portant    telegrams    to   the  camp   on   the   13ig   Marsh. 
The  telegraph  oHice  foi-  this  section   is  not  at  VlUvy's. 
but  a  few  miles  further  north,  at    Little   P>ay  Mine, 
and  ten  words  cost  11.75  to  Philadel])hia,  Vi\.,  {\  S.  A. 
Tiu'sihui,  Noirmhcr  ath.     Tliei-monu^er  81 :  threaten- 
ing.     Le  P>utfe,  Indian  Jim  and   the  writer  left  at   an 
early  liour  for  Wolf  (\,ve,  six   miles  up  the  bav.  in  a 
small  rowboat,  to  secui-e  a  sailing  yacht  to  convey  us  to 
Pilley's  Island;   while  Kep  and  the  Kid  un])acke(l  the 
head  skins,  verilied  the  tags  or  labels  on  each  and  ar- 
ranged them  in,  over  and  about  Le  P>uffe\s  storehouse, 
which  stood  on  the  edge  of  tlip  bank  fronting  the  cabin. 
In  this  connecti  jn  it  might  be  well  to  state  that  it  is  im- 
portant   that    every    specimen    should    be    earefully 
marked  and  numbered,  and  for  that  ])urpose  the  wri- 


How    TO   TACK    SPI'.CIMKNS. 


•201 


CrRING    THK    TIIDKS    AND    HEADS    AT    LK   HIFFK  S    STOHKirorsE. 

tvv  was  i)n'pai'('(l  witli  good  strong  pajuT  tags  witli 
eyelets,  similar  to  tlujse  used  ])y  (.'xpi'css  ('oinpanies 
and  general  shippers  of  niercliandise.  These  tags  if 
plainly  marked  with  a  lead  })en('il.  will  resist  moisture 
iniu'h  l)ett(n-  than  ink,  and  no  diftieulty  will  i)e  ex- 
j)erieneed  from  getting  the  specimens  mixed  up.  A\^(^ 
retui'ned  hv  .*>  V.  M.,  with  the  vaeht,  in  a  storm  of 
rain  and  wind;  and  in  conse<juenee  of  this  tlu're  was 
but  little  accomplished  except  securing  a  means  of 
transportation  up  tlu^  bay  to  I'illey's  Island. 

14 


2(  )2 


CAlilUol     Sll()()TIN(;    IN    NK\Vr()rNJ)LANI). 


WnhHsdiiij  Xorciiihd-  nh.  'PhcnnonK'tcr  ;^2 ;  hlow- 
in.ii' a  tcrriiic  .ualc  from  tlic  iioi'tliwcst  all  day.  Maii- 
a.ucd  to  l<'a(l  sonic  of  our  plunder;  hiit  as  tlic  wator 
was  so  wild  that  it  was  with  ditliculty  tliat  we  kept 
the  yacht  from  dra.uiiiiiii  her  ancliors,  the  idea  ot 
sailin.ii'  was  ahanduned  until  the  storm  was  ahated. 

Thiirsdai/.  Xoreriibrr  Sfh.  Thermometer  o'i;  clear 
and  pleasant.  As  tlie  troubled  waters  had  subsided, 
we  set  sail  at  an  early  liour  au'l  arrived  at  Pilley's  at 
12  ^l.,  in  i»ood  shape,  where  we  were  welcomed  by 
Mr.  Herbert,  with  wh(»m  we  eniiaiivd  (piarters  until 
our  ship  should  sail.  After  settlinj;-  with  our  yacht 
captain  aud  the  hands  necerisary  to  run  the  same,  we 
found  that  the  whole  l)ill  footed  u[)  |o0.00 — Just 
|20.0(l  more  than  it  should  liave  cost  us.  had  we  done 
as  it  -  to  be  lioped  others  will,  vi/..  engage  ('apt. 
Colbm-n  to  meet  them  at  the  head  of  Hall's  Bay 
Avith  the  yijfk'ni  on  a  certain  day.  and  make  it  a 
point  to  ]}v  there  ready  to  embark.  This  was  mistake 
No.  (). 

We  at  once  proceeded  to  pack  our  trophies  foi- 
transixn-tation,  and  were  materially  assisted  by  Mr. 
Herbert,  who  furnished  three  large  [)acking  i)oxos 
into  which  we  packed  our  heads,  headskins,  tent  and 
other  large  articles  which  we  would  not  need  on  th<5 
vovau'e  home. 


ittki 


AT    ITLLEY'S    ISLAND   A(;AIN. 


•_>():*> 


WK   WANT   TO   (lo    noMK. 

Tlic  lu'xt  ((Ucstioii  tit  (listiirl*  our  sIiiiiiIk'I's  was. 
when  would  we  li'ct  a  N'csscl  ^oiuii'  south  ?  'Tliu 
slvanuT  Arahm.  a  lar.u'c  l']u.iiiisli  vessel  (See  cut.  |)a,uv 
25)  kuowu  as  a  trauip  lu'lonLiiu.ij,"  to  the  IUmM'toss 
Liue,  eouuiianded  hy(a|)t.  i*].  M.  ('ox,  was  l()a<liu,L;- 
pyrites  tor  Uostou.  The  steamer  Si/rla.  u|)ou  which 
we  ex[)ecte(l  to  sail  Idr  New  ^'n^k.  was  looked  toi- 
daily;  hut  inasmuch  as  she  could  not  load  till  the 
Andon  left  her  dock,  we  heii'an  at  once  to  open 
negotiations  with  ('apt.  ('ox  to  land  us  in  I)Osto!i  on 
oiu"  home  trip,  tor  which  point  he  expected  to  sail 
direct  not  latei'  than  'I'uesday.  the  thirteenth,  which 
would  get  us  home  at  least  live  days  ahead  of  the  Silr'ni. 

l')'i(J(ii/,  X()i'(  ihIk  r  !>fh.  Thermometer  ;')■_? :  cleai*  and 
pleasant.  This  was  a  lovely  day.  Spent  a  \-erv  ])leas- 
ant  e\'ening  with  (apt.  ('ox  at  Mr.  llerhert's  in  com- 
pany with  friends  of  the  family,  playing  Nap  and  lis- 
tening to  tine  nuisie  rendered  hy  Mr.  Ilerhei't  and  his 
estimable  wife  and  daughter.  Finished  packing  our 
trophies,  and  received  a  final  answer  from  (Ai[)t.  ('ox, 
wlio  aiireed  to  take  us:  hut  as  he  was  not  allowed  to 
provide  aeeomnuxlations  for  passengers,  he  said  it 
would  he  necessary  for  us  to  shi[)  as  seamen  at  one 
shilling  a  dav,  and  i)av  one  dollar  a  day  each  for  om* 
board,  with  the  verbal   understanding  that  we  should 


201 


CAKllJOr    SIlOOTINCi    IN    NKWFOrNDLAND. 


desert  the  sliip  at  liostnu.  (  )iii'  four  days'  wait  at 
rilley's  Island  wei'e  pleasantly  spent,  and  would  have 
J)een  nnieh  niore  eniovahle  had  it  not  heen  tor 

MlSTAKi:  NO.  7. 

We  had  left  oiH'  trnidvs  at  St.  .lolnTs  which  con- 
tained onr  travelling"  clothes,  as  well  as  some  presents 
for  the  loved  ones  at  lionie.  However,  we  had  pre- 
})ai'ed  a  letter  of  instructions  to  one  of  our  many  new- 
made  friends  at  St.  John's.  Mr.  .1.  \>.  ll(>wson.  l^s(|.. 
to  forward  our  1  ta.upi.u'e.  While  in  our  (quandary,  on 
the  elexi'Uth  the  Sl/rla  steame*!  in. 


THE   sn.viA   wArriX(i    in   pillky  s   island   haruok. 


"^ twn 


Tin:  vovA(;i:  iiomk 


•20.') 


(  hi  the  ritli  our  cases — one  coiitaiiiiii.L:  live  {)airs  of 
antlers  and  live  licadskins,  directed  to  tliat  master 
of  his  |>rofession,  Mr.  A.  11.  Wood,  taxidei-iiiist,  of 
Painted  I'ost.  N.  ^^;  one  to  ,1.  W.  havis,  r>urlini:toii. 
N.  .1..  and  the  third  to  the  writv'i'  at  Lancaster,  Pa., 
wer<'  showed  away  in  tlie  liold  of  tlie  i;reat  steel 
steamer.  toLictlier  with  )).0(MI  tons  of  ])vrites  ore;  tlie 
liatclies  were  clamped  down,  and  on  Tuesday  morn- 
ing:', just  as  we  were  al)out  to  hoist  anchor,  the  coast 
steamer  I'lruiuin  L<iL(  Iha'c  in  siiiht,  hound  for  St. 
John's.  Thinii's  were  heiiinninii'  to  he  int(a'estin<i'.  It 
would  i'e<[uire  tln'ee  days  to  load  the  Sl/ria  ([)erha|)S 
foiu').  and  three  days  for  tlie  ]lr(/iiil(i  Lal-c  to  I'cach 
^^t.  .lolin's.  Mr.  Ke})ler.  always  maiinanimous.  and 
full  of  ways  and  means  as  Newfoundland  is  of 
carihou.  [)tarinipui  and  codlish,  said  as  he  stood  upon 
the  dock:  "Well.  hoys,  thou^uh  we  have  made  ar- 
ran.Li'eiiieiits  for  ha\in,u'  our  ha,u;i;a,u'e  forwarded  to  New 
York,  your  time  at  home  is  more  \aluahle  than  mine; 
vou  JKU'e  ])usiness  to  look  afU'i'.  1  have  none;  J  will 
li'o  on  the  Vii'<iiiii(i  L(i/''(  to  St.  .John's,  and  he  re.idv 
for  the  S'\}r'n\  wlieii  she  comes,  and  we  will  he  sure 
nothing  will  happen  to  our  haggage.  1  will  ncjt  re- 
port for  (hitv  on  the  Ara/oii,  then  I  need  not  desert 
at  Boston."  We  exchanged  hon-V(>yage,  and  hoth 
.>^hips  sailed  out  of  the  harhor  at  the  same  time. — he 


2iH) 


L\\i\\\n\     Sl|()(>riN(i    IN    M:\\  rolNDLAM). 


ptiiii;'  ^ontli  .iinl  we  iiortli.  tlii-ouiiii  tlic  Sii-ait-  n\' 
r>('ll('  Isle.  illollLi"  -tlic  sIhu'cs  of"  L;il>r;i<l<»r.  wliicli  wt'i-r 
('ovi'i'cd  witli  snow.  ;iii(l  ('oiiipJvtcly  .•n'oimd  the  west 
coast  of  New  roiindlaiKl,  tliroii.iili  tlic  <  lull' of  St.  I»i\v- 


co.vsr    ()!•'    LAi'.K.\i)<»K    .\s    si:i;n'    iH()>r    siiir    in    stkaits    ok 
HKi.i.K    isi.K    oi'i'o.^rn',    amoik's    point. 


iHMicc,  past  (ape  lircton  Island,  across  the  Way  ot* 
Fiiiidv,  and  down  to  IJoston.  wlici'c  wc  ai'ri\('(l  at  <S 
I*.  M.,  Monday.  Xovcinhcr  I'Jth.  lSt)4.  The  iX'st  ot* 
the  ioiirnev  home  was,  of  course,  an  everv-da\'  att'air. 
jMv.  I\e[)lei'  had  a  j)leasant  vova,i;e.  arrivin,Li'  four  days 
Uiter. 


UARrTs  or  Tin:  (.\i:in<»i  . 


20" 


tin:  (  .\i»'IH(U     AM)   Ills   II Mills. 

TliDiiuli  tlic  |>rt'C('(liii_ii'  pjiucs  liUNc  iii>t  liccii  written 
tVniii  llic  standpoint  citlKT  of  historian  or  natnralist, 
it  may  not  itc  considered  amiss  to  note  in  detail  some 
of  tlie  lial>its  of  the  nohle  name  wliieh  formed  the 
principal  snltject  of  the  work,  and  le<l  the  author  and 
his  friends  to  \isil  the  distant  island. 

The  N<»rtli  .\merican  <  arilxni.  WnKi'iJri'  'DirfDuhis, 
is  tjie  oidy  niemhei-  of  ihe  deei"  family  whose  females 
liavt'  liorns.  This  peculiarity  has  le(l  to  the  imju'c^s- 
sion  with  many  that  '///  doe  carihou  |)ossess  these  ap- 
pendaii'es.  which  is  fai'  from  hein.ii'  correct — the  fact 
heinji'  that  such  ai'e  the  exceptions,  not  the  rule. 
W'hih'  we  saw  duriui:'  our  stay  in  the  White  Hills 
ovei"  nine  Innah'ed  of  these  nohle  aniniaN  l»y  actual 
count,  we  were  at  one  time  fearful  that  all  would  not 
iioX  a  specimen  of  tlie  female  hearin^i;"  horns.  Like  the 
stag's,  tliey  shed  their  hoi'us  once  a  year,  thouiih  much 
later  in  the  season.  Tlieir  antlers  arc  usually  (|uite 
reirular.  and  ahout  the  same  si/.e  in  all  specimens. 
The  carii)ou  is  powerfully  huilt,  with  deep  hroad 
shouldia's.  short  neck,  short  clean  larii'e-honed  lei;s 
and  hroad  feet.  In  th<'  late  fall  and  winter  they  an^ 
almost  white,  with  hluish  spots  on  the  sides  which 
Lrive  them  a  dappled  gray  u})pearance.  The  hair  is 
finer,  more  Hexihle  and  less  l)rittle  than   tiiat  of  any 


2(  IS 


(AIMFlor  SllonTINd    IN    NKWForNDI.AND. 


IJ 


other  inoiiilx'i'  ol"  llic  (lc(  r  thmilv,  and  iM'iicatli  the 
liaii"  is  a  lliick"  mat  of  I'lir.  Ucantit'iil  and  scrviccahlo 
rolu's  arc  made"  of  llic  skins. 

'I'lic  woodland  ('aril>on  arc  very  siiseeptilde  t<>  do- 
niestieatioi),  and  make  a  \alual»le  sul)stitnte  lor  do,ns 
in  drawinj;'  loads  o\-er  the  ice  and  snow.  '\1\>-  writer 
saw  a  yeai'lin.i;'  on  hoai'd  the  steaniei"  \'lrf/ini<i  LaLc 
wliieh  had  heen  eaptui'ed  in  lve(|  Indian  Lake  hiit 
ten  days  previous.  It  was  perfectly  tame  and  docile, 
and  took  food  from  the  hand  witliout  a  siiiii  of 
timidity. 

These  deer  wlien  friuhttjned  seldom  Jump  oi'  run, 
but  ^'o  oir  at  a  lively  gallop  until  the\  think  them- 
solve..  out  of  harm's  way.  when  thev  droi)  into  a  fast 
trot;  but  soon  sto}),  turn  half  round,  pi-i'scntin^  a 
l)roadsidc  to  the  point  from  which  they  were  fri^ht- 
(Mied,  and  in  a  miuute  or  two  ''about  face  "  and 
present  the  other  side.  W  not  entirely  satistied  as  to 
tlie  cause  of  their  alarm  they  will  often  slowlv  re- 
trace their  steps — led  usually  by  a  barren  doe — and 
thereby  get  themselves  into  trouble. 

Where  a  marsh  is  of  considerable  width,  throui;h 
which  seveial  trails  pass,  and  the  hunter's  conven- 
ience makes  it  desirable  that  the  deer  taki;  a  [)ar" 
ticular  path,  all  that  is  necessary  is  to  tie  a  hand- 
kerchief or  some  similar  object  to  the  end  of  a  stick 


IIAI'.ITS   OF   TFIK   CAKMUH  . 


2n!) 


'Jltli    the 

vic('al>lo 

1'  ti)  (In- 
fo r  (lojis 
i»-  writer 
in  I  I J  the 
lUkc  liiit 
1  docile, 
sii^n    of 

or  run, 
k  thciii- 
to  a  fast 
jiitin.u"  a 
I'  friii'ht- 
•e"  and 
t'd  as  to 
Dwh  ru- 
K — and 

tl.  rough 
coiivcn- 
L?  a  i)ar- 
a  liaiid- 
f  a  stick 


and  place  it  near  the  Juiictinii  of  (he  •leads."  When 
tJM'  luM'd  comes  along,  Mie  leadei-  soon  <liscovel"S  the 
Hag  and  gives  the  alai'i.j.  they  all  hue  thenist'lvcs  up, 
take  a  good  look  at  the  mysterious  lluttering  oi>ject. 
and  take  the  road  which  leads  to  daniicr. 

Their  senses  of  smell  and  hearing  ai'e  \-ery  acute, 
hut  theii"  \isi(ai  seems  defecti\('  in  ( Ustiniiuishiuii"  oh- 
jiM'ts.  If  a  man  in  a  dead-grass  colored  suit  stands 
perfectly  still  in  the  o|)en  marsh,  they  will  walk 
close  up  to  him  hefore  (a|)|»ai-ent  ly )  they  ai"e  ahle  to 
distinguish  him  from  a  stump  (tr  some  other  ohject. 
While  they  invariahly  pi-efei"  to  travel  ovei-  the  open 
mai'sh  or  harrens.  when  wounded  they  innnediateh' 
rini  for  covei":  and  once  within  a  Newfoundland 
thicket,  the  chances  are  ni  le  in  ten  thev  caiuiot  lu^ 
found. 

'riu^y  ai'e  very  tenacious  of  life,  and  the  missile 
nuist  sti'ike  eithei-  in  or  close  to  the  sj)ine  or  heart,  or 
through  hoth  shoulders,  as  otherwise  they  are  likely 
to  get  away.  The  calf  whose  head  is  shown  oi  over 
ran  three  hundred  yards  after  receiving  a  A<)-i'u)  hall 
through  the  hodyjust  hack  of  the  heart. 

Here  we  must  leave  the  carihou  to  the  furth(?r  ac- 
(juaintance  of  those  whose  fancy  leads  them  in  pur- 
suit of  the  nohler  game  of  our  continent.  The  lieads 
of  the  |)rincipal  specimens  mentioned  in  our  reeoi'd 


f 


210 


CAUIBOr   SHOOTING    IN   NEWFOrNDLANI). 


look  (U)\\]\  Upon  us  from  tlie  walls  of  our  homo,  re- 
iK'VviTig  daily  tlu'  pleasure  we  found  in  the  pursuit. 
(Jo  and  do  likewise. 


TPIE  MICMAC  INDIANS. 

As  reference  has  heen  made  in  the  preceding  (;haj)- 
ters  to  the  Micmacs  of  Newfoundland,  a  few'  words 
about  them  may  not  be  out  of  place,  as  tlu^y  are  the 
onlv  Indian  inliabitants.  'Phev  belong"  to  the  eastern 
branch  of  the  Algoncpiin  family,  representatives  of 
which  are  also  found  in  Nova  Scotia,  New  Brunswick 
and  Lower  Canada.  Some  thirty  families  of  them 
are  located  around  Hall's  Bay,  and  compose  about  all 
on  the  island.  They  live  in  houses  like  the  white  men, 
i^peak  a  little  broken  English,  cultivate  small  patches 
of  ground,  and  eke  out  a  Uvelihood  by  fishing  and 
luinting.  They  are  all  Boman  Catholics,  and  in  front 
of  their  cemetery  on  the  north  shore  of  Hall's  Bay  the 
cross  and  a  totem-pole  stand  side  by  side,  and  are 
guarded  with  jealous  care.  Many  of  these  people  are 
afHicted  with  tuberculosis  of  the  throat  and  lungs,  from 
wliich  cause  there  an;  a  number  of  deaths  every  year. 
Notwithstanding  his  attempts  at  civilized  life,  this 
member  of  the  aboriginal  race  is  moving  towards  the 
extinction  which  seems  to  be  the  fate  of  the  red  man 
in  every  portion  of  the  new  world. 


NEWFOUNDLAND'S  Fl  TUHE. 


211 


CONCLUSION. 

And  now,  about  to  lav  down  tlie  pen,  as  we  glance 
backward  hv  way  of  fai'cwell  to  tlie  little  hook,  there 
I'HJwd  upon  US  pleasant  reminiscences  of  tlie  ])e()ple 
among  whom  we  spent  those  autunm  days,  so  full  of 
pleasure  and  of  incident.  We  came  among  them 
.strangers,  w(^  left  them  fi'iends;  should  we  not  be 
tempted  back  again  by  the  recollection  of  this  visit, 
4it  least  the  friendships  formed  will  not  be  suffered  to 
lapse,  if  the  islanders  reciprocate  our  feeling  tow^ard 
tfiern,  as  we  have  every  reason  to  expect.  In  this 
feeling  is  an  element  of  sympathy  which  we  trust 
may  awaken  the  same  in  the  heart  of  the  reader. 
These  people  of  the  north  have  for  decades  been 
making  a  heroic  struggle  not  only  against  nature's 
forces,  but  against  tlie  colder  and  more  cruel  hand  of 
oppression,  moved  by  soulless  greed;  and  last  and 
worst,  against  the  corruption  among  tliemselves  in- 
ducted by  the  exiunple  set  them  in  their  treatment  by 
the  mother  country.  But  the  corruptionists  are  a 
small  minority ;  the  honest  masses  will  slough  them 
off,  a,nd  we  feel  safe  in  pnulicting  for  them  a  brighter 
future. 

What  are  the  grounds  of  our  belief?  First,  the 
seemingly  inexhaustible  bounty  of  nature  in  the 
waters  surrounding  them,  the  undeveloped  riches  of 


919 


..■■.«  •■ 


-f- 


CAK'IROI     SMOOTIXd    IN    NKWForXDLAMl 


Ho.l  and  miiHs  tlio  (elastic  spirit  shown  wImmvv.t  tl.^ 
smallest  ..pportunity  is  o-i,,,,  fnv  iinprovenuMit  un- 
<^^'i''it(.l  l,y  .vp(>at(.]  a],plic.ati(>ns  nf  tlie  KnolisI,  -w^.t 
»>U.nk(.t;'  an<l  last  an<l  most  promising,  th.  almost 
universal  desire  tor  free  institutions. 

Will  the  (leliveranee  eonx^   in  the  iorni  of  ainHva- 
tion  to  the  great  Anieriean    Repnl.lier     Sueh  i.  tlK^ir 
J'<>P^''^t",l   also   that  of  th(>  write...      I  k-   n.av  as   well 
c^ontess  here  that  a  eontJ.leration   of  American  states 
^^■*^"'  •••'^'^''•1^"'<1   <>v<T  to    IVhrino-  Straits,  an.l  south- 
.'""'■''  ^"^'4><'  IJ<H'n,.  would  he  none  too   hn-e   for    his 
'^';'^'''   '"•<  ''^'  ^-^'Hiot  hop(>tes(v  that,  sinee  the  vears 
of  Methuselah  are  no  lono,.r  vouehsafed  to  man.  ^  JUit 
he    is  not  so   sure  that  he    may  not    hold  out    Ion- 
('Hough  to  hunt  the  earihou  in  the  American  State  of 
Newfoundland. 

Wliether  we  shall  s(v  it  or  no,  l<>t  our  last  w<.rd  in 
taking  h.ivo  of  the  reader  exi,ress  onee  more  the  hoi,e 
that  instead  of  a  Kuropean  dependeney.  the  twentieth 
century  may  early  greet  our  friends  of  Xev.  foundland 
as  in  the  fullest  sense  American  citizens. 


r 


_^_^2Si 


'-^-"^^mmmmt 


yrv   the 

'lit.    Uii- 

^Ii  ••wet 

all  Host 

iiiK'xa- 
>  tli<'ir 
IS   well 

1  states 
soutli- 
"oi-  his 
'  Vcars 

I. 

r>ut 

loll-;- 
ati'  of 


JV(\  ill 
'  ho[)e 
iitii^tli 
Hand 


ir- 


HMH 


1 


